Upgrade or leave alone ?
#1
Upgrade or leave alone ?
So this year I bought my first road bike a trek 1.5. After having it for 2 months I realize that a triple is not for me. I find it that the gears over lap and I constantly find myself shifting to much to find the right gear. ( I know this is lack of experience also. ). It's got tiagra components on it, which have been fine but I think I want to upgrade to either 105 or SRAM rival. So my question is ??? Should I put more money into this bike or just get another next year ? The bike is aluminum with a carbon fork and seat post.
#2
Must Go Faster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 972
Likes: 0
From: Stopped at the bakery
Bikes: Trek Madone 5.9, BMC Road Racer SL01, Orbea Aletta TT
I woukd uograde the whole bike. It is cheaper to go all the way than upgrade the compoents and then decide you wish you had a better frame, wheels, etc. On top of that, you may end up changing wheels as well as tiagra is 9 sp and most if not all upgrades will take you to 10 speed.
#3
Nine speed hubs are compatible with ten speed cassettes so that part would not be an issue.
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I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
#4
Danger to Himself
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 400
Likes: 0
From: Southeastern Massachusetts
Bikes: 2008 Specialized Roubaix Elite, 2008 Trek 4300, 2006 Surly Cross Check
I woukd uograde the whole bike. It is cheaper to go all the way than upgrade the compoents and then decide you wish you had a better frame, wheels, etc. On top of that, you may end up changing wheels as well as tiagra is 9 sp and most if not all upgrades will take you to 10 speed.
#5
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 909
Likes: 2
From: The Path to Fredvana
Bikes: Long Haul Trucker 2010 , Felt Z90 2008, Rans Rocket 2001, Specialized Hardrock 1989
Try riding around in the middle ring 90% of the time. Don't worry too much about being in the "perfect" gear. Big ring for long downhills/flats, granny ring for the most extreme uphills, middle ring for everything else. I'm guessing you'll find your gearing is fine. I've got a triple and I never use the granny ring unless I've been climbing and climbing and turn the corner and get that "oh god, that's steep and I haven't got much left" feeling. Then it's sure nice to have it.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 909
Likes: 2
From: The Path to Fredvana
Bikes: Long Haul Trucker 2010 , Felt Z90 2008, Rans Rocket 2001, Specialized Hardrock 1989
Oh, and if you are inexperienced, it is common to being pushing too big a gear at too slow a cadence. I don't know if that's an issue for you, but in general keep a nice smooth, relatively fast cadence.
#8
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,235
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
+1 on not spending money to upgrade. I'd ride it like it is.
That said, if the gears really bug you, it doesn't sound like you need as low of gearing as you have, so you could put on a more tightly spaced cassette, such as an 11-23.
That said, if the gears really bug you, it doesn't sound like you need as low of gearing as you have, so you could put on a more tightly spaced cassette, such as an 11-23.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#9
Maximus
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,846
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
#10
Try riding around in the middle ring 90% of the time. Don't worry too much about being in the "perfect" gear. Big ring for long downhills/flats, granny ring for the most extreme uphills, middle ring for everything else. I'm guessing you'll find your gearing is fine. I've got a triple and I never use the granny ring unless I've been climbing and climbing and turn the corner and get that "oh god, that's steep and I haven't got much left" feeling. Then it's sure nice to have it.
Thanks a lot for the input guys. I know 2 months is not a long time to figure something out.
#11
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 92
From: Awesome, Austin, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6
What cogset do you have on the back?
In the last 5 years, I've ridden a triple (52/42/30), a standard double (53/39) and a compact double (50/39). The terrain here in Austin is mainly rolling hills with occasional steep climbs.
I'm a little confused by the description that your gears "over lap". This is normal. Each chainring provides you a range of gear options when mated with a cogset on the rear. The ranges over lap on purpose.
Below are three tables showing gearing combinations for each of the three chainring configurations, mated with a 12-27 cogset on the back.
I set these tables up to represent the MPH you'd be traveling if you were pedaling at 80 RPM. While unrealistic, this is the easiest way for me to think of how gearing affects speed...instead of gear-inches or some other measurement.

Per z90's suggestion, try riding mostly in your middle chainring. This will probably serve the bulk of your needs. When you run out of gears on the middle chainring, then it's time to move to either the bigger or smaller chainring, depending on whether you're going uphill or down.
In the last 5 years, I've ridden a triple (52/42/30), a standard double (53/39) and a compact double (50/39). The terrain here in Austin is mainly rolling hills with occasional steep climbs.
I'm a little confused by the description that your gears "over lap". This is normal. Each chainring provides you a range of gear options when mated with a cogset on the rear. The ranges over lap on purpose.
Below are three tables showing gearing combinations for each of the three chainring configurations, mated with a 12-27 cogset on the back.
I set these tables up to represent the MPH you'd be traveling if you were pedaling at 80 RPM. While unrealistic, this is the easiest way for me to think of how gearing affects speed...instead of gear-inches or some other measurement.

Per z90's suggestion, try riding mostly in your middle chainring. This will probably serve the bulk of your needs. When you run out of gears on the middle chainring, then it's time to move to either the bigger or smaller chainring, depending on whether you're going uphill or down.
__________________
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
#12
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 1
That is the first thing i learned from this forum several months ago, and it has served me very, very well. It's turned into one of my 'riding mantras', when things start getting tough....'spin more, mash less'...
#13
What cogset do you have on the back?
In the last 5 years, I've ridden a triple (52/42/30), a standard double (53/39) and a compact double (50/39). The terrain here in Austin is mainly rolling hills with occasional steep climbs.
I'm a little confused by the description that your gears "over lap". This is normal. Each chainring provides you a range of gear options when mated with a cogset on the rear. The ranges over lap on purpose.
Below are three tables showing gearing combinations for each of the three chainring configurations, mated with a 12-27 cogset on the back.
I set these tables up to represent the MPH you'd be traveling if you were pedaling at 80 RPM. While unrealistic, this is the easiest way for me to think of how gearing affects speed...instead of gear-inches or some other measurement.

Per z90's suggestion, try riding mostly in your middle chainring. This will probably serve the bulk of your needs. When you run out of gears on the middle chainring, then it's time to move to either the bigger or smaller chainring, depending on whether you're going uphill or down.
In the last 5 years, I've ridden a triple (52/42/30), a standard double (53/39) and a compact double (50/39). The terrain here in Austin is mainly rolling hills with occasional steep climbs.
I'm a little confused by the description that your gears "over lap". This is normal. Each chainring provides you a range of gear options when mated with a cogset on the rear. The ranges over lap on purpose.
Below are three tables showing gearing combinations for each of the three chainring configurations, mated with a 12-27 cogset on the back.
I set these tables up to represent the MPH you'd be traveling if you were pedaling at 80 RPM. While unrealistic, this is the easiest way for me to think of how gearing affects speed...instead of gear-inches or some other measurement.

Per z90's suggestion, try riding mostly in your middle chainring. This will probably serve the bulk of your needs. When you run out of gears on the middle chainring, then it's time to move to either the bigger or smaller chainring, depending on whether you're going uphill or down.
Cassette SRAM PG-950 11-26, 9 speed
Crank FSA Vero, 50/39/30 (triple)
#15
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 92
From: Awesome, Austin, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6

I'm using Sheldon Brown's gear calculator (of course)...and he didn't have the 11-26, so I used the 12-26. The 11 tooth probably gives you 1 - 2 mph at the top of each range over the 12 tooth.
Per the previous note, the middle ring gives you a MPH range that is probably perfect for most of your riding.
__________________
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
#16
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,235
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
I'm using Sheldon Brown's gear calculator (of course)...and he didn't have the 11-26,.
But agreed the one tooth difference is not going to be a big difference.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#18
Remember this next time when you ask something and get no beneficial answers.
__________________
I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
#19
upgrade .... done... go cwush your enemies...
#20
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 4,237
Likes: 92
From: Awesome, Austin, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6
Personally, I LOVE my 42-tooth chainring on my triple but it won't get me up some of the hills around here, so the 30-tooth is great to have. The 39-tooth on my standard double is also great for most of my riding but again, I can't climb all the hills and without a third, smaller chainring, it's of limited use around here. My compact (50/34) gives me the climbing gears I need but the ranges mean that I'm shifting between the 34 and the 50 chainring more frequently (or doing more cross-chaining than I like).
It's all a trade-off.
It's all a trade-off.
__________________
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
#22
CAT4
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 0
From: Omaha, Nebraska
Bikes: 2009 Cervélo S1, 2009 Felt F75, 2010 Cannondale Synapse Carbon 5, 2011 Cannondale CAADx, 2011 Specialized Transition Elite
I'd keep your Trek 1.5 as is and save up for another bike if you want one. Then the 1.5 can be your rain bike. I have had a triple road bike and I definately prefer compacts for ease of gear selection and smoother front shifting.
#23
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 909
Likes: 2
From: The Path to Fredvana
Bikes: Long Haul Trucker 2010 , Felt Z90 2008, Rans Rocket 2001, Specialized Hardrock 1989
#24
Just Plain Slow
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 6,026
Likes: 5
From: Santa Clarita, CA
Bikes: Lynskey R230
If you find you're guads are now massive and you can hear the lamentations of those who are tryin to hold your wheel, but just can;t seem to make the 'dingleberries' hurt enough - swap the outside 50 ring for a 52 or 53 (54 is easily had and some searching might find a 56) and scooch the FD up 2 mm on the seattube, have one link added to the chain.
upgrade .... done... go cwush your enemies...
upgrade .... done... go cwush your enemies...

#25
So this year I bought my first road bike a trek 1.5. After having it for 2 months I realize that a triple is not for me. I find it that the gears over lap and I constantly find myself shifting to much to find the right gear. ( I know this is lack of experience also. ). It's got tiagra components on it, which have been fine but I think I want to upgrade to either 105 or SRAM rival. So my question is ??? Should I put more money into this bike or just get another next year ? The bike is aluminum with a carbon fork and seat post.
Upgrade everything that you can transfer to your next bike.
Saddle, bar, stem, pedals, wheelset, etc...
This way, you won't lose the money and when you upgrade to a better bike,
you'll have all the personalization parts already in possession ready to mount.
Going double would be really nice. Would be so much simpler to ride.
If you did that, either replace it with cheap replacement
parts (Tiagra) or with "keeper" parts (Dura Ace).








