So, I just dropped off my Cervelo S2 to be built at my local shop cause I could not figure out the internal cable routing and didn't want to damage the frame. I know.. I fail

Anyhow, my question is about the steer tube. I need to get it cut, what is the best method of getting it cut without having a bike fit cause it costs 200 bucks and I don't wanna fork that over. I was thinking about just getting an inch cut and getting some spacers and playing around with the spacers until i find something comfortable before cutting it.

The headset is an integrated headset and needs to be boned in the steer tube with this glue that comes with it. Only problem is, I can't not bond it without cutting it... and if I cut it too big and bond it - am i screwed?

What is the popular censuses on BF about this? And is my logical flawed?

Thanks!

you bought a Cervelo S2 and dont want to pay $200 for a fit?

(A)How much is a fitting? (B)How much is a new fork? I bet the S2 fork is more than $200.

Never cut the tube unless your absolutely certain of fit. I rode with spacers on top of the stem to make sure I was comfortable for a couple hundred miles. When its time, I just used a piece of tape as a cut guide and used a fine tooth hacksaw. Ive cut carbon and aluminum that way. What do you mean about bonding an integrated set into the frame? Do you mean press fit? The steerer tube is independent of the headset. I personally would shell out $200 to get this done right. It seems from your post that you are not familiar with this HS/steerer tube system...

It's not that I don't want to pay for the fit, I want to get a proper fit but wanna ride right away and that would mean waiting until next months allowance. Might just do that.

Actually I am real familiar with headset ... and it's not pressed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AM34A5fbqrY

Yeah, I understand the fit. But even if i get fitted, it won't be 100% sure if it's the correct fit for me without riding ocuple hundred miles. My question was actually to cervelo owners on this, won't I need to bond it before riding it? and if i bond it, there is no going back?

It may better to leave your headtube a little too long than a little too short, although in truth you should be able to adjust your body to a slightly too short head tube, it shouldn't send you the the chiropracter.

Park makes a nice jig, that works with a hacksaw. For a carbon-fiber headtube, if I decided to cut it, I'd use a Dremel circular diamond saw with the jig. I've done really fine work with fragile easily fractured materials like abalone shells for jewelry. Not CF though, but it should give clean cuts. Maybe find a junked CF frame to experiment on first.

There's a strong argument to me made for taking to a reputable LBS that has CF-cutting experience. Especially if they have a uni-directional bandsaw, which seems to me to be preferable to a bi-directional hacksaw for making smooth cuts. If they screw it up, you should be able to demand new-fork replacement.

If you do it yourself, you're on your own. If you don't already own the tools, and if you don't see doing this again in the near future, the tools will cost you as much or more than the shop job. It shouldn't cost more than $30-50.

I don't think anyone understands the issue. The fork has an aluminum support tube with a star nut in it that must be epoxied into place. That tube must extend below the upper headset bearing (often overlooked). After many problems, the length of that support tube has been made longer. If the length is correct, it should allow the maximum 3-4cm of spacer and still have the end below the top headset bearing. If the steering tube needs to be cut shorter, that can be done and the star nut pushed further down.

One of the other problems was the limited star nut position. Trying to save weight was such an issue that the ID of the support tube was made larger at the bottom, so some people pushed the star nut down far enough that it went into the larger ID and would not hold. The whole design of these support tubes was screwed up, but has supposedly been fixed.

These steerers should never be used without the support tube epoxied in place or with the more common compression plug.

With the added work of star nuts and epoxy, I would definitely leave that job to a Cervelo dealer. Perhaps at least they can cut it and set it to the pre-built S2 height? Save your money and have it done the right way. I just paid my LBS $5 to use the right tools to hammer down a fork crown race. After trying myself for an hour, I stopped before I could do any real damage. Glad I did. There are some things that can't be done without the proper tools and know-how.

Apparently you do not understand either.

3t cervelo forks are a max of 95mm above the headtube - the sleeve itself is 75mm. It does not need to extend below anything, that unsupported 20mm is cervelo certified safe. The steerers would never be used without a compression plug or the epoxied factory sleeve so your last sentence is 100% irrelevant. The sleeve is not a critical to the integrity of the steer tube - but it reinforces it. Cervelo recommends using that sleeve after the length of the steer tube is determined - obviously with a compression plug installed for a short period.

Call 1-866-cervelo if you think i'm bull****ting.

Off topic for the OP: do you ride with the UH cycling club? If so, see you in the fall (provided they admit grad students).

I was thinking of the old Alpha-Q/Wolf forks, in which case what I've posted is accurate. All other brand I know of use thicker walls and multidirectional carbon weaves, so they don't need the extra long support tube the Alpha-Q required.

In that case, I still dislike the glued-in aluminum tubes with star nut. I'd look for a properly fitting compression plug, assuming the steerer really does not not require the tube for support.