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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Creaky Headset

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Old 07-06-10 | 09:48 AM
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From: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS

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Creaky Headset

I've got a creaky kneeset, too, but that's a separate issue.

Seriously, I know pcad has a not-so-secret recipe for curing a creaky headset, but the stupid search function here in the 41 suuuuuucks.

I've taken it apart and greased all the bolts, contact points (even between the many spacers), and it just keeps getting worse. Torqued everything down--maybe not to spec because I can't find a spec for my stem--but evenly, in any event.

Any suggestions?
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Old 07-06-10 | 09:56 AM
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Time for a new headset?
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Old 07-06-10 | 10:43 AM
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Wierd. When mine was creaking I just readjusted the torques on the stem screws and top bolt screw, did the trick. Try taking it all apart one more time and checking both contact points of the headset in the frame.
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Old 07-06-10 | 10:56 AM
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what material steerer tube?

if carbon, try the carbon friction paste. if its alu or steel, try roughing up the steerer tube slightly with sandpaper so the stem gets a better grip on the steerer tube.

sealed bearings or loose ball? if you dont have the right amount of preload, that will definitely cause problems, good luck.
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Old 07-06-10 | 11:02 AM
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From: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS

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Aluminum frame; sealed roller bearings; carbon fork with (I assume) aluminum steerer tube.

I'll try the rough-up and taking it apart again. Once I figure out the brand of the stem, I think Park Tool has torque specs for different brands.

The bike's only got 5K miles on it and has been well cared for, so I'm sure nothing needs to be replaced.

But the creaking does get to you after awhile. Funny thing--it usually doesn't start until I've ridden 10 or 15 miles and is worst when pedaling uphill.
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Old 07-06-10 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Daytrip
Aluminum frame; sealed roller bearings; carbon fork with (I assume) aluminum steerer tube.

I'll try the rough-up and taking it apart again. Once I figure out the brand of the stem, I think Park Tool has torque specs for different brands.

The bike's only got 5K miles on it and has been well cared for, so I'm sure nothing needs to be replaced.

But the creaking does get to you after awhile. Funny thing--it usually doesn't start until I've ridden 10 or 15 miles and is worst when pedaling uphill.
first off how do you not know if your steerer tube is carbon or alu if you've removed the stem already?

make sure to clean out the bottom bearing and seating area of the headset very well, crap can easily find its way up there, and sand/dirt/grime will definitely make the unit groan. dont get caught up with torque specs, if its an alu steerer tube, just make sure everythings squeaky clean and lubed, get the preload right (by feel) and make the stem f-n tight.
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Old 07-06-10 | 11:26 AM
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I was thinking either aluminum or steel. Why steel, IDK.

It's probably sand....somewhere. I rode the bike all last winter and it gets pretty gritty out there. Everything I've disassembled and cleaned to date trying to diagnose this problem has had some grit in it. So there's probably a deposit I haven't found--yet.
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Old 07-10-10 | 04:18 PM
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Turns out it was the seat tube sleeve. I always keep my seatpost clean and lightly greased, so I thought I had that area covered, but I forgot about the sleeve. I noticed because my stand is a bit of a cob job involving using a piece of seatpost that goes into the seat tube. After thoroughly cleaning and greasing the appropriate parts on the headset for the second or third time, I noticed that when I rocked the frame around in the stand, it would make the same creak. Cleaned out all the sand and applied some grease and the creaking is all gone. Enjoyed a quiet ride for a change.
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