Chain Wear Checking for Dummies
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#27
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The chain in that photograph has more than 2,500 miles on it. It failed the Park Chain Checker Tool test about 1,500 miles ago.
#28
stole your bike
I'll keep that in mind for future expensive tool purchases since rarely do they include that kind of adventure.
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#29
Has coddling tendencies.
A tape measure, which is typically made of a flexible material intended for use by tailors and seamstresses to measure inseams and arm length when making slacks and blouses, would be the worst option for measuring wear on a chain. Staring at the chain and guessing would give you the same results as a tape measure.
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+1 - I use and like this and keep it with my bike tools. It has two sides depending on which method you like to use and is easy to measure the chain while it's still on the bike.
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A tape measure, which is typically made of a flexible material intended for use by tailors and seamstresses to measure inseams and arm length when making slacks and blouses, would be the worst option for measuring wear on a chain. Staring at the chain and guessing would give you the same results as a tape measure.
I'm pretty sure he knows what kind of tape measure he was talking about!
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I have a problem. For both of the last 2 chains I bought, I measured them when newly installed. Both times the 12 inch mark on the ruler was on the left edge of the rivet already. Is my ruler wrong or should I replace the chain immediately before riding?
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#33
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Quit buying your chains second hand on Ebay, coasting.
And don't buy your rulers at the Dollar Store. Do they have those in England, BTW? The Pound Shoppe, perhaps?
And don't buy your rulers at the Dollar Store. Do they have those in England, BTW? The Pound Shoppe, perhaps?
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we have loads of pound shops now. what we need is a 99p shop when deflation kicks in.
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
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coasting, few quotes are worthy of him, and of those, even fewer printable in a family forum......quote 3alarmer
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I wish I had the benefit of reading this thread before I bought this POS:
Right after I bought this, I checked a chain that had a couple hundred miles on it and the tool told me that it was almost ready to be changed. I was puzzled, so I posted a thread here a couple years ago and was told by several people that the tool is worthless. I now use a metal ruler. Hopefully people get the message before they buy a lousy tool or they change a chain that's perfectly fine.
Right after I bought this, I checked a chain that had a couple hundred miles on it and the tool told me that it was almost ready to be changed. I was puzzled, so I posted a thread here a couple years ago and was told by several people that the tool is worthless. I now use a metal ruler. Hopefully people get the message before they buy a lousy tool or they change a chain that's perfectly fine.
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I'd check the ruler or you method. Or you could just keep replacing the chain until you get one that's not pre-worn.
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Chain checkers confuse roller wear with chain stretch and exaggerate the reported wear.
The 12" measurement is the right way to do it.
BTW I have a Park chain checker in my tool box, and quit using it.
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I've checked dozens of chains with a similar tool (Nashbar version) and all those that failed had a good amount of stretch in them and should be considered to be replaced. It's true that the tool will possibly measure double the amount of stretch due to it pushing on the rollers of both sides and roller wear isn't really chain wear BUT in terms of ability to do as maintenance it's a really nice tool to have. Takes less than 3 seconds, don't get your hands dirty handling the chain, and once it does say your chain needs replacement, double check with the ruler method and work appropriately. I basically start looking for a chain deal when the 1% mark falls in (and I think many people who say they fail with a new chain don't know what falling in means) and then will replace it when the ruler says it needs it or I feel like it. Since technically the rollers are what contacts the gears, if you have excessive roller wear you're probably wearing the gears as well.
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A tape measure, which is typically made of a flexible material intended for use by tailors and seamstresses to measure inseams and arm length when making slacks and blouses, would be the worst option for measuring wear on a chain. Staring at the chain and guessing would give you the same results as a tape measure.
(Apologies to our overseas members for the flagrant references to the byzantine units of measure we use here. We'll catch up, one day...)
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What I've heard about this tool is that the two measurements mean two different things. If the smaller of the two measurements is used and fails then you need to replace the chain. If the larger of the two measurements fails then you have done damage to your drivetrain. Who knows.
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I thought that only the Shadow knows.
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#46
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Nice little how to. Thanks.
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According to my bike mechanic, this is the only chain wear checker, other than a ruler, that works.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
#49
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Even the Wipperman chain checker does not truly measure elongation. You can not bear against a roller at each and of the measurement and get true elongation, since the wear on two rollers is added to the measurement and all rollers are not the same diameter. That's why some chain checkers show a brand new chain to have .25% elongation, even though they are usually a little short of .500 inch per link, when brand new.
I made my own full-length measuring tool and found that new chains may be about 1/16" short, over a 53 inch length, when new. I imagine that the first 50-100 miles takes care of that, as all the parts "seat-in" with one another.
Get a 12" precision rule with square ends so you don't have to eyeball any of the graduations.
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=19522213
Lay the rule on the edge on the edge of a pin, so you can see the entire pin. The pin at the opposite end of the rule will be completely covered, when the chain is new. When almost half of the that covered pin is exposed, you've reached .5% elongation.
That works great for chains that elongate quickly, but it's worthless with a Campy chain that can be completely worn out, but only have a fraction of the much elonagation. The rollers can be shot and the side clearance excessive, but the elongation small.
I made my own full-length measuring tool and found that new chains may be about 1/16" short, over a 53 inch length, when new. I imagine that the first 50-100 miles takes care of that, as all the parts "seat-in" with one another.
Get a 12" precision rule with square ends so you don't have to eyeball any of the graduations.
https://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...MPXNO=19522213
Lay the rule on the edge on the edge of a pin, so you can see the entire pin. The pin at the opposite end of the rule will be completely covered, when the chain is new. When almost half of the that covered pin is exposed, you've reached .5% elongation.
That works great for chains that elongate quickly, but it's worthless with a Campy chain that can be completely worn out, but only have a fraction of the much elonagation. The rollers can be shot and the side clearance excessive, but the elongation small.
Last edited by DaveSSS; 08-14-10 at 09:24 AM.
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According to my bike mechanic, this is the only chain wear checker, other than a ruler, that works.
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
https://www.bigringadventure.com/wipp...chain_wear.htm
If you can find a Shimano TL-CN40 or TL-CN41 tool, they are accurate in that they measure only pin-to-pin distance and do not obfuscate the matter with roller wear, that obviously is immaterial to the pitch of the chain and varies significantly between even new chains.
See THIS