cjcastan

if you have $800 for the bike I'd go felt or spesh then.

trek2.3bike

Get the 1.2 or even a 1.5. They have better shifters. My first Trek was a 1.5.
They are on sale now and within your price range. Remember that Trek dealers CAN (and do) ship to each other.

HazeT

I was having the same problem as the OP... originally I wanted the TREK 2.1 2011 but it's too expensive for me as of now, so I was looking at the 1.1
I don't think the 1.2 or 1.5 are worth it, I mean, the 2011 2.1 is going for 1125 here, so only a little bit more expensive and comes with the shimano 105.
I found that my LBS have the Specialized Allez Sport Compact '10 for $710. I will stop by tomorrow and go for a ride.
Do you think it's a good price for this bike? or I would still be better saving more for the 2.1, Defy2 and similars?
I'm really far from been a pro, I just like to get my bike in the morning and go for a 20 mile ride before I go to work... I currently doing it on a hybrid, this would be my first road bike

wrr1020

At least get the 1.2 if your gonna go with Trek.

solatic

The 1.1 has the same geometry and the same frame as the 1.2 or the 1.5. That's the same geometry as the new Madone 3 series - a nearly $2,000 carbon fiber racing bike with far superior components.

The problem is, the components are crap. You will notice that they are crap. Hell, I have a 1.5 with a Tiagra set-up and I recognize that Tiagra can't shift for crap. But, budgets are budgets. I'm going to echo earlier recommendations to try different brands and see which one's geometry works for you, because the components at that price range are all going to be crap no matter which brand you go with.

Going used isn't the correct answer here. Yes, he'll get a much better bike for his money, but this guy's a newbie who's testing the racing/road bike waters (judging from budget, join date, and post count). What's going to matter more for him is fit and he's not going to get a good fit when a) he doesn't know the difference between a 48cm frame and a 60cm frame and b) whoever he buys the bike from is definitely not going to fit him. Buying from a good LBS should get him a decent fit with purchase and that'll make the difference between despairing pain and comfortable speed.

canam73

If I had to buy a new entry level bike I would probably go with the F95. The gearing and geometry more closely mirrors what a experienced road riders end up on then some of the other bikes mentioned. The trade off is that in order to keep the price competitive they have used a lot of house and off brand components. There isn't necessarily anything wrong with any of it, but some people want to see shimano written on things instead of sunrace or microshift.

But if you are more thinking of touring or casual riding, you may want a triple crank and relaxed geometry.

guadzilla

That's not really a notable point. Most road bikes have pretty much the same geometry.

And btw, if you cant get your Tiagra to shift properly, have it checked out. Tiagra works quite well - maybe not as fast and smooth as the higher-end stuff but perfectly functional.

GeorgePaul

+1.

GeorgePaul

Wow! Really?

trek2.3bike

xxxxx

djpfine

If you have the patience, you should be able to find some nice deals at this time of year. Go test ride a bunch of bikes at your LBS and try to find a '10 or even an '09 model that they're looking to clear since the '11s are now out. I bought my first road bike a few weeks ago and it pretty much came down to choosing between the Spec Allez, Secteur, and Giant Defy.

Adrianinkc

For someone starting off the 1.2 is a great bike. I was in your shoes a couple of months ago and went with a 1.5. Don't worry so much about the components starting off. The guy who said tiagra doesn't shift well, get your bike checked out something is wrong. Sure it's no Sram red but it works very good.

solatic

I mean, most of the time the Tiagra setup shifts like a charm. The RD is pretty damn good. The FD though is crap - takes much more time to shift and the FD cable is almost worn-through even after a mere 300 miles, and whenever the chain jumps it's ALWAYS the fault of the FD. I'd replace the cable under warranty at the LBS I bought it from but that LBS is 7 time zones away :/ and the nearest Trek LBS in Israel is impossible to get to despite being only ~90km away, because bikes aren't allowed on buses or trains and the only roads to get there are freeways that bikes are not allowed on (nor would you want to ride a compact back up the STEEP Judean Hills to get back to Jerusalem - over 2500 ft of elevation over a mere 30 km - especially in the heat of summer. Great training grounds though XD). Or maybe bikes are allowed on the freeways (for all I know), but the shoulders get very, very narrow at spots and you definitely don't want cars passing you at 110+ km/h (70 mph).

moreorles

I was having chain jumping problems and general shifting problems also on my Trek 1.2 FD. Here is what was happening in my situation. I have a double on the front. The 1.2 also comes with a triple. Both utilize the same shifting mechanisms for the FD. I can at will have my chain pop off if I over shift it. It takes some getting used to but it is working correctly. It does take longer to shift but it is also a longer drop between cranks as opposed to your rear.

Cateye

The bottom line is based on the OP's budget you get about the same quality bike regardless of the brand. Look for the best deal for the money, carbon forks, better drive train etc. I own a Trek so I think that Treks are great bikes but for the money get the best deal you can find.

ModeratedUser01102018

Check the Allez out

https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...nuItemId=14878

PhotoJoe 

It's interesting nobody has discussed the different geometries available, and the differences. I've seen Allez and Secteur lumped into one post as an option, but no differential. OP: How old are you? What style riding are you hoping to do? How many miles in a day? In a week? I know you are new, but what do you HOPE to do? The Allez is the Specialized aluminum "race" geo where the Secteur is their "comfort" geo. I'm in my 40's and did the whole "race geo" in college. That was then, this is now. I don't want a race geo, I want to be comfortable. Therefore, my list of bikes I will test ride when the funds are saved:

Giant Defy
Felt Z
Specialized Secteur
Specialized Roubaix (Carbon version of Secteur)
Cannondale Synapse

and Trek has the Pilot.

The level of components will be determined by budget at the time.

Good luck.

ara35

I am 23 years old. I commute 10 miles each way, so atleast 100 miles a week. Plus i look to do some riding on the weekends. I am looking more for a "race" bike then a comfortable bike. I really wanna just fly and be able to take down trails and hills. I hope this helps.

Just saw a trek 1.2 in a window on my way back from lunch and looked good. going to try as much as i can and see what works for me.

ModeratedUser01102018

That really is the best thing to do. It doesn't matter what we like. It's your bike.

Try the Allez though It has a race geometry.

guadzilla

As far as a beginner is concerned, more or less yes. 73/73, give or take half a degree, and a headtube that is +/- 1-2cm.

Yeah, "more or less the same" != "exactly the same": there are differences and one might fit slightly better/handle slightly better than another, but buying a Trek 1.1 b/c it has the "same geometry" as a Madone isnt a very good reason. That was my point.

noise boy

Entry level race geometry bikes would be:
Cannondale CAAD9
Specialized Allez
Felt F Series
Trek 1.2, 1.5 although these actually are a little more oriented towards the comfort side of geometry, but only halfway that way.

I am sure there are others but that is pretty good start to a bunch of bikes to ride.

speed mode

I am on my 2nd month of a 1.5 and love it. I got it for $989.00. I am a heavy climber, I couldn't afford 105 or ultegra, but the tiagra rear shifting is working great thus far. I rarely come off the big ring in front because the hills are only a mile or so long here. But the few times I did shift in the front was pretty decent. Overall a great bike. I also tested the 1.1, 1.2 in their parking lot. For the $200-$300 more it was worth it for better shifting, a carbon fork and a carbon seat tube.

Juan Torres

Hello ,are35. u was in the same boat your in now back in April, I wanted a good entry level bike to start with (was riding a NEXT and a gery fisher MTB) My coworker who has now 4000+ miles on his 2006 trek 1.2 took me to a LBS to help me chose and fit a bike to me, the LBS we went to sold trek, giant,baniche.rosa. I test ridded a couple of bikes in the $800 to$ 900 range to me they all rode and felt good. I ended up taking the 2010 trek 1.2 over the others I test ridded only because I am new to this sport, I have SAG'ed for him on 4 MS150 rides and numerous of other local rides and the only thing that has gone down was having a dozen or so flats, 2 snapped chines,and 1 broke seat post to me that’s pretty good for what some people say is a cheaply built bike. I have had mine since April 3rd 2010 and now have over 400 miles on it with no issue’s I am now getting ready to ride my 1st MS150 with him,,,my 2 cents

Blackdays

Uhhh....that's not exactly a "small" thing.

cappuccino911

Whoa, trails and road bike don't really go together so you should elaborate. If your commuting, you may want to consider a flat bar roadie. I have the giant rapid 3 which does not have a carbon fork but it is also only $550. It has lots of clearance so you could easily put 32 or 35c tires on it and actually navigate mild trails. It's geometry is also very close to that of the defy so you could always convert it to a drop bar later and upgrade components. It's quite a fast bike.