stuck pedal
#1
Thread Starter
NOOB
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
stuck pedal
I'm changing out pedals and I just can't get my left pedal out. The right came out easily (and I know the left is reverse threaded so I am turning it clockwise (or towards the back of the bike). I'm giving it my all with my wrench, hammer, monkeywrench, you name it. It's also ridiculously hard to hold everything steady (like the other pedal arm) while trying to do this. Never had his trouble with my mtb. any ideas?
#2
モㄥ工匕モ 爪モ爪乃モ尺
Joined: Feb 2010
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From: LA San Gabriel, California
Bikes: Custom frame
Idk if you can possilble do this. But you might have cross threaded it, Or your crank arm threads where bad in the first place. Next time use lub. All i can say is what ever your doing. Its wrong.
#4
Thread Starter
NOOB
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
the other pedal was stock. i just bought it used from someone who never did anything mechanical to it. Is there a fix it method or should I cave and take it to a shop and have them charge my arm for it?
#5
Thread Starter
NOOB
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
well the other wasnt rusty. i did lube what i could (inner end) but nothing. I'll have to find a pipe somewhere. I rent, so I'll probably have to keep an eye out for a scrap outside someone's house lol
#6
HEAT, so long as its not a carbon crank, otherwise some type of penetrating oil, I preffer pb blaster although worcestershire sauce works pretty good also. you may need to reinstall the right pedal and have someone stand on it to balance it out while you crank on it. make sure when you install your new pedals that you use a bunch of grease on the threads to avoid this next time.
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2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
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2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
#7
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I just changed the pedals on my old mountain bike. They were rusted in place. I sprayed penetrating oil on them on both ends and let it sit for 10 minutes. Then I placed my wren on the pedal so that the wrench handle was angled towards the center of the crank. By angling it that way, you apply more torque to turn the pedal rather than turn the crank. Then I just hit it hard with my 3# rubber mallet. After about 2 good whacks, it came loose.
#8
Thread Starter
NOOB
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
hmm heat. I'll use a hair dryer or something. Never heard of worch sauce on a bike, but what the hell. that's my plan B. and yes when i get these out, they'll get thoroughly cleaned and lubed.
#9
not sure a hair dryer will do it, I was thinking more like a torch, thats what mechanics do on cars when theres a stuck bolt.
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2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
2010 Kestrel RT900SL, 800k carbon, chorus/record, speedplay, zonda
2000 litespeed Unicoi Ti, XTR,XT, Campy crank, time atac, carbon forks
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 7,037
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From: Eugene, Oregon
Sometimes it helps to first torque it the wrong way; that is, first attempt to tighten it slightly. It won't get any tighter, but may break some of whatever is causing it to stick. Lubricant and heat are also useful.
#11
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A hair drier is not enough heat. You need to use at least a propane torch. It has to be hot enough to expand the metal and turn away any crud in the threads. Usually you want to get it red hot.
Of course doing so would probably fry the bearings in your pedal. Also it will likely damage the paint on your crank if it is painted.
I would only use heat as a last resort on a bicycle. Another thing you can do is after you get your wrench on the pedal, place a nice 3' pipe over the wrench to give you more leverage.
Of course doing so would probably fry the bearings in your pedal. Also it will likely damage the paint on your crank if it is painted.
I would only use heat as a last resort on a bicycle. Another thing you can do is after you get your wrench on the pedal, place a nice 3' pipe over the wrench to give you more leverage.
#12
well hello there

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The bigger the pedal wrench the better.
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#14
#15
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From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
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I'm changing out pedals and I just can't get my left pedal out. The right came out easily (and I know the left is reverse threaded so I am turning it clockwise (or towards the back of the bike). I'm giving it my all with my wrench, hammer, monkeywrench, you name it. It's also ridiculously hard to hold everything steady (like the other pedal arm) while trying to do this. Never had his trouble with my mtb. any ideas?
Left crank arm should be at 9:00 - 10:00 position. Pedal wrench should be about 2:00-3:00 position. Lean on both at the same time.
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#17
OMC


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From: South Louisiana
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+1. My original pedals were installed by the shop from which I bought the bike; when I tried to change them out myself, I put some serious habeus grabus on the left one (yes, I was going clockwise) and it wouldn't budge. I took it into a shop near my house and they finally broke it loose, using a four-foot piece of pipe. The right one came right off with no problem. The threads on the new pedals were well greased before installation.
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Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
Regards,
Chuck
Demain, on roule!
#18
Thread Starter
NOOB
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
what i meant was holding the opposite crank arm steady. I'm not using a repair stand or anything so it's upside down on the ground while i'm trying to stabilize everything. i'll try to find a pipe soon
#21
penetrating oil. apply liberally and let it sit for a few hours. to free a stuck thread like that its sometimes necessary to use the "impact" method. sharp, concise blows with a dead blow hammer to the pedal wrench should free it.
if you are not confident in your ability or you lack the tools/space to do all this though, a lbs trip may be the best bet.
if you are not confident in your ability or you lack the tools/space to do all this though, a lbs trip may be the best bet.
#22
pan y agua

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Standing on the pedal wrench/cheater bar if necessary.
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#23
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Put the bike right side up, leaning against a wall. You're making things difficult for yourself.
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#24
Sua Ku
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#25
Thread Starter
NOOB
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Seattle
Bikes: Diamondback MTB, Trek 1000
ok finally! it took some serious muscle and some dangerous wrench flying, but it's off. When i put the other ones on, is Park Tool Polylube a good grease for it? I figure anything would work. I have Triflow already





