Inexpensive Frameset Recommendations
#26
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 159
Likes: 2
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Bikes: 3Rensho Super Record Export, Zunow Z-1, Andy Gilmour Breakaway, Sycip 26er
Hey neneboricua,
I am in the middle of buying a new bike/frame myself and will probably sell my current frameset afterwards. It's an 09' Caad9-5 52cm in black/red (check my sig link). I got it for a great deal here on BF and am looking to pass it on to a fellow member; about $300 as that seems to be your range. I'll keep you posted.
I am in the middle of buying a new bike/frame myself and will probably sell my current frameset afterwards. It's an 09' Caad9-5 52cm in black/red (check my sig link). I got it for a great deal here on BF and am looking to pass it on to a fellow member; about $300 as that seems to be your range. I'll keep you posted.
#27
Here's a cheap one:
https://cgi.ebay.com/Aster-Road-Bike-...item3f0307cf7d
Those Nashbar frames look like a good deal, but the top tubes seem really short.
https://cgi.ebay.com/Aster-Road-Bike-...item3f0307cf7d
Those Nashbar frames look like a good deal, but the top tubes seem really short.
#29
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team Pro
Thanks irvri! That would be awesome! Hopefully it will work out.
I noticed the same thing about the Nashbar frames. The geometry is totally different than any of my other bikes. If I can't find anything else, I might end up going with the Motobecane from Bike Island. At least its geometry is closer to my main bike.
I noticed the Aster on eBay. Had never heard of that brand before, but I'm guessing its just a generic re-badged frame. I would rather have a name brand used frame than a generic new frame just because I know that reputable brands have good quality control processes (just for piece of mind). But it is one to consider.
Thanks,
neneboricua
I noticed the same thing about the Nashbar frames. The geometry is totally different than any of my other bikes. If I can't find anything else, I might end up going with the Motobecane from Bike Island. At least its geometry is closer to my main bike.
I noticed the Aster on eBay. Had never heard of that brand before, but I'm guessing its just a generic re-badged frame. I would rather have a name brand used frame than a generic new frame just because I know that reputable brands have good quality control processes (just for piece of mind). But it is one to consider.
Thanks,
neneboricua
#30
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,979
Likes: 1,154
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
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#31
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 130
Likes: 1
From: Tomball, Tx
I've built up three of the Nashbar Frames:
Alu-C (Aluminum frame with carbon seatstays, made by Kenisis) $180... I loved this frame! Did 5,000 miles on it in two years and recently found a crack on the right chainstay. I contacted Nashbar and they will replace it. (Their parts have lifetime satisfaction...i'm impressed) Unfortunately they don't carry this exact frame anymore.
While I'm waiting for the credit to buy the new version of this frame, I bought the plain aluminum road frame and swapped out everything. $80 plus shipping and I'm very happy, but I can tell the frame is stiffer and not what I want for randonneuring.
I also built up the Touring frame ($67 plus shipping as a returned item, including front fork!!!) The color is a nice dark green, with three bottle cage mounts, and cantilever brake mounts and rack mounts. I really liked the ride, but it was heavier than the Alu-C build and it just didn't do it for me. It would be a nice true touring frame. The other two frames I used a carbon fork so maybe the touring fork added to the weight feeling, I dunno.
anyway - i think the new frame they have that has carbon seatstays and chainstays looks like a pretty good value for the money.
Alu-C (Aluminum frame with carbon seatstays, made by Kenisis) $180... I loved this frame! Did 5,000 miles on it in two years and recently found a crack on the right chainstay. I contacted Nashbar and they will replace it. (Their parts have lifetime satisfaction...i'm impressed) Unfortunately they don't carry this exact frame anymore.
While I'm waiting for the credit to buy the new version of this frame, I bought the plain aluminum road frame and swapped out everything. $80 plus shipping and I'm very happy, but I can tell the frame is stiffer and not what I want for randonneuring.
I also built up the Touring frame ($67 plus shipping as a returned item, including front fork!!!) The color is a nice dark green, with three bottle cage mounts, and cantilever brake mounts and rack mounts. I really liked the ride, but it was heavier than the Alu-C build and it just didn't do it for me. It would be a nice true touring frame. The other two frames I used a carbon fork so maybe the touring fork added to the weight feeling, I dunno.
anyway - i think the new frame they have that has carbon seatstays and chainstays looks like a pretty good value for the money.
#33
why aluminum?
Heck, if you're considering the nashbar alloy hunk then I've got tange 1 in 53 and reynolds 531 in 52 that would add some soul to your rides.
Why not look for a nicer steel frame for even less?
Heck, if you're considering the nashbar alloy hunk then I've got tange 1 in 53 and reynolds 531 in 52 that would add some soul to your rides.
Why not look for a nicer steel frame for even less?
#36
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team Pro
Not looking for a specific final weight, but would like it to be under 20lbs. This is meant to be more of a learning experience in building up my first bike from scratch. So far, I've got SRAM Rival shifters/derailuers, Aksium wheels with 105 cassette (12-25), 105 compact crank, and an Ultegra chain. Keeping my eyes out for some Rival brakes
My main bike uses a standard double and my commuter/rain bike uses a compact triple, so for this build, I'm going to go with a compact double and use it for climbing really hilly roads with sections around 16-20%. I ride with a very fast group and even though I can climb pretty well, I sometimes find myself fading back trying to keep their high pace on the hills and feel like a bike with a compact might help me spin more and not blow up on those steep pitches. That's also why I was looking for aluminum; the stiffness will help more when climbing.
My main bike uses a standard double and my commuter/rain bike uses a compact triple, so for this build, I'm going to go with a compact double and use it for climbing really hilly roads with sections around 16-20%. I ride with a very fast group and even though I can climb pretty well, I sometimes find myself fading back trying to keep their high pace on the hills and feel like a bike with a compact might help me spin more and not blow up on those steep pitches. That's also why I was looking for aluminum; the stiffness will help more when climbing.
#38
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 1
From: Fredericton, NB, Canada
Bikes: 2010 S1, 2011 F75X
#39
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team Pro
#40
True Temper S3 frames with full carbon fork.
This sale has ended but I'd suggest contacting the seller.
This sale has ended but I'd suggest contacting the seller.
#41
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,430
Likes: 1
From: Fredericton, NB, Canada
Bikes: 2010 S1, 2011 F75X
#42
Honestly, I don't think you will notice much in the way of stiffness from any frame you buy based on these facts (assumptions). I would suggest you move stiffness down the list and look more at geometry and ride quality (of course, aesthetics matter. too). This might open up other options to you.
For the record how much do you weigh?
#43
Super Moderator

Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 21,979
Likes: 1,154
From: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
True Temper S3 frames with full carbon fork.
This sale has ended but I'd suggest contacting the seller.
This sale has ended but I'd suggest contacting the seller.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
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Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#44
Thread Starter
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 183
Likes: 0
From: San Diego, CA
Bikes: '09 Fuji Team Pro
If you're riding a 52cm~54cm and climb well enough how heavy can you be? Also, if you are going with a compact to spin more on steep pitches stiffness will be less a factor.
Honestly, I don't think you will notice much in the way of stiffness from any frame you buy based on these facts (assumptions). I would suggest you move stiffness down the list and look more at geometry and ride quality (of course, aesthetics matter. too). This might open up other options to you.
For the record how much do you weigh?
Honestly, I don't think you will notice much in the way of stiffness from any frame you buy based on these facts (assumptions). I would suggest you move stiffness down the list and look more at geometry and ride quality (of course, aesthetics matter. too). This might open up other options to you.
For the record how much do you weigh?
Since I wanted to build a bike from scratch as a learning experience, I figured I would go with something a little different than what I already have and do an aluminum frame with a compact double. There have been a number of good frames suggested in this thread (thanks everyone!), but my budget isn't super high. I'm looking to spend about $300 for a frameset. So far, I'm down to looking for good buys on ebay/CL or a Motobecane Le Champ frameset from Bike Island.
neneboricua







