2005 S-Works E5 Aluminum vs 2011 Caad 10-5
#1
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2005 S-Works E5 Aluminum vs 2011 Caad 10-5
2005 S-Works E5 (aluminum) - $1500 used. - hopefully i can talk down to 1300-1400
Fork - Carbon C4 - carbon fibre
Shifters - DURA ACE
Brakes calipers - ULTEGRA
Crank/Cassette/Chain - DURA ACE
Hubs/Rims/Tires - Ultegra / Open PRO by Mavic / PRO Race by Michelin
derailleurs - ULTEGRAs
Seat/Post - THOMPSON/ Vitesse Italia
Handle bar/ Stem - RITCHEY WCS pro/ RACE FACE PROdigy
(not sure how many miles but he said it's good condition and will throw in Look pedals for $50)
vs
Caad10-5 (stock 105 parts, except the crank) - $1800 after tax (new) - probably not negotiable during the summer season
Personally I prefer the Caad10 cause the S-works is in red and I am not a fan of the colour red, but with DA on the S-works and much better wheels, which should I get? I will also save $300 if I get the S-Works but are the 2005 DA/ultegra parts outdated (compared to new 105 parts on the CAAD).
Fork - Carbon C4 - carbon fibre
Shifters - DURA ACE
Brakes calipers - ULTEGRA
Crank/Cassette/Chain - DURA ACE
Hubs/Rims/Tires - Ultegra / Open PRO by Mavic / PRO Race by Michelin
derailleurs - ULTEGRAs
Seat/Post - THOMPSON/ Vitesse Italia
Handle bar/ Stem - RITCHEY WCS pro/ RACE FACE PROdigy
(not sure how many miles but he said it's good condition and will throw in Look pedals for $50)
vs
Caad10-5 (stock 105 parts, except the crank) - $1800 after tax (new) - probably not negotiable during the summer season
Personally I prefer the Caad10 cause the S-works is in red and I am not a fan of the colour red, but with DA on the S-works and much better wheels, which should I get? I will also save $300 if I get the S-Works but are the 2005 DA/ultegra parts outdated (compared to new 105 parts on the CAAD).
#2
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2005 S-Works E5 (aluminum) - $1500 used. - hopefully i can talk down to 1300-1400
Fork - Carbon C4 - carbon fibre
Shifters - DURA ACE
Brakes calipers - ULTEGRA
Crank/Cassette/Chain - DURA ACE
Hubs/Rims/Tires - Ultegra / Open PRO by Mavic / PRO Race by Michelin
derailleurs - ULTEGRAs
Seat/Post - THOMPSON/ Vitesse Italia
Handle bar/ Stem - RITCHEY WCS pro/ RACE FACE PROdigy
(not sure how many miles but he said it's good condition and will throw in Look pedals for $50)
vs
Caad10-5 (stock 105 parts, except the crank) - $1800 after tax (new) - probably not negotiable during the summer season
Personally I prefer the Caad10 cause the S-works is in red and I am not a fan of the colour red, but with DA on the S-works and much better wheels, which should I get? I will also save $300 if I get the S-Works but are the 2005 DA/ultegra parts outdated (compared to new 105 parts on the CAAD).
Fork - Carbon C4 - carbon fibre
Shifters - DURA ACE
Brakes calipers - ULTEGRA
Crank/Cassette/Chain - DURA ACE
Hubs/Rims/Tires - Ultegra / Open PRO by Mavic / PRO Race by Michelin
derailleurs - ULTEGRAs
Seat/Post - THOMPSON/ Vitesse Italia
Handle bar/ Stem - RITCHEY WCS pro/ RACE FACE PROdigy
(not sure how many miles but he said it's good condition and will throw in Look pedals for $50)
vs
Caad10-5 (stock 105 parts, except the crank) - $1800 after tax (new) - probably not negotiable during the summer season
Personally I prefer the Caad10 cause the S-works is in red and I am not a fan of the colour red, but with DA on the S-works and much better wheels, which should I get? I will also save $300 if I get the S-Works but are the 2005 DA/ultegra parts outdated (compared to new 105 parts on the CAAD).
This pretty much made your decision. Go with the Cannondale. The S-works is already 5-6 years old with Dura-Ace notwithstanding.
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Just to muddy the waters. The 2011 Allez Frameset is an E5 alloy. Upgrade the fork and you're on your way if you like the looks of the Specialized. Personally, I prefer the red Cannondale Caad 10. Hot. Bike.
#4
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s-works is a nice bike, but its too old, parts on it are outdated and worn. The cannondale is the smarter buy, plus you get the warranty. If you go one step up with the Rival, you will get a lighter bike. Rival group is slightly lighter than Ultegra.
#5
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Yup, I picked up my frame used for $135 and the components are outdated. I sold my 2003 Fuji Superlite w/ Dura Ace back in 2009 for $650. He's trying to sell it for twice its worth. Great bike, but not worth that much unless it's been sitting unridden in a box until now.
#8
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I say go new. You'll get the fit you want, a little service, and shinyness.
That said, I find it mildly entertaining that a bike that generated tons of drool in 2005 is "meh" today.
That said, I find it mildly entertaining that a bike that generated tons of drool in 2005 is "meh" today.
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^
I know what you mean, haha. We don't get many new bikes at our bike store, so I often work on bikes from the 90s, and even the 80s. So 2005 sounds brand spanking new to me lol.
Thanks for the replies. It's clear that I should go with the 'modern technology'.
I know what you mean, haha. We don't get many new bikes at our bike store, so I often work on bikes from the 90s, and even the 80s. So 2005 sounds brand spanking new to me lol.
Thanks for the replies. It's clear that I should go with the 'modern technology'.
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That S-Works frame is so much better than a Caad-9 frame.
I had the 03 version of that frame, but alas, it was destroyed in a crash. I replaced it with a 2010 Caad-9. The Caad-9 is ok, but not near as much fun as that S-Works was. It's kind of pedestrian by comparison.
I had the 03 version of that frame, but alas, it was destroyed in a crash. I replaced it with a 2010 Caad-9. The Caad-9 is ok, but not near as much fun as that S-Works was. It's kind of pedestrian by comparison.
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You should see if they'd be willing to work with a newer groupset on that E5 (they probably don't want to sit on an old dura ace/ultegra kit, though) and see what they'd charge for new 105 perhaps. That really is a nice, nice frame. I think I might do a little test this weekend where I take out my E5 and then take out a new Allez with the tapered headtube for a comparison.
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The S-Works E5 was light years ahead of its time, and probably doesn't give up much to the CAAD 10 in terms of weight or performance. However you can find them for ~$1k if you look around. I got mine new old stock for $1k with full Ultegra.
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#16
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The scale has definitely been tipped back in favour of the E5.
Funny thing is though, after ONE day, he dropped the price to $1400 (local classifieds). Sounds like getting it down to $1200 might be possible, if not lower.
Since this is from a local classifieds, I can't ask to swap out parts. However, I can get a new 105 groupset for around $600 and that adds up to roughly the same price as the Caad10, but i'll be left with a bunch of spare old DA/ultegra parts, which I doubt anybody would buy (or I could use it on a beater).
At first, I didn't think of the bike to be much of a looker but after save10's picture, I am convinced it's one hell of a beauty... or maybe it's cause of the Reynolds/newer parts/lighting of the picture. What parts are you running on that?
Here's a picture of it (non drive side pic.. sigh). It's a 50cm frame (i'm 5'7", with a 29" inseam, so I think it'll be a good fit). So what do you guys think I should do now? Should I wait a week and see if he'll drop the price even further?
VERSUS:
Random pic of a caad10-4 i pulled off google. Credits to the original owner.
Funny thing is though, after ONE day, he dropped the price to $1400 (local classifieds). Sounds like getting it down to $1200 might be possible, if not lower.
Since this is from a local classifieds, I can't ask to swap out parts. However, I can get a new 105 groupset for around $600 and that adds up to roughly the same price as the Caad10, but i'll be left with a bunch of spare old DA/ultegra parts, which I doubt anybody would buy (or I could use it on a beater).
At first, I didn't think of the bike to be much of a looker but after save10's picture, I am convinced it's one hell of a beauty... or maybe it's cause of the Reynolds/newer parts/lighting of the picture. What parts are you running on that?
Here's a picture of it (non drive side pic.. sigh). It's a 50cm frame (i'm 5'7", with a 29" inseam, so I think it'll be a good fit). So what do you guys think I should do now? Should I wait a week and see if he'll drop the price even further?
VERSUS:
Random pic of a caad10-4 i pulled off google. Credits to the original owner.
Last edited by Kurogashi; 06-23-11 at 01:41 PM.
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50cm might be a tad too small. However it all depends on your proportions, your arms may not be as long as mine. I ride a 52cm.
Ride the E-5 and find out.
Ride the E-5 and find out.
#20
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I just did a quick measurement (approximately +/- 1 inch from each category..) for the fit calculator on competitive cyclist and I got:
Competitive fit | Eddy fit | French fit (this is in cm)
Seat tube range c-c: 47.7 - 48.2 | 48.9 - 49.4 | 50.6 - 51.1
Seat tube range c-t: 49.2 - 49.7 | 50.4 - 50.9 | 52.1 - 52.6
Top tube length : 61.6 - 62.0 | 61.6 - 62.0 | 62.8 - 63.2
Stem Length : 12.9 - 13.5 | 11.8 - 12.4 | 12.0 - 12.6
BB-Saddle Position : 62.8 - 64.8 |62.0 - 64.0 | 60.3 - 62.3
Saddle-Handlebar : 61.2 - 61.8 | 62.0 - 62.6 | 63.7 - 64.3
Saddle Setback : 3.3 - 3.7 | 4.5 - 4.9 | 4.0 - 4.4
According to specialized, the 50cm geometry is:
Size: 50 cm
Stand Over Height: 706mm
Top Tube Length: 525mm
Head Tube Length: 100mm
Head Angle : 72.5°
Seat Angle : 75.0°
Wheel Base : 971mm
Chain Stay Length: 405mm
Front Center : 577mm
Fork Offset : 45mm
Saddle Width : 130mm
What do you guys think? Is a 50cm a 'good' fit?
I guess I should make an appointment to test ride a Caad10 first and then after that, call up this guy and try the e5.
Last edited by Kurogashi; 06-23-11 at 01:25 PM.
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Reynolds DV46UL tubulars - Racing wheels that I swap between bikes for racing only
The post/saddle and cockpit - thomson, selle italia SLR, Ritchey WCS - the same as I have on all my road bikes
also...that's not the stock fork. its a Ritchey WCS stem...approx 300 g uncut. The stock fork is like 500g uncut
Not saying its cheap....but its really really good
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I sold my 2005 E5 a few months ago for $950. It was similarly equipped to the one you're looking at. If not for an offer for a new bike that I couldn't pass up, I would still be on the SWorks.
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Rival/Force - new off EBay, but shopped for lowest prices I could find
Reynolds DV46UL tubulars - Racing wheels that I swap between bikes for racing only
The post/saddle and cockpit - thomson, selle italia SLR, Ritchey WCS - the same as I have on all my road bikes
also...that's not the stock fork. its a Ritchey WCS stem...approx 300 g uncut. The stock fork is like 500g uncut
Not saying its cheap....but its really really good
Reynolds DV46UL tubulars - Racing wheels that I swap between bikes for racing only
The post/saddle and cockpit - thomson, selle italia SLR, Ritchey WCS - the same as I have on all my road bikes
also...that's not the stock fork. its a Ritchey WCS stem...approx 300 g uncut. The stock fork is like 500g uncut
Not saying its cheap....but its really really good
If you can get it for a grand or less I'd go for it. You can take the extra $800 + tax you saved compared to the Cannondale and put it towards upgrades/shoes/helmets....
#25
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But how is the geometry looking like for me? I posted the stats above ravenmore's bike pics (which looks really good btw).
Wow so the stock fork is pretty good (350ish grams, that's pretty light). But I am guessing save10's Ritchey WCS fork is light years better (that thing cost $450 new).
Getting it down to $1000 may be tricky.. I guess I can always try the 'oh there's a scratch there, oh there too' kind of bull****, and get it down to maybe $1100. But I suck at negotiating, so it may not go so smoothly.
First thing though, I would replace the ugly aluminum seat post/bottle cage.
Wow so the stock fork is pretty good (350ish grams, that's pretty light). But I am guessing save10's Ritchey WCS fork is light years better (that thing cost $450 new).
Getting it down to $1000 may be tricky.. I guess I can always try the 'oh there's a scratch there, oh there too' kind of bull****, and get it down to maybe $1100. But I suck at negotiating, so it may not go so smoothly.
First thing though, I would replace the ugly aluminum seat post/bottle cage.