+1

I got skipping on my smaller cogs before I learned how to install the link properly. It will go together and "work" either way, but not very well if you do it wrong.

Okay, so it's just one of the chain links, kind of like a latch on a necklace?

And I didn't lube it because I was ignorant, now I know better, so I do. So if I should be cleaning it, I want to be cleaning it. (you are right though, I've never removed my chain, much less removed it to clean it)

Basically, it's a special link that lets you take the chain apart without tools.

Wipperman link:


SRAM powerlink for 9 speed:


Some people take the chain off the bike to clean it. I do not recommend this practice -- stripping everything off the chain can actually be bad for it because getting lube worked in everywhere it needs to be takes awhile.

There are a few reasons to use removable links even if you intend to clean the chain on the bike. The first is that they are great for chain repair (I carry one in my saddlebag). Broken chains are extremely rare, but when they happen, an extra link is VERY handy. Many years ago, you could just remove a link but reusing pins with the new chains is dangerous.

You have a triple so you'll have a great gear range, but many people with doubles swap cassettes out. While you don't need to remove the chain to change the cassette, it's generally good practice to have chains and cassettes wear together so many people keep each cassette with its own chain.

The last reason is that some people believe that master links are a more reliable way to connect chains than using pins which are easier to install incorrectly.

BTW, use proper chain lube for your chain. I recommend against WD-40 for a lot of reasons and if you use the search function, you'll find that road riders almost never use that stuff.

If you want some good cheap lube that's good for most conditions, ProLink is good stuff. If you keep your chain lubed and clean, it will last longer and you'll have more fun riding. Don't apply too much -- just get a little on the chain and wipe off all excess with a rag. I generally lube once per week.

First off, I really appreciate the insight, you guys have been a big help.

So, SRAM chain (with powerlink, though I'm assuming all SRAM's come with this feature), and pretty much any of the three brand name cassettes (looking at a 12-21). I currently lube my chain about twice a week with a spray lube I got at my LBS. Only question I have left regards cleaning. banerjek, you don't recommend removing chain, so should I just rub it down with a rag? Use some SimpleGreen or something like that?

Again, thanks again guys for all your help.

Yeah -- what they've set you up with will work fine.

And as far as cleaning goes, rubbing down with a rag is both fast and effective. just put a teeny bit of SimpleGreen in your rag and squeeze the chain while you pedal backwards. Don't worry about getting your chain so clean you could eat off it. Just get it so it's clean enough -- when it seems to move fast and easy, you're good. Then lube lightly and remove the excess.

The most common mistakes new riders make is putting too much lube on and not cleaning often enough. Putting on too much lube will make your chain attract grime like a magnet and gunk it up. Not cleaning/lubing often enough leads to premature wear and reduced performance.

Simple Green killed my wheel bearings so I have stopped using it. I would still consider using it on a chain. Just be careful with it around the wheels and bearings, sealed though they may be.

Here on Bike Forums we have had many many multiple paged arguments that go on and on and on about lube and chain cleaning. No one will agree. Search. WD40 is only good to remove dirt, IMHO. My next chain lube will be some 3 in 1 oil. I kill chains. I live on top of a big hill, 750 feet, steep too. I climb lots of hills, Petes Mountain, Wisteria, Cemetery Hill, Bald Peak etc. So I push hard and stand up a lot, I'm 175lbs / 6' as well, and I'm not the best at keeping the chain clean. So I get about 1K out of my 10sp chains. Some people do a lot better but I don't think they climb as much, maybe my lube sucks, I dunno.....

Great thread. Lot of good info for us non-mechanics! Kind of like "Everything you wanted to know about chains and cassettes, but were afraid to ask".

Ha! We have strayed into the "temple of chain cleaning" so the passions should flare up and this tread will go straight to Hades in a big hurry.

Any more questions?

You guys have done a terrific job answering my questions....So if the thread is now prepared to go Hades, I'll just move to the side and enjoy the show.

You have now posted something reasonable. That will doom this thread to be "ignored".

There's a big difference between using a bit of this on a rag to wipe a chain down and using enough of it to strip all the lube off. I strongly prefer White Lightning for this purpose. But I think the OP would be fine with it so long as he doesn't soak the rag.

The OP's off to a good start. First century after just 6 months and at an 18mph avg pace riding solo. He's getting familiar with his bike and the options. Who wants to take bets on when he wants to upgrade his ride?

Yeah, I was hosing the whole bike down with straight simple green. I've used it in a chain cleaning machine and it works great. I just clean, over lube and wipe very well.

I think you may have saved this thread. I'm thinking he's already thinking about upgrading. I'd suggest carbon fibre and a relaxed geometry, of course, as I always do. Specialized Roubaix or Bianchi Infinito being the front runners for me right now. Just to keep it interesting, no aluminum and no steel.

i saw your thread about that great first century. it pains me to say that as a noob you are already a better cyclist than most here. every noob question you ask just rubs salt into that wound.

Just hope his next "noob" question is how to convert his speedometer from kilometers to mph!

That's funny right there!!

That's scary, because I am a "toy" guy. But we just bought a new house, and I have a 10 month old daughter, any major upgrades are going to have to be a while.

That's awfully nice of you to say, I don't believe that it's true, but still very nice.

Great thread. Great info. Thank you for not slamming those of us who don't know as much as you all. I, for one, am tired of forums that turn every little question into a chance for the responders to make themselves feel more important by belittling the noobs. We all had to learn everything we know, and, thanks to this thread, I know a little more now.

Oh...don't be fooled...there's plenty of that here. I mean PLENTY.

That's true. But seriously, the collective knowledge base and experiences from BFers is tough to find anywhere else. So we put up with the silliness because we love cycling and there are definitely some really good nuggets here, for both the novices as well as the experienced.

Cue "kumba ya..."

this thread just caught my eye - I don't want to hijack it but I have a related question. You can always tell me to go get my own thread but the ambiance is so nice here...

Today I was told that I need to replace my chain and cassette - the chain is totally believable but I held off because it seemed unlikely that the cassette was that badly worn. I bought my bike up 7 months ago from a friend who had put less than 50 miles on it then hung it on her wall to gather dust. Since October I've put about 1300 miles (it's been rainy) on it and have been not totally bad about cleaning and lubing the chain; I've taken apart and cleaned the cassette once.

So anyway I'm accepting that I need a new chain and not convinced about the cassette, especially after reading this thread. I was thinking though that when I do replace it I want to get something that makes more sense than just whatever came stock. I have a triple (30/39/50) with a 12 - 27 in the rear. I pretty much never use my 30 (but the times that I do use it I am very glad to have it) and I rarely find myself in the 39 - 27 or 39 - 24. I do on occasion begin to spin out the 50 - 12 (yes, on a flat road) - not saying I can hold that pace for long put it does happen, a little more each month.

But if I'm going to be replacing the cassette anyway is there a cassette that would be better suited for me?

My money is on the cassette being fine. So the question may be moot. That being said I suspect your current gearing is fine.

I only replace the cassette if it starts acting up once I install a new chain (was posted in another post recently). The reason riders say to replace the cassette is because the teeth may form to the old chain and not agree with a new chain. You'lll know because the chain will skip around on teh old cassette. IF it doesn, THEN replace the cassette.

IF you take care of the system (clean/lube) the chain will last longer along with the cassette. Some riders replace the chain every 2,000 miles. I do every 4000 and haven't had any problems but I keep it clean and lubed. IF I did encoutner a problem, I did once, I replace the cassette.

I had a bud that insited on replacing his DA cassette and chain every 2,000 miles cause the shop told him to do so (waste of money IMO). I never understood that as my bike always ran just as well as I kept it finely tuned!

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You could use a 12/23, might be nice but if you need that 27, you'd have to go to the 30 front ring for the lower gear combo to ease the climb.

Which my opinion, is that I use my 30 and the mid cogs in rear rather than cross my chain in the 39/25 (my cogset). I do my best to eliminate any crosschaining though. SO really, I don't need the 30, I use it to avoid crosschaining adn keep my chain mid cogs in the rear.

UPDATE - for you guys who have been so helpful, just a little FYI... I took the bike to my LBS and I'm getting a Shimano 12-23 9 speed cassette put on. I get the bike back this afternoon, so after I get a ride in I'll let you know how it feels!!