hi--the Clydes weighed in on this already but I thought I'd ask a wider audience...

I broke a couple spokes on my Roubaix rear wheel and had the LBS build me a custom wheel. they said they'd use a Mavic OpenPro rim, but when I got there to pick it up it was a Velocity Dyad. they apologized profusely, gave me a discount, and said they'd call when the OpenPro was ready next week. they also claimed the OpenPro rim would be "much stronger"...

so I rode a century on the Velocity Dyad, and it worked great. moreover, when I asked the clyde crowd originally several of them suggested a v-shaped Velocity rim because I'm on the hefty side (250+). the Dyad is designed for loaded touring, which is pretty much what I do except the "load" is me :-)

I'm inclined to just take this wheel and run with it instead of exchanging for the OpenPro. the Mavic website says something about the OpenPro being "the reference rim" but if that's more than marketingspeak I'm guessing it applies to the sub-200# crowd more than me.

what say ye? snarky comments more than welcome

Open Pros are the bullet proof golden standard... take that for how you want.

Depends on how much of a discount you get, how long the wait is, and how badly you need wheels.

I haven't ever seen or tested the Dyad rims, but they look like they would be pretty sturdy. I like that they have the wider 24mm rim.

https://www.velocityusa.com/default.asp?contentID=584
https://www.mavic.com/road/products/o....323926.2.aspx

there's no wait, as the Velocity rim is mine until the OpenPro is built. and yes, the 24mm rim is just fine for me as I ride 25mm tires. not sure how wide the OpenPro is (19.6, it looks like). I think the price will be similar.

given that, what say you?

I don't know how they could have given you a wheel with a different rim than you asked for, but that is a separate issue.

What are the specs of the wheel (# and types of spokes and hub)?

For your weight I don't think the Open Pro is the best choice, and the Dyad should be better. The wider rim and V shape will definitely be stronger and more stable than an Open Pro. You probably should use at least 25mm wide tires with it. I personally like double eyelets, and a wide rim with double eyelets that would also work very well for you is the DT Swiss TK540. But since you already have a wheel with a Dyad rim, there is probably no reason to switch to the DT Swiss rim now.

I have a Dyad on my touring rig. It's a damn strong wheel but.... I'm not sure how a 23mm tire would work with it. If I remember correctly it's a 24mm rim width. I run 28-32mm tires with mine so can't say for sure. I would imagine that Velocity would have that information on it's website.

yeah it was clearly a screw-up on their end.

sorry for omitting details earlier. both wheels have 36 spokes. they promised an Ultegra hub on the OpenPro, but it looks like a Deore hub on this Velocity rim.

am indeed running 25mm tires.

I'd ask for a discount on the Dyad and call it a day.

....but FYI my own Open Pros still don't need truing... even after crashing and I weighed 220 at the time.

I think 220-240 is a safe limit for Open Pro rims. DT Swiss has a maximum weight recommendation of 240 lbs for their RR465 rim, and that is a little deeper than an Open Pro. I don't think Mavic has a weight recommendation for their rims.

hrm. I'm currently 270# (though dropping), so that doesn't sound like a great idea...

A Deore hub? Are you riding a road bike? Deore hubs have a 135mm rear axle spacing vs 130mm for road hubs? In that case I would suggest getting it rebuilt with an Ultegra hub like you originally planned. You don't want the rear dropouts pushed out farther than they should be, even though it is only 5mm. What material is your bike made of?

pretty sure it's a Deore LX - picture is attached.

it's a Specialized Roubaix, so a carbon-fiber road bike. dunno about spacing, but I rode a century on it yesterday and it was a champ.

It is your call. A steel bike can handle a wider axle, but even with steel it is better to bend the tubes to accomadate the wider spacing. I'm not sure how carbon fiber will handle it in the long run. If you call Specialized they will probably say that it voids the warranty for the frame.

Wrong rim and wrong hub? Wrong LBS.

yikes...though I bought it used, so there's prolly no warranty anyway

If you like the wheels built with Dyads, keep them and ride them. I'm 165 pounds and recently built up some DT 190 hubs with CXrays and Dyad rims, 32 spoke. They are quite the "bombproof" wheelset. They are not the most comfortable but they spit in the eye of potholes and road debris.

Open Pros aren't good rims. I have had a number of them crack or rattle or both, and I weigh 140 lbs. I won't use them again.
The Dyad looks like it's pretty strong and it's only 40g heavier. I have not used them before but with Velocity's reputation for good rims I'd say it's an upgrade from an Open Pro.

The Deore hub is another problem. I'd have the shop do something about that. It's not a good idea to cram a 140mm hub into a 135mm carbon frame.

As a wheelbuilder, the OP is about the last rim I'd put a clyde on, especially for the rear wheel. The Dyad is a great choice and running a 25mm tire would be preferable at your weight. To me, the bigger issue is that clyde wheels, done right, require some extra steps that your shop likely left out. I use spoke head washers, locking nipples and butted spokes on all clyde wheels. Since I offer a trueness and spoke breakage warranty for the rim's lifetime on wheels I spec and build, these extra steps prevent future problems.

Sending you out the door with the wrong hub for a road bike is just plain sloppy! It shows a lack of attention to detail-a quality I would think you'd want in someone in whom you have trusted your safety!

maybe I missed something - the Deore LX is not a hub for a road bike? sorry for my cluelessness but I don't know what it means to "cram a 140mm hub into a 135mm carbon frame"

Well actually, road is usually 130mm, ATB is usually 135mm. Some tandems are 140mm. These are "overlocknut" dimensions. Any wheelbuilder worth his salt will verify the correct rear hub for the intended bike.

It means the hub is wider than your bike is built for, so the dropouts must be forced apart to get it to fit. This can work with steel. Not a good idea with aluminium. I'd imagine a terrible idea with carbon, though that's just a guess.

it's the build, not the rim. Mine have need truing occasionally and I already smacked a flatspot in my rear wheel

I would be fine with the Dyad rim. I have been running one for years on my tandem with no issues. The Deore hub on the other hand I have an issue with. It is the wrong hub for your application. I would TELL them that you want at least an Ultegra level hub built into the Dyad rim.

I think it would be less work for everyone involved to just return the wheel and have them build the wheel that was originally intended. Its not like anything is lost- the wheel they gave you is a nice wheel for a bike tourist or commuter, but a bad wheel for a road racer.

hmmm...I wonder whether this could explain something weird that was happening. I'd had the bike tuned up just a few weeks before (same store), and the shifting had been flawless. but when I got on the bike yesterday with this new wheel, shifting was reluctant, with gears jumping/slipping and no ability to reach my climbing gear. by any chance could that be attributable to the wrong width hub being forced into the frame?? I tried adjusting the limiter screws and barrel, but nothing seemed to help.