Loosen with allen/hex wrench, invert, shake.

That little piece is very important, it expands as you tighten the top cap. It my fall out if you flip the bike on the seat and handlebars with a little tap because with the bolt removed it should be decompressed. I found this style of top cap/expansion plug for the carbon steer tube to be a bit tricky at first but once you figure it out, no problem. Here's a picture of what should be in there (2nd from left minus the top bolt) https://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Can...155_p_530.html

Like shake weight? I'll give it a try when I get home, thanks.

So next time I take it all the way off I just unscrew it enough so I can pull it out?

Thinking about it....less than 2 weeks for me to fubar something. Now I have a goal when I buy my n+1 winter bike

You could also use a magnetic reach tool on the screw in the center to pull the plug up if you don't like turning things over. Flipping it quickly after loosening the screw up is quick and dirty, though. You aren't the first to have the thing slide down, we all experience this one from time to time, just one thing about the modern threadless fork and stem set up to handle. No sweat or shame, you write it up to experience and then help someone else in the future when they find this out. Part of bicycling.

Bill

Hi, anyone 5'11 with a 31.5' inseam willing to offer sizing advice. I feel like i might be good on either 54cm or 56cm if i play with stem length. I've ridden both but i was looking for a 2nd opinion

thanks

My inseam is the same as yours, I'd say 54 is wherenyou want to be.
My body type is strange, I can tolerate 52/53cm but like the longer TT on 54cm frames.

6'' with 32'' inseam, i ride 54cm with 110 stem. My other bike is a 56mm with 90stem. the handling is about the same but 110 stem looks better

"So next time I take it all the way off I just unscrew it enough so I can pull it out?"

Yes, use a 5mm hex to slightly loosen the inner (silver) bolt that is just above the expender, then use a 6mm hex to slightly raise the top cap and pull up. If it wont come up just loosen the smaller 5mm hex in small increments until it does. The trick comes when you reassemble it, that's where I had trouble the first few times I attempted it. Upon reassembly, you must be sure to have enough preload on the headset bearings so there's no play in the fork. My method for doing this is to reinsert the expander assembly just as it was removed, be sure your stem bolts are loose but aligned with the front wheel, roll the bike up against a wall so the front wheel has a little pressure on it which for me helped to keep the fork properly aligned for the next step, then snug the inner 5mm hex just enough to feel slight pressure, tighten the 6mm hex on the top cap to pull everything together, tighten the stem to steer tube bolts (if aligned), then retighten the 5mm inner hex. There may be easier methods and I would recommend using a mini torque wrench if one is available but that's how I did it. Also, if you happened to have cut the steer tube be sure it doesn't extend past the top of the stem or spacers above the stem (if any) because if it does, you wont be able to load the bearings properly when tightening the top cap. After it is back together, apply the front brake and rock the bike back and forth and pay attention to the fork where it goes into the frame, if you see, feel, or hear noise from there you must re do the whole process until it's right.

I got my bike back from the shop, it wasn't a bearing issue. Just a lot of salt and road dust had gotten in there, cleaned, repacked and sent on its way. It brings me to the question, if there is a cap for that big hole in the FSA crank or does it serve a purpose that I am unaware of

I'm 5' 10" with about an 1" off of your inseam length. I ride a 54 and have even considered going down to a 52 (although I'd have to endure every LBS telling me that wouldn't work). I ride with a 100mm stem and 80mm reach on my handlebars. I also don't have a large amount of seat post showing on my 54 (about 4 inches).

Apartment living:

5'11", 31.5" inseam, proportionally short femurs, and 54cm with a 20mm SB post and 115mm stem is just right. I almost bought a 52 but the drop was unpleasant with the stem slammed on the crown.

u w0t m8? Damn I'm 6-0 and I ride a 58 lol.

Either way, good luck at least the bike will be lighter! Comfort > all.

So if I understood this correct:

1. Screw the expander back on the black/silver assembly and tighten the inner 5mm bolt till a little pressure is felt.
2. tighten the top cap (to torque?)
3. tighten the bolts on the back of the stem (to torque)
4. tighten the inner bolt again (I am guessing to torque this time...) Can you explain this step? is it just to get everything tighter


Two more questions:
Can I also assume since it has 6nm on the stem bolts its 6nm on the 5mm inner bolt as well?

And this is what the assembly looks like right now, the threads on the silver are threaded into the top cap to the point of being just out of sight. My question is: If should look like this right? So when I do step 2 it has room to screw farther in....or should it be screwed in farther prior to step 2?

31.5" inseam is the important bit of info here.
I'm 5'9 but have a 31.5" inseam, theres no way I'd fit a 56cm comfortably.

I am 6'2" and on a 56. I rode the 58 and felt way too far from the point of steering. I also had a 58 synapse and that felt big as well.

For me the 56 puts it in the money spot. A little more seat tube never hurt anyone.

I dunno about what others may think, but if you don't know what you're doing with a VERY IMPORTANT part of the bike steering system, then it is probably best left to one who does know.

There is plenty of info on the internet about how to install/adjust the expander/top-cap for the stem - Google is your friend.


From the Cannondale manual:-

The following procedure should only be completed by a professional bike mechanic.

1. Assemble the fork, headset, spacers, and stem without tightening the stem bolts onto the head tube. When
the system is assembled, the carbon steerer tube should be 2-3 mm below the top stem. All spacers must be
located below the stem and within the maximum stack height as shown. No spacers may be used above the stem.

2. Set-up the compression assembly before inserting it. Adjust the length so that the expander is located at
lower stem bolt. The top cap and the expander end provides critical support to the carbon steerer when
tightening the stem bolts. Adjust the length by threading the top cap on the expander parts.

3. When the assembly is the correct length, insert it into the steerer tube. It is designed to fit snugly inside
the steerer. Insert a 5 mm Allen key through the access hole in the TOP CAP and into the EXPANDER BOLT.
Tighten the expanding parts by turning clockwise to 6.8Nm, 5 ftLbs.

4. Now, to set bearing preload, insert a 6mm allen key into the hex shape in the TOP CAP itself. Turn the entire
top cap clockwise to increase preload. Turning it counter-clockwise will decrease the preload. When the
headset preload feels correct, turn the stem to align the handlebar and tighten the stem fork clamp bolts
to the torque specified for the stem. Consult the stem manufacturer’s instructions. The torque values for
components are often marked on the part.

cheers

The best thing to do is find a bike shop that does something like RETUL fitting or similar. And have them take some measurement and they will be able to tell you what size bike to get depending on the make and style you want. Because even though you might have the same inseam, your arms might be longer etc. For example i am 5/11.5 with a 35 inseam, there this guy at the bike shop who is 6/2 and my arms are longer than his, RETUL put me on a 58cm frame. Its very important that your bike fits perfect for a number of reasons like power, efficiency, comfort, lower the risk of injures etc. i ride my CAAD10 and superSix 100mi with no discomfort what so ever, I paid $250 for a RETUL fit and it was well worth it.

I actually did google it....for about 3 hours haha. A few videos and a lot of "i want to switch to cane creek headsets" later I gained a general idea, but specific questions were not answered, hence why I came back here

Specifically the inner bolt torque, doesn't hurt to ask the other questions

But, I did download Cannondale's manual and searched "headset" but the closest thing I got was the break-in period info and "after long/hard rides do this check".

Is that just the normal manual...?

The shop selling the bicycle should help with fitment to some degree. I don't see how a $$$ fit with special equipment is required to determine which frame size for a customer. When you pay MSRP, you should get something more than just making bicycles available.

hi All - thought that i would put up some pics that i took while on a 130km ride on Friday morning. Standard 2014 CAAD10 3 Ultegra in Black Stealth. only upgrades are the wheels. I still cannot for the life of me figure out why my bike came with white cables. LBS said that it was how they come from Europe. still a great ride. 130km was the longest ride i had done. it was on the Al Qudra Cycle Path (AQCP) which is an 85km lollipop purposely built for cyclist by the sheikh of dubai and cost approx 15 million USD (i think) - only cyclists allowed on it.



i do need a proper bike fit. but there was no discomfort on the ride apart from aching legs. i do love my bike - i love the stealth look even though it is unimaginative to make everything black. wanna get some black spider rings but will wait until i have the moolah

5'6" 31.5" inseam, I ran a 52cm which felt fine. 120mm stem/no setback post. Which would have been better with a 100mm stem and 20mm setback post, but hey whatever.

Nice bike you got there sir, i have the same frame. I ordered the frame set and build it up.

True its not required, just taught it would be good to share some of what i did. Before i bought my 2012 superSix, they took measurement of my arms, legs, inseam. overall height, etc. When the correct size was chosen, then came the the fun stuff. I was put on some kind of specialty table, they check my flexibility etc. To make it short before i leave the shop with my bike it was set up to fit me like a glove. And the fit was factored in with the prize of the bike. To many times i see people buy new bikes, and the first thing they do is to start upgrading wheels and components. I was told that the first thing to do is get a proper bike fit, before any thing else and i listen. But to each is own and its not a requirement just taught i share my experience.