BB30 crankset question
07-08-10 | 08:37 PM
#1
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BB30 crankset question
Looking into building up a frame that's BB30 compatible. Correct me if I'm wrong, but from what I understand there's only two specific BB30 compatible cranksets (SRAM and FSA). I've only used Shimano and Campy in the past (and for what it's worth have been equally pleased with both).....would I be out of line in using an adapter to make it compatible with Shimano or Campy or cranksets?
In using the adapter do you lose any of the drivetrain stiffness afforded by a BB30 specific crankset?
In using the adapter do you lose any of the drivetrain stiffness afforded by a BB30 specific crankset?
07-08-10 | 08:48 PM
#2
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From: Aurora, CO USA
Cannondale also makes a BB30 crank. Do what you like with the cranks. If you really want Shimano or Campy get an adapter. I like the ones from Wheels Mfg. I have SRAM BB30 cranks on one of my bikes, and FSA BB30's on another. Both are great cranksets if you want to go BB30.
07-09-10 | 05:03 AM
#3
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From: Eastern Indiana
Bikes: Madone 6 series SSL, Cannondale CX9, Trek TTX, Trek 970, Trek T2000
Get a Red BB30 crank, best value, or a FSA. If you want a Shimano or Campy crank, buy a different frame.
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07-09-10 | 05:19 AM
#4
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From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
Regarding the question on losing the BB30 stiffness, not really. When you use an adapter, you lose a little bit of the rigidity of the BB30 cranks. A magazine did a study comparing two cranks, BB30 and not, same crank otherwise. They found the biggest difference was in the weight of the cranks - the BB30 version was lighter.
Having said that, I'm now convinced that trivial weight (say, 1-2 lbs, even 2-3 lbs) on the bike, except in the wheels, doesn't make much of a difference *if* the rider is carrying weight. I raced a much lighter bike in 2009 than in 2010, but in 2010 I'm much lighter myself. The net loss in weight is about 30 lbs, and my bike is anywhere from 2-4 lbs heavier. My race wheels weigh about the same for both years but my training wheels weigh a lot more for 2010.
So am I gram hunting on the bike? No, not really.
Having said all that, I like the BB30 philosophy. My back up bike will have BB30.
I use the Cannondale SI cranks because they allow me to switch crank length without losing my (SRM) spider. Takes about 5-10 minutes to change the arms.
(btw Cannondale created the BB30 standard, not that it means anything other than they created it.)
cdr
Having said that, I'm now convinced that trivial weight (say, 1-2 lbs, even 2-3 lbs) on the bike, except in the wheels, doesn't make much of a difference *if* the rider is carrying weight. I raced a much lighter bike in 2009 than in 2010, but in 2010 I'm much lighter myself. The net loss in weight is about 30 lbs, and my bike is anywhere from 2-4 lbs heavier. My race wheels weigh about the same for both years but my training wheels weigh a lot more for 2010.
So am I gram hunting on the bike? No, not really.
Having said all that, I like the BB30 philosophy. My back up bike will have BB30.
I use the Cannondale SI cranks because they allow me to switch crank length without losing my (SRM) spider. Takes about 5-10 minutes to change the arms.
(btw Cannondale created the BB30 standard, not that it means anything other than they created it.)
cdr
