The main advantage is the ability to run really wide range cassettes in the rear without any chance of the jockey pulleys making contact with the cogs. The XT rear mech can handle up to a 34-tooth rear cog with ease, whereas the longer-cage Ultegra triple wouldn't be quite as tolerant .Also, the springs on the cage are more stout, which means less chain slap and slop when dumping gears.

My question is: why 9-speed, Machka?

The fork will be painted dark green.

Because I'm running a mtn bike cassette, and they don't run to 10 speed yet. Mtn bike components are more durable, which I need for the type of riding I do - long distances, hills etc.. I need a good granny to get up the hills with weight on the bicycle. And what would I do with an extra gear anyway ... I don't even get into the big ring very often.

Looks like the Ti steed is going to be a truly nice bike, machka. :D I'm pleased you are building a good solid, I won't say replacement for Machak since you had so many memories tied up in him, but at least a great new bike. Have you named him yet?

No ... I'm having a bit of trouble naming this bicycle. Not because I don't have some name ideas, but because I'm not sure I want to become emotionally attached to another bicycle yet.

I'm going to wait till I ride this bicycle a time or two and see how I feel.

More photos ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1430288...7623874386934/


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4069/...53a2bdafed.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4044/...2e227ca0f4.jpg

What I noticed is that you've put the seatpost clamp the 'wrong' way around. Is there a reason for that?

Actually, both SRAM and Shimano have 10-speed mountain cassettes now. That said, it sounds like you've got a setup you'll like. And when the 9-speed brifters fail (and they all do, given time and wear), there will be 10-speed available to replace.

What about something like this Machka? http://www.velo-orange.com/elsebarco.html

Too bad you don't live in the U.S. I'd send you mine. I've never used it and don't have a bike it'd look good on.

Thank you! :) And if that were in green, I'd definitely consider it.

The slot is in the back of the seat post tube, and it's a good idea to have the clamp opening on the opposite side to the slot.

Ne'er heard that before. Tried it on my carbon bike and found that the seatpost slipped when tightened to proper torque levels. Perhaps it's different on metal tubes?

I found my seatpost sliding a few mm each day after replacing my clamp. Haven't fixed it yet, so I'll be rotating the clamp in a few minutes to see how it works out :)

Here is the first draft of the titanium bicycle. This is not the official version, but this is a ridable version which I tested on a 30.5 km bicycle ride with the creator of this version, Rowan.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4066/...604653734f.jpg

There will be more changes before we get to the official version, but I need a bicycle to ride in an event next weekend. At the moment, for example, there is no green anywhere to be seen. The green is still coming. And we're working out a few other things as well.

I've added a bunch more photos of the first draft of the titanium bicycle here. There will be more changes before it is official. The wheels will change, and Rowan is working on a lighting system.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1430288...7623874386934/

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4003/...648f2d9511.jpg


We did a 29 km test ride today, with more adjustments along the way. That's almost 60 km already!!

The photos from yesterday's test ride are here, dated 08May10 ...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1430288...7623817713101/

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4010/...9d27f5d6e9.jpg

Starting to come together nicely.

What's with the second stem?

Second stem if for mounting the lighting system....

Well, not really. I am a firm believer that there is no point in cutting the steerer tube until the other elements of fit ave been dialled in. So... the steerer tube is still full length, and even though I bought heaps of spacers (enough for the final fit, I think) I didn't have enough to allow the headset to be tightened so Machka could ride the bike with the steerer tube uncut. I had a spare MTB stem so slipped that on there to give me what I needed.

The light, a Busch and Muller (B&M) Fly Senso, will be mounted on the fork crown behind the front brake. Randonneuring rules here require a second light be carried, but it can be fitted should the primary light fail. At the moment I would put it on the handlebar drops and "make do". Machka has her heart set on something to get the light mounted below the handlebar bag, and whether that is a SpaceSaver or a stem and bar, we will see. I just want to get the bike ready for this weekend's 400.

Congratulations on the new bike. I think it looks beautiful in black and silver as it is. How does it ride?

Looks like you've got it all ready for a good long ride. I imagine doing a really long ride on a new bike before you have tweaked all the fit adjustments is quite a leap of faith for most, but for experienced rando nuts like you it's probably just like getting dressed. Enjoy the ride.

I'll separate posts here because they might make things a bit more readable.

I had a very brief ride after Sunday's sortie, and I have to say I was very impressed with the smoothness... and now I WANT ONE!

Bear in mind that this was immediately after finishing almost 30km on a carbon frame and fork, so I could compare ride quality between both.

I like the steel fork on the Ti bike -- the steering was nice and direct. This is even though the carbon fork specced with the frame had a 38mm rake, while the Surly steel fork is specced at 45mm. It means a little less directness, and a little more comfort, in my opinion. And, there is almost no toe overlap for Machka.

And it probably helped just slightlly that I was sitting on my old Brooks B17 after riding the afternoon on a still-to-be-broken-in-after-750km Brooks Ti Swallow that's fitted to my carbon bike.

This Hasa or Saga Ti frame is not top-shelf by any stretch, but it does appear to do what it is meant to very well. And that is to give Machka a bike that will last her a very long time, that will be comfortable on long rides and that will be enjoyable on shorter rides.

The Surly fork I had was very stiff (a mag tested forks and proved it) and extremely heavy.
The steel fork on my bike now weighs about half as much as has a much better ride.

These are the Surly Pacer forks, and are more in the tradition of steel forks, rather than stiff MTB-style ones. They weigh in at 1300 grams, and that will reduce when the steerer tube is finally cut.

Machka was quite adamant she did not want a carbon fork, mainly because she saw the result of one that broke at speed on the Gold Rush Randonnee a few years ago. Ti was out of the question both in terms of cost and because they are reputed to be too "soft". As one person put it, you could apply the front brake and have the wheel come back and touch the downtube.

Off the shelf 1-1/8th steel forks are incredibly hard to locate here in Australia. We tried quite a few bike shops in Melbourne, and the best we could do was $AU330-plus for a custom-made one. Surly forks were close to $AU300 here, too. I sourced the Pacer one in the UK for $AU99 and they were here in an instant (in postage terms).

The Pacer forks also have eyelets on the dropouts for mudguards, and that was another factor in opting for these steelies rather than carbon.

More photos. :)

http://www.flickr.com/photos/1430288...7623874386934/


http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4021/...8cbb9a8610.jpg


http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1015/...764b159f4f.jpg

Hey, I'm all for a little mud on the tires :)

If you knew how wet and muddy the entire area outside our home is at the moment, we're lucky it's only a little mud!! It sure beats the picture in front of the garage door...