Can someone please explain "Fork Rake" to me?
#1
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Boone, North Carolina
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
Can someone please explain "Fork Rake" to me?
My CAAD 9 fork has a "45" rake. I'm looking at a 3T model that come in either 43, 49, or 53 rake. Nothing in the same rake as mine has now.
So, what will this do if I get the 43, or the 49? I've heard it makes steering either more sensitive (twitchy), or more stable, depending on which way you go.
I just don't understand. If I get the 43, which is closest to what I have now, what difference will that make?
Sorry for the ignorance, but I can't find a chart, graph, or anything else to explain it to me.

RD
So, what will this do if I get the 43, or the 49? I've heard it makes steering either more sensitive (twitchy), or more stable, depending on which way you go.
I just don't understand. If I get the 43, which is closest to what I have now, what difference will that make?
Sorry for the ignorance, but I can't find a chart, graph, or anything else to explain it to me.

RD
#3
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Boone, North Carolina
Bikes: 2009 Cannondale CAAD9-6 2014 Trek Domaine 5.9
thanks Namenda,
So looking at that picture, if I go from a 45 to a 43, which would move the rake back towards the bike a little, then the steering becomes more twitchy? How much difference would a 49 make in stability if I got that from the current 45??
So looking at that picture, if I go from a 45 to a 43, which would move the rake back towards the bike a little, then the steering becomes more twitchy? How much difference would a 49 make in stability if I got that from the current 45??
#4
Old fart



Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Appleton WI
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Fork rake, as shown above, is the amount of offset from the steering axis to the dropouts. In combination with head tube angle and wheel size, it determines the amount of geometric trail. A larger trail makes the bike more stable but harder to turn. A smaller trail makes the bike more responsive but "twitchier." Most modern bicycles use a head angle in the 72-74 degree range and a rake of 40-50mm, giving trail of 60-65mm.
https://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/20...le-bit-of.html
https://davesbikeblog.blogspot.com/20...le-bit-of.html
#5
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From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
The formula for trail is R/tanH - (offset/sinH), where R is the tire radius and H is the head tube angle. All fork offset reduces trail, so the more offset the smaller the trail and the quicker the steering.
#7
If you can't get the exact same rake, go with smaller rake, not larger.
You don't want to learn the hard way that the larger rake was enough to put you into highspeed shimmy.
This is most likely on tall frames where the *(&$#@# mfgrs use steeper headtube angles to keep the wheelbase short.
I have a tall custom Lightspeed for which I had to order a custom-built fork with 38mm rake, because forks with 43-45mm rake would result in shimmy.
You don't want to learn the hard way that the larger rake was enough to put you into highspeed shimmy.
This is most likely on tall frames where the *(&$#@# mfgrs use steeper headtube angles to keep the wheelbase short.
I have a tall custom Lightspeed for which I had to order a custom-built fork with 38mm rake, because forks with 43-45mm rake would result in shimmy.
#8
#9
When I was diagnosing my shimmy problems, I discovered Moulton's articles, which were best discussions anywhere on steering geometry.
#10
#11
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From: Mesa, AZ
Bikes: Moots RCS, tandem, beach-cruiser, MTB, Specialized-Allez road-bike, custom track-bike
Typically we don't ever hear complaints from people that their bike is too stable and is too unresponsive in turning. Most of the time it's complaints about the steering being to twitchy and the bike being too unstable. In which case, going with less rake (for more trail) will result in a more stable bike. Go for the fork with 43mm rake.
#13
grilled cheesus
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: 8675309
Bikes: 2010 CAAD9 Custom, 06 Giant TCR C2 & 05 Specialized Hardrock Sport
^^^^ i call it responsive, which the CAAD9 is with the stock fork (rake). it was the most obvious difference i noticed from my Giant TCR. later.
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#14
Have bike, will travel
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From: Lake Geneva, WI
Bikes: Ridley Helium SLX, Canyon Endurance SL, De Rosa Professional, Eddy Merckx Corsa Extra, Schwinn Paramount (1 painted, 1 chrome), Peugeot PX10, Serotta Nova X, Simoncini Cyclocross Special, Raleigh Roker, Pedal Force CG2 and CX2
My cyclocross frame has a 72 degree headtube angle. I'm currently using a fork with a 44 mm offset. I think the handling of the bike is perfect and am trying to duplicate the geometry on my next bike.
The frame I'm considering buying also has a 72 degree headtube angle. The wheel size will be the same, as is the fork length.
The new bike uses a 47 mm offset standard from the factory. However, consider that the headtube angle and tire size is the same as the old frame, I'm going to use my existing 44 mm fork.
I'm assuming that I'm duplicating the geometry of my existing bike as long as the headtube angle, tire size and fork length is unchanged.
Am I correct?
The frame I'm considering buying also has a 72 degree headtube angle. The wheel size will be the same, as is the fork length.
The new bike uses a 47 mm offset standard from the factory. However, consider that the headtube angle and tire size is the same as the old frame, I'm going to use my existing 44 mm fork.
I'm assuming that I'm duplicating the geometry of my existing bike as long as the headtube angle, tire size and fork length is unchanged.
Am I correct?
#15
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Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Loveland, CO
Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2
Only correct if the frame is built for a fork with the same axle to crown length. Not all forks have the same axle to crown length. A longer fork would reduce the HTA and increase the trail. A shorter one would reduce the trail. It takes about a 9mm length diffence to change the HTA by .5 degree.
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