Good set of climbing wheels?
#1
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Good set of climbing wheels?
I primarily ride on my Williams Carbon Clincher 38's.
I am doing a metric century next month that has around 8000 feet of climbing in it.
I have been looking for a good set of climbing wheels and wondering what others use.
What are some of recommendations that you have?
I am doing a metric century next month that has around 8000 feet of climbing in it.
I have been looking for a good set of climbing wheels and wondering what others use.
What are some of recommendations that you have?
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There are a lot of options, Williams included. Of course PSIMET could build you a nice light and durable wheel as well. The limiting factor is your budget.
My question is what you think a set of "climbing wheels" will do for the enjoyment of the century?
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Yup .... you'll finish the 65 miles 48 seconds sooner .... is that important ?
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What's your price range? If money is an object, a Neuvation R28 SL5 front/SL6 rear can be had for $299. At a claimed weight of only eight grams more than the Reynolds Solitudes that sell for $500, it seems like a great balance of light and cheap.
I didn't see the bike specs in your signature until after I wrote that, but now my guess is your'e looking to spend s little more than $299 here. Just a hunch.
I didn't see the bike specs in your signature until after I wrote that, but now my guess is your'e looking to spend s little more than $299 here. Just a hunch.
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The wheels you already have are pretty nice and not that heavy.
If I already had those and wanted a specific climbing set I'd think about Easton EA90 SLX or Williams System 19, for clinchers anyway.
If I already had those and wanted a specific climbing set I'd think about Easton EA90 SLX or Williams System 19, for clinchers anyway.
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After a little more thought, how about the Easton EA90SLX? 1390g without rim strips is pretty impressive. This is a savings of almost 1/2 pound from your Williams wheels, which are a pretty light starting point.
EDIT: Beat to it. I should refresh before adding an afterthought next time.
EDIT: Beat to it. I should refresh before adding an afterthought next time.
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ive been ridin gon the easton ea90slx wheels since the summer. absolutely love them. light, fairly stiff, responsive, and roll forever. when i was researching them and other wheels last year, they were the only wheels in that price range that came with ceramic bearings. plus, they look damn nice on my bike haha
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- Edge 25 tubular rims (2x215=420g)
- Extralite SX front and rear hubs (50f+135r=185g)
- Sapim Laser spokes (20f / 24r) w/ alloy nipples (~210g)
Should be around 815g for the set, but will be expensive.
- Extralite SX front and rear hubs (50f+135r=185g)
- Sapim Laser spokes (20f / 24r) w/ alloy nipples (~210g)
Should be around 815g for the set, but will be expensive.
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I've only climbed the sort of elevation you are talking about on 1 wheelset:
- Mavic Open Pro
- DT Swiss 240s (Enduro Zero ceramic bearings)
- Sapim CX Ray spokes (28 radial, 32 2x both sides)
- Alloy nipples
I have also been riding around on Dura-Ace WH-7850 C24 CL clinchers on one of my bikes. However, I haven't done any sort of climbing you are talking about on them.
Although they (DA clinchers) feel like they have more inertia on spin-up compared to the modified DT Swiss 240s hubs, I like the wheels better overall.
Nevertheless, if my riding proves anything, equipment (for us mortals) is more about feel than quantifiable differences IMO. Unless you are racing where a win might mean something or trying to break some sort of personal goal where you feel the costs are justified, any functional wheelset will get you there.
- Mavic Open Pro
- DT Swiss 240s (Enduro Zero ceramic bearings)
- Sapim CX Ray spokes (28 radial, 32 2x both sides)
- Alloy nipples
I have also been riding around on Dura-Ace WH-7850 C24 CL clinchers on one of my bikes. However, I haven't done any sort of climbing you are talking about on them.
Although they (DA clinchers) feel like they have more inertia on spin-up compared to the modified DT Swiss 240s hubs, I like the wheels better overall.
Nevertheless, if my riding proves anything, equipment (for us mortals) is more about feel than quantifiable differences IMO. Unless you are racing where a win might mean something or trying to break some sort of personal goal where you feel the costs are justified, any functional wheelset will get you there.
Last edited by kimconyc; 03-10-10 at 10:29 AM.
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When having the most aero wheel is not a big concern, I love my Topolino's at 1360gms.
https://www.topolinotech.com/products/cx20.php
https://www.topolinotech.com/products/cx20.php
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Those Topolinos look like very nice wheels, but I can't help thinking of these:
Anyone else seeing the resemblance? Maybe I was just 7 more recently than some of you . . .
Anyone else seeing the resemblance? Maybe I was just 7 more recently than some of you . . .
#19
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You need an old school tubular wheelset Dura Ace hubs on Ambrosio Crono F20 rims with good spokes and nice tubs (Vittoria Pave perhaps). Light and spiffy...
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So, if the OP is so slow that wind resistance is not a factor (like me ) and the lighter wheels will mean the SAG vehicle gets to go home 48 seconds sooner, and your budget is somewhat flexible, ask Psimet about building up some Kinlin XR-200 rims to Tune hubs with DT Aerolite spokes (the number of spokes will depend on your weight). Should come in around 1300g.
I also saw someone mention Ambrosio Crono F20 rims. If you're willing to go tubular, that's another 150g off the clincher rims I mentioned above.
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#21
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I've done quite a bit of climbing on 32 spoke Open Pros with Record hubs, and with a pair of Easton EA90 Aeros that are about 200 gms lighter.
Sadly, the only noticeable difference was in a slightly higher downhill speed on the slightly more aero, uh Aeros.
Happily, the only noticeable difference was in a slightly higher downhill speed on the slightly more aero, uh Aeros.
Enjoy the ride!
Sadly, the only noticeable difference was in a slightly higher downhill speed on the slightly more aero, uh Aeros.
Happily, the only noticeable difference was in a slightly higher downhill speed on the slightly more aero, uh Aeros.
Enjoy the ride!
#22
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Open Pros - if you can't climb on those, you just can't climb...
Now if you have $1500 burning a hole in your pocket, by all means get those bad-ass deep section wheels.
But I betcha you'll get passed by someone on OP's...
Also, if you really want to go faster uphill, there's always the free option (lose weight/diet).
Now if you have $1500 burning a hole in your pocket, by all means get those bad-ass deep section wheels.
But I betcha you'll get passed by someone on OP's...
Also, if you really want to go faster uphill, there's always the free option (lose weight/diet).
#24
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I have an e-mail in to PSIMET for a set of wheels. Just waiting on him to get back to me.
Anyone have experience with the Soul 2.0's?
Anyone have experience with the Soul 2.0's?
#25
stole your bike
I've only climbed the sort of elevation you are talking about on 1 wheelset:
- Mavic Open Pro
- DT Swiss 240s (Enduro Zero ceramic bearings)
- Sapim CX Ray spokes (28 radial, 32 2x both sides)
- Alloy nipples
I have also been riding around on Dura-Ace WH-7850 C24 CL clinchers on one of my bikes. However, I haven't done any sort of climbing you are talking about on them.
Although they (DA clinchers) feel like they have more inertia on spin-up compared to the modified DT Swiss 240s hubs, I like the wheels better overall.
Nevertheless, if my riding proves anything, equipment (for us mortals) is more about feel than quantifiable differences IMO. Unless you are racing where a win might mean something or trying to break some sort of personal goal where you feel the costs are justified, any functional wheelset will get you there.
- Mavic Open Pro
- DT Swiss 240s (Enduro Zero ceramic bearings)
- Sapim CX Ray spokes (28 radial, 32 2x both sides)
- Alloy nipples
I have also been riding around on Dura-Ace WH-7850 C24 CL clinchers on one of my bikes. However, I haven't done any sort of climbing you are talking about on them.
Although they (DA clinchers) feel like they have more inertia on spin-up compared to the modified DT Swiss 240s hubs, I like the wheels better overall.
Nevertheless, if my riding proves anything, equipment (for us mortals) is more about feel than quantifiable differences IMO. Unless you are racing where a win might mean something or trying to break some sort of personal goal where you feel the costs are justified, any functional wheelset will get you there.
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