calbrner

I have a 10 speed 105 drivetrain.

I assuming all I need is a new chain and a chain tool, correct? If so, which chain tool would you guys recommend?

Thanks.

abstractform20

a chain breaker. when you get a new chain get sram. the powerlink makes it really easy to remove.

blacksquid

I've used the Park Tool CT-5 chain breaker but you may want something with a bit more leverage. The Connex by Wipperman make it easy to clean & replace your chain in the future.

garysol1 

the Park CT-3 is the chain tool you want if you plan on doing your own maintenance for years to come....

coasting 

get the kmc chain with the reuseable link. take your chain off and on anytime and as often as you want.

garysol1 

Besides replacement why on earth would anyone want to take there chain on and off..... and on and off..... Just pin the damn thing and forget about it. Clean the chain while it is on the bike. It won't hurt anything.

ptle

I have a SRAM chain and it says the Powerlink isn't meant to be taken apart after you put it together.

AngryScientist 

even if you do this, the OP would still need a chain tool to properly size the new chain.

coasting 

you've got a point. the only time i had to take off a chain and put it back was when i was building up the bike and had to do something to the FD or RD after the chain was on. I did try cleaning my chain off the bike in a can of solvent and even though it did clean it better i have not repeated it because it was a pain to install the chain.

recon455

Sheldon Brown says this is bad for the chain on newer ultra narrow 10/11s chains, so cleaning the chain while it's on the bike is the best anyway.

jrobe

I have used the Park Tool CT-5 for years and it works perfect. I probably use it for 5 min per year to change my chain twice. I also buy my new Ultegra chains on Ebay - paid $29 for a new one with shipping this week.

roccobike

+1 or if you own several bikes or flip a couple now and then.

BiggSlic

I removed my last quicklink chain and cleaned in solvent. The chain got really clean but I think that was part of the reason why it only lasted about 500 miles. Dura Ace chain, 500 miles...yuck.

ptle

I hear you're not suppose to clean your chain too much because it will break up the lubricants inside the pins and plates.

I've only wanted to remove my chain once on my commuter, but that's partly my fault. When replacing your chain, make sure you clean your cassette/freewheel and chainrings. That way your chain won't get excessively dirty, if you keep up with it.

On my new bike, the cassette was very clean, and the chainrings were practically new. Since then I haven't had to do more than wipe down the chain with a rag and re-lubricate it. After applying some chain lubricant, run it through a few times and wipe off the excess.

ALPhillips

I remove my chain for cleaning and waxing in hot wax. Wax resists dirt pick up.

Shimagnolo

8s & 9s SRAM chains use a gold or silver PowerLINK, which can be removed w/o tools.
10s SRAM chains use a black PowerLOCK which requires the Park MLP-1 to remove.

Contrary to SRAM's marketing BS, the sole reason is to avoid paying royalties on the *reusable* SuperLink patent.
And for those who always want to argue about it, take a good close look at the two side-by-side;
The only difference is a tiny raised area on the edge of the slot to make removal difficult.

coasting 

chicken and egg. is the dirty cassette making my chain hard to clean or is the dirty chain messing up the cassette? such big questions!

ptle

Thanks for clearing that up. I kept thinking people were getting confused with a quick link. I have the ten speed chain so...

bjh000

Whatever you do, don't cheap out on the tool. I once learned the hard way and stripped the threads on the tool while taking the chain off. Then had to go and buy a park tools one in order to get it back on. Big waste of time.

Shimagnolo

And I just fixed the messed up syntax in my original post, so it should be even clearer now.

Daytrip

I like to have the option of removing the chain. I ride in the winter and around here, that means lots of grit on (and more importantly, in) the chain. The only way I've found to get it clean is by removing the chain and cleaning it in a can of solvent, then soaking it in a can of chain lube. Plus it's easier to clean the cassette and chainrings & RD on the bike with the chain removed. This must not be too bad for the chain, as my current one has more than 2,500 miles and no sign of wear (ruler method). I run a 105 10 sp. drivetrain.

In dry weather, I just wipe it off and relube as needed. I have found that the chain shifts better and makes less noise when it's got a little gunk built up on it.

evenslower

Whipperman Connex links are the way to go IMHO. I've used them for years on Shimano chains and more recently on Sram chains as well. Rarely ever take chains off but when I do its a breeze and they're reusable. Cheap enough to keep an extra or two around just in case.

If you're looking for a chain tool though, the Parks mentioned above will serve you well.

jrobe

Only 500 miles on a chain - that is terrible and would get very expensive.

I have been getting at least 4000 miles on my Ultegra chains by just using Pedro's chain lube 2-3 times per week. Apply it to the chain on the bike, run it through the gears (checking the RD and FD adjustments at the same time), wipe it off completely with a rag and away you go. Takes 2 minutes and the chain looks just as clean as soaking it and you haven't removed all the lube from where it is needed the most.

damocles1

You also need knowledge...

jks84

I have a mavic chain with a quick link... 3500 miles and minimal stretch. I have taken it off several times to clean and relube every 300-400 miles or so.