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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Another wheel question

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Old 04-27-10 | 06:27 PM
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Another wheel question

I have a set of the Bontrager SSR wheels on my bike with "stock" hubs. I am not sure what they are, just some generic sealed bearing hubs. I have noticed that my coasting speed is not very good as opposed to many other bikes in similar conditions. I was considering the idea of getting a new set of hubs, and/or a new set of wheels.

I don't know what it cost to have a wheel torn down and rebuilt. I had priced some hubs and found some 105's for about $100. I am happy with the SSR rims, in spite of being a bit heavy, they are holding true quite well so far.
I am just curious to know if having the current wheel rebuilt with better hubs would come out more cost effective than just purchasing a new wheelset with the hubs I want?

I price checked the SSR's and of course the only prices I can find for them are through Trek, priced what seems really high, and gives me no real comparison for a similar quality of rim to use. I would need the build, or wheelset price to come in under $200.

Any advice appreciated.
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Old 04-27-10 | 06:31 PM
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good wheels for under 200 you say?

you'll thank me later:

https://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Fu...et/5360045059/
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Old 04-27-10 | 06:39 PM
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OK, so I note on the description is states "high flange hub". How would the hubs on these compare to any other "generic" hub?

Also, something I didn't metion, but my wheels have a sort of odd spoke count, and I would imagine that I will have to find hubs that match that?
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Old 04-27-10 | 06:57 PM
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I'd say the coasting speed difference is more likely to be due to a less-than-optimal position or under-inflated tires. If you spin the wheel with it off the ground, does it not spin well?

I've never tried them myself, but what comes to mind at that price range is: Neuvation
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Old 04-27-10 | 07:35 PM
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I'd say you've gotten some good advice so far. The Fulcrums are nice at the price.

What chadteck suggests also occurred to me as I was reading your post. Pull them off the bike and give them a spin. Maybe compare them to a buddy's.

Always nice to have another set of wheels though.

Notice the Fulcrums are also a little different as far as lacing goes. The front is radial and the rear is half radial and standard lacing on the drive side (2:1)
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Old 04-27-10 | 07:51 PM
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Or you could have the bearings serviced/replaced. But if you are just looking for an excuse to buy some blingier wheels then go for it! I say to heck with senseable decisions, if new wheels will get you out riding more then do it.
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Old 04-27-10 | 08:02 PM
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Lol, thanks, no I ride about as much and as often as I can stand.

My tires are at 110, and checked before every ride. I do use 28's which I know will offer more rolling resistance than a narower tire. I had noted it a bit in group rides, but it was obvious to me something was up on a family ride the other day. Coasting downhill on a nearby road with the family, all on bikes with wider tires than I, and all lighter weight and less areodynamic than my riding position and were all pulling away from me in the coast. I don't know anything aside from hubs or brake rub (which I don't have) that would cause that.

With those fulcrums, all I would need would be skewers, and a cassette other than the obvious, correct? And they can handle a 200+ lb clyde?
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Old 04-27-10 | 08:12 PM
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I like my Performance Bike Forte Titans. They have sealed hubs, so they're suppose to last a while. At 1755g they aren't the lightest, but it's a good weight for $150 wheelset. They're supposedly similar to Neuvation wheels. I've ridden the front wheel pretty hard and it's stayed in true.
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Old 04-27-10 | 10:28 PM
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Originally Posted by punkncat
Lol, thanks, no I ride about as much and as often as I can stand.

My tires are at 110, and checked before every ride. I do use 28's which I know will offer more rolling resistance than a narower tire. I had noted it a bit in group rides, but it was obvious to me something was up on a family ride the other day. Coasting downhill on a nearby road with the family, all on bikes with wider tires than I, and all lighter weight and less areodynamic than my riding position and were all pulling away from me in the coast. I don't know anything aside from hubs or brake rub (which I don't have) that would cause that.

With those fulcrums, all I would need would be skewers, and a cassette other than the obvious, correct? And they can handle a 200+ lb clyde?
So have you checked the wheels by themselves or no? Depending on the wheels, it could also be that the quick release levers are too tight and are compressing the bearings. Also, this isn't very likely to be the cause by itself, but 110 psi for a 28 seems that it would be quite high. Even for a 200 lb rider the chart I'm looking at suggests the rear wheel just over 85 psi and the front at roughly 70 psi. It's known that psi being too high actually increases rolling resistance, but I'm not sure how much.

Lastly, you say that all family members were lighter weight. If they are significantly leaner, they may have a lower drag to weight ratio than you do, which would = faster descending.

I would guess the Fulcrums would be pretty strong since they are heavy.
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