Worn out Chain?
#1
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Joined: Nov 2009
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Worn out Chain?
I recently took my road bike to the local bike shop for a tune up. I asked them to just replace any parts that needed to be replaced. The tune up was a birthday present, so I wasn't too worried about cost. I knew the brake pads and bar tape needed to be replaced, and I figured the chain needed to be replaced as well. I got the bike used as a Christmas present, and since then have logged well over 3,000 miles on it. I have never replaced the chain. I've heard that the chain should be replaced every 1,000-2,000 miles. However, the bike shop did not replace the chain. When I picked it up, the mechanic was not there. I figured they didn't replace it because it didn't need to be replaced. Now I'm wondering if I was wrong. Should they have replaced the chain?
Shifting is smooth, and I don't have any problems with my derailleur, cassette, or chain while I'm riding. I've heard that some people just replace everything at once (cassette, derailleurs, chain). Should I take the bike to another shop and get the chain replaced? Or, if I'm not having any issues, just leave it be for now? I don't mind getting everything replaced at once in a few months... I'm willing to shell out the money. I'm just wondering which approach is better. Or if I even need to really worry about this at all.
Just for reference... I'm new to cycling. My bike is a Trek 2.1 WSD. I ride 120-180mpw right now, but in the winter it's less. I've been riding for 6 months now. I appreciate any help... thanks so much!
Shifting is smooth, and I don't have any problems with my derailleur, cassette, or chain while I'm riding. I've heard that some people just replace everything at once (cassette, derailleurs, chain). Should I take the bike to another shop and get the chain replaced? Or, if I'm not having any issues, just leave it be for now? I don't mind getting everything replaced at once in a few months... I'm willing to shell out the money. I'm just wondering which approach is better. Or if I even need to really worry about this at all.
Just for reference... I'm new to cycling. My bike is a Trek 2.1 WSD. I ride 120-180mpw right now, but in the winter it's less. I've been riding for 6 months now. I appreciate any help... thanks so much!
#2
You blink and it's gone.
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 4,436
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From: Dundas, Ontario
Bikes: Race bike, training bike, go fast bike and a trainer slave.
The only way to know if a chain is worn is to measure it...You can use a chain checker tool (Park Tools makes one) to make the job easier...Though some people prefer the tried and true method of measuring..
https://bicycletutor.com/chain-wear/
https://bicycletutor.com/chain-wear/
#4
The Park chain checker is not very accurate... I prefer a ruler and when a chain has stretched to 12 1/16 I install a new one and for me this is usually after 4000 km / 2500 miles.
If you have ridden 3000 miles on a bike that was already used I would be quite sure the chain is worn significantly but because the chain, chain rings, and cogs wear together it may still run smoothly.
If you replaced the chain and left the other components you might experience drive train issues such as skipping gears as the new chain may not mate with what could be a rather worn cassette.
Experience has shown that a chain should last at least 2000 and a cassette should last 2- 3 times that if the chain is replaced before it exceeds an acceptable wear limit of 1/16 over... chain rings will last much longer than this depending on their quality as they do not experience as much load as the smaller drive cogs.
If you have ridden 3000 miles on a bike that was already used I would be quite sure the chain is worn significantly but because the chain, chain rings, and cogs wear together it may still run smoothly.
If you replaced the chain and left the other components you might experience drive train issues such as skipping gears as the new chain may not mate with what could be a rather worn cassette.
Experience has shown that a chain should last at least 2000 and a cassette should last 2- 3 times that if the chain is replaced before it exceeds an acceptable wear limit of 1/16 over... chain rings will last much longer than this depending on their quality as they do not experience as much load as the smaller drive cogs.
#5
Medicinal Cyclist
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS
Bikes: 2003 Klein Q Carbon Race; 2009 Giant OCR-1
Use the ruler. I get thousands of miles out of chains--way past when my crummy Park chain wear checker says it's time for a new chain. Like 65R says, the ruler tells the tale. If the scenario he presented turns out to be the case, i.e., everything is close to worn out, then just ride it until it quits working right and then replace the chain and cassette together. Putting a new chain on a worn cassette will cause it to skip, and you won't be able to ride it. If it's working well at the moment, in other words, get what you can out of it and then spend the money. There will be other birthdays, after all.
#6
I replace my chain every 1500 miles (about every two months), and it's worked out well for me so far. My drive-train is still running flawlessly.
However, I do clean my chain after every ride, and clean my drive-train at least once a week.
However, I do clean my chain after every ride, and clean my drive-train at least once a week.
#7
Medicinal Cyclist
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS
Bikes: 2003 Klein Q Carbon Race; 2009 Giant OCR-1
Do you replace it because it's worn, or just on a schedule? If the latter, I bet you could get at least twice as much life out of your chain. My current chain (Shimano 105) has more than 2K miles on it, and no sign of wear with the ruler method.
#8
Live to ride ride to live
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 4,896
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From: Austin, Texas
Bikes: Calfee Tetra Pro
My bike shop doesn't recommend the Park chain checker and suggested a Wipperman chain checker. I think it's accurate. The only thing that would be better would be to buy calipers and measure the chain when it is new and replace it when it has stretched by 1%.
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
#10
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,197
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
My bike shop doesn't recommend the Park chain checker and suggested a Wipperman chain checker. I think it's accurate. The only thing that would be better would be to buy calipers and measure the chain when it is new and replace it when it has stretched by 1%.
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
#11
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12,275
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From: SE Minnesota
Bikes: are better than yours.
My bike shop doesn't recommend the Park chain checker and suggested a Wipperman chain checker. I think it's accurate. The only thing that would be better would be to buy calipers and measure the chain when it is new and replace it when it has stretched by 1%.
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
Here is the Wipperman chain checker. There may be a plastic version too. Avoid that one.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
Oh my.
__________________
Telemachus has, indeed, sneezed.
Telemachus has, indeed, sneezed.
#12
Wanna sell me your old chains cheap?
#13
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#14
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,239
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From: Bay Area, Calif.
No need to go overboard. I've found the yardsticks that the hardware stores frequently give out for free are plenty good for the accuracy needed (about 1/32"). New chains are 1/2" per half link, so when it's 1/16" over the mark on a span of 12" that corresponds to wear of 0.5% and time to keep a close eye on it. 1/8" over on a 12" span is 1% elongation and definitely time to replace.
#15
Senior Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 858
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From: Daly City, California
Bikes: Trek 2.1, CAAD10
If you can take care of your bike and give it tender loving care your parts will last long.
Some chains will last long. My friend is going to change his at 10,000 miles. He has about 8500 now.
Some chains will last long. My friend is going to change his at 10,000 miles. He has about 8500 now.
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