Ultegra or Force?
#26
Go with the SRAM. Best bang for your buck hands down! I came from Shimano and I had a little period of adjusting to the double tap. The shifting was a bit off when I first installed the group. After couple hundred miles to give cables some stretching, in addition to to periodic adjustment, it now shifts like a dream. Extremely quick and precise. I thought I would miss shift mechanism of shimano, but not any more. I will never go back. Double tap, is just amazing after you get hang of it.
#27
If you want any answer other than SRAM, you're on the wrong board! The BF guzzles SRAM KoolAid. Truth is . . . they both work.
Force is somewhat lighter. Force can be cheaper. Force (to my hands) feels cheaper and clunkier. Front shifting is significantly smoother and quicker with Ultegra 6700 -- a "snick" from one gear to another. Shifting is "firmer" with Force (i.e., you have to push harder) -- some call it "more positive". I find it easier to shift with Shimano when climbing steep climbs from the hoods. Functionally, it's a matter of preference.
And as for fragile STI's? I've never heard of a non-crash related problem with Shimano's STI's, even at lower levels. As for "accidental braking" with Shimano? They can't be serious.
Force is somewhat lighter. Force can be cheaper. Force (to my hands) feels cheaper and clunkier. Front shifting is significantly smoother and quicker with Ultegra 6700 -- a "snick" from one gear to another. Shifting is "firmer" with Force (i.e., you have to push harder) -- some call it "more positive". I find it easier to shift with Shimano when climbing steep climbs from the hoods. Functionally, it's a matter of preference.
And as for fragile STI's? I've never heard of a non-crash related problem with Shimano's STI's, even at lower levels. As for "accidental braking" with Shimano? They can't be serious.
#28
well hello there

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Bikes: Bill Holland (Road-Ti), Fuji Roubaix Pro (back-up), Bike Friday (folder), Co-Motion (tandem) & Trek 750 (hybrid)
#29
Bike ≠ Car ≠ Ped.

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Bikes: Some bikes. Hell, they're all the same, ain't they?
#31
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Joined: Apr 2006
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From: Aurora, CO
Bikes: CAAD9-1, Windsor Cliff 29er
Essentially Rival, Force and Red shift the same for the Front Derailleur (zero loss), but only Red had zero loss for the rear derailleur.
until i picked up a dura ace 7800 group for $670 i was going to build mine up with a sram rival group however, i was going to use a Red rear derailleur.
Obviously Force is lighter than Rival and Red is lighter than Force.
IMO go Rival w/ Red rear derailler and use the saved money to buy a nicer wheelset than you planned.
until i picked up a dura ace 7800 group for $670 i was going to build mine up with a sram rival group however, i was going to use a Red rear derailleur.
Obviously Force is lighter than Rival and Red is lighter than Force.
IMO go Rival w/ Red rear derailler and use the saved money to buy a nicer wheelset than you planned.
#32
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Kansas
Bikes: Cervelo RS, Specialized Stumpy, Schwinn 974
SRAM's not very good. I'm at 9000 mi now. I've had adjust the barrel cable tension adjusters twice just to keep it in tune. What kind of crap is that?
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
#33
SRAM's not very good. I'm at 9000 mi now. I've had adjust the barrel cable tension adjusters twice just to keep it in tune. What kind of crap is that?
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
#34
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Bikes: Kestrel RT900SL, 1975 Viner, Specialized StumpJumper
I'm 90% sure I'm going with Force. Ribble has a good price on the group set but I may sell the shifters and then buy some Red shifters. I no nothing about how the Zero Loss works, but it sounds good.
Also my current wheels are Campy Eurus. Great wheels, perhaps the best I've ever had so I don't want to get rid of them. How hard is it to convert to SRAM and where can I source the free hub. Cost?
Also my current wheels are Campy Eurus. Great wheels, perhaps the best I've ever had so I don't want to get rid of them. How hard is it to convert to SRAM and where can I source the free hub. Cost?
#35
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Uhmmmm there are an extensive number of threads on dead and/or dying STI shifters just check the mechanics forums.... I myself own a pair (now repaired, 6501's), repaired someone elses Dura Ace STI. And have had numerous other people donate dead STI levers to me. Trust me they wear out I actually have pictures to prove it (Sadly there are no other references to a non worn out shifter for comparison shots but trust me when I say they end up grinding their insides up)
#37
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2010
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beautiful frame.
what problems did you have with campy - it's been bullet proof for me. I also have DA 9spd but will replace with campy. I have a lot of friends that ride sram and they speak highly of it (note: they all have red)
what problems did you have with campy - it's been bullet proof for me. I also have DA 9spd but will replace with campy. I have a lot of friends that ride sram and they speak highly of it (note: they all have red)
#38
Banned.
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I own both 2010 Force and Ultegra 6700. They came stock on the bikes I bought. Ultegra front derailleur shifts are sublime, a revelation. Nothing comes close. Rear shifts are quiet and smooth and the overall feel of Ultegra is solid. The hoods are little large and I have big hands but the ergonomics are WAY better than my 7800 Dura Ace.
Force is lighter and I like the ergonomics of the hoods better than Ultegra. Shifts are precise and quick but it doesn't feel as solid as Ultegre. HOWEVER, if I were building a frame up myself, I'd put Force on it.
Like someone else said above, you can save $ by getting Sram Rival shifters and brakes but get Force Crank and Derailleurs and you wouldn't know the difference. it all boils down to preference and mainly the erognomics of the hoods as this is where you spend most of your time.
Force is lighter and I like the ergonomics of the hoods better than Ultegra. Shifts are precise and quick but it doesn't feel as solid as Ultegre. HOWEVER, if I were building a frame up myself, I'd put Force on it.
Like someone else said above, you can save $ by getting Sram Rival shifters and brakes but get Force Crank and Derailleurs and you wouldn't know the difference. it all boils down to preference and mainly the erognomics of the hoods as this is where you spend most of your time.
#39
I own both 2010 Force and Ultegra 6700. They came stock on the bikes I bought. Ultegra front derailleur shifts are sublime, a revelation. Nothing comes close. Rear shifts are quiet and smooth and the overall feel of Ultegra is solid. The hoods are little large and I have big hands but the ergonomics are WAY better than my 7800 Dura Ace.
Force is lighter and I like the ergonomics of the hoods better than Ultegra. Shifts are precise and quick but it doesn't feel as solid as Ultegre. HOWEVER, if I were building a frame up myself, I'd put Force on it.
Like someone else said above, you can save $ by getting Sram Rival shifters and brakes but get Force Crank and Derailleurs and you wouldn't know the difference. it all boils down to preference and mainly the erognomics of the hoods as this is where you spend most of your time.
Force is lighter and I like the ergonomics of the hoods better than Ultegra. Shifts are precise and quick but it doesn't feel as solid as Ultegre. HOWEVER, if I were building a frame up myself, I'd put Force on it.
Like someone else said above, you can save $ by getting Sram Rival shifters and brakes but get Force Crank and Derailleurs and you wouldn't know the difference. it all boils down to preference and mainly the erognomics of the hoods as this is where you spend most of your time.
#40
Port




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This again!? Really?
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#41
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Bikes: Kestrel RT900SL, 1975 Viner, Specialized StumpJumper
It would stay tuned for 5 or 6 hundred miles then would need adjustment. Before 11's I had Record 10 and never had a problem, before Record 10 I had Ultegra/DA mix on another bike and never ever needed adjustment. I don't know why this is happening but what I do know is that it gets annoying with the mis-shifts and all.
#42
SRAM's not very good. I'm at 9000 mi now. I've had adjust the barrel cable tension adjusters twice just to keep it in tune. What kind of crap is that?
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
In contrast, I test-rode a DA (7800), paying $35 for a demo-ride, and on the rear-shifts, I had to double-down-shift and upshift-one to get a single-cog downshift in the middle cogs. That was waay better, than this crappy Red I bought, because I prefer riding stuff that comes out of adjustment easily, and somebody charges me to give me a learning experience.
Exact same reason I switched from 105 to Force. 105 was seriously a nightmare.
#43
Senior Member

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From: Wisconsin
Bikes: Lemond Arrivee, Felt F1 Road, Tomac Revolver(full), GT race (hardtail)
Force...I am setting up my 3 SRAM bike... was a Campy fan for years... will say the newer Shimano is looking better though I still don't like moving the brake lever to shift.
#44
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Joined: Apr 2008
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I recommend Red shifters because of the Zero Loss on the right shifter.
The Red FD is flexy and not as good as the Force/Rival FD, which are the same except for the finish. Rival/Force FD are the same weight.
Force cranks because you get the BB30 option and you also get some decent weight savings over Rival cranks. Red cranks are just too expensive.
The Force RD is good because it saves a bit of weight for just a bit more than a Rival RD. A Red RD save even more weight, but it costly. And don't get fooled by the ceramic bearings that Red has, they don't do that much.
KMC chain because a lot of people recommend it. I've heard it's a good chain for the price. You don't have to get the SL chain, but it adds a bit of bling and saves weight.
Red cassette because of the weight savings. You could go with a DA cassette.
I recommend the Planet X brakes because they cost about the same as Force brakes, but are much lighter. I've heard good things about them and if you're worried about stopping power, get some Kool Stops.
The Red FD is flexy and not as good as the Force/Rival FD, which are the same except for the finish. Rival/Force FD are the same weight.
Force cranks because you get the BB30 option and you also get some decent weight savings over Rival cranks. Red cranks are just too expensive.
The Force RD is good because it saves a bit of weight for just a bit more than a Rival RD. A Red RD save even more weight, but it costly. And don't get fooled by the ceramic bearings that Red has, they don't do that much.
KMC chain because a lot of people recommend it. I've heard it's a good chain for the price. You don't have to get the SL chain, but it adds a bit of bling and saves weight.
Red cassette because of the weight savings. You could go with a DA cassette.
I recommend the Planet X brakes because they cost about the same as Force brakes, but are much lighter. I've heard good things about them and if you're worried about stopping power, get some Kool Stops.
Last edited by ptle; 10-18-10 at 07:38 PM.
#49
I'm so happy I've found other people in this. Everyone I know seems to think 105 is fine, but ever since I've had this bike with 105 it's been a disaster. I seriously cannot wait for a new ride w/ sram components, all because of the horrible experience I've had with this bike w/ 105.
#50
Go, Dog. Go!
Joined: Oct 2009
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From: SoCal
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team; '11 PedalForce QS3
I assume you meant shifter ergo. Two gear sweep vs. three gears? Okay, though it hasn't made much of a difference to me at all. Actually, both of the benefits you cite are subjective enough that all you can say is it's better for you. Not objectively better.




