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Numb Hands

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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Numb Hands

Old 10-03-11, 01:56 PM
  #26  
Fiery
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Originally Posted by dissident View Post
excellent pictures. This thread I linked too has really helped me out, but in the process of doing what has been suggested I find I now need a longer stem on my comfort oriented Felt Z85 so I've ordered one. I didn't think I'd want to be low as a bike noob, but it seemed to really increase power naturally and without pain.. but with the need suddenly of a longer stem.. when in position I can see the hubs in front of the handlebars and feel like I need more stem length... perhaps because of the way that particular comfort frame is designed. Anywho going from 110 to 130 or 140 and reevaluating. There seems to be more then ample room to turn a comfort bike into an aggressive one and vice versa as a bike noob. Once I figure out what I really like, if what I like trends towards being lower and more aero, I'll keep that in mind should the time come to upgrade. That's a ways off yet though. My LBS wasn't all that helpful in all honesty. But hey the first bike is always a learning experience. I'd never have wanted the aggressive riding bike at the time

https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tion-Discovery
As far as I can see on the respective manufacturers' websites, the Z85 headtube is as long as the one on Specialized Tarmac in the same size, with the top tube being marginally longer on the Tarmac (and by "marginally" I mean 3 to 5 millimetres). It is somewhat less aggressive, but I wouldn't call it a comfort bike by any means.

Sounds more like you've got the wrong sized frame for your body size/proportions.
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Old 10-03-11, 02:31 PM
  #27  
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compact handlebar and try riding without padded gloves or no gloves
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Old 10-09-11, 10:27 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Werkin View Post
I prefer 46cm width, which narrows options even further in 31.8 clamp size. I've been using this bar recently https://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=3&pk=1838. The 100mm reach XL has more room for wide hands than continuous bend compact bars. It is not available from US vendors at this time.
Yeah, that does look good. I wish all manufacturers provided engineering drawings of the bar like that.
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Old 04-01-12, 08:57 AM
  #29  
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Great thread. I'm new to riding and had bad numbness this morning. Will try some of the tips here. Great info.
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Old 04-01-12, 12:50 PM
  #30  
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Great thread. I'm new to riding and had bad numbness this morning. Will try some of the tips here. Great info.
In particular, pay attention to the post by DannoXYZ (# 7 in this thread). Extremely helpful and informative. Last year I took up cycling after 35+ off the bike, and I was having severe problems with hand numbness. One year later, I have the problem largely under control, and the tips by DannoXYZ have played a large role in this. Also, getting a bike which fit me correctly, and doing an exercise program this past winter to strengthen my core muscles.
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Old 04-23-12, 12:32 AM
  #31  
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For what its worth, I tried many things to reduce numb hands/fingers and it turned out to be my gloves causing the problem.
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Old 08-03-12, 09:38 AM
  #32  
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Thank you so much for your detailed and exhasustive post. With my Giant-Sedona (17 years old) but good durable bike, I definately need to change hadlebars. It has the short straight out, big tappered bars and they added another pair which branches forward about 3-4 in. and then parallels the original (probably for standing on pedal maneuvers) but none that go way out so you can lay down and stop making a sail out of your body. This would help on relieving weight pressure and I actually find it better to slide back on my seat significantly to get the most power out of my pedaling, so for me a set back could have a two fold benefit. My hands get so numb I lose feeling and can't maintain a hold of bars or shift gears and that is with moving hands around constanly and putting them down at side periodically and shaking them out.
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Old 01-04-15, 08:08 AM
  #33  
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i have numbness only on my left hand, usually in my fingers going towards my pinky. i thought maybe it was from my dislocated shoulder healing. i will switch up during the ride but it can creep up in under 20 miles easily. i was properly fitted at time of purchase and have not changed any of those specs but will talk to LBS again.

high fives to DannoXYZ for that post!
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Old 04-14-17, 10:28 PM
  #34  
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Great thread, esp. post by DannoXYZ.
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Old 04-15-17, 09:49 AM
  #35  
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I am somewhat of an ultra distance rider so I use to get hand numbness on some of ultra rando rides like 400k 600k and 1200k rides which sometimes left my hands numb for a couple of days after. This is what I did that helped some. Double wrapped my handlebars or there is a new wrap out there that is more padded that helps and deaden the tires in the front end. I run 120 - 125 psi in the rear and only 100 - 105 psi up front. It helps take some of the road vibration out. You can also move your hands around a lot more on the bars and I go to the middle on climbs and other times during the ride.
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Old 08-18-17, 06:27 AM
  #36  
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I just had my Trek 56cm frame replaced under warranty for breakage. They sent me a 58cm. I have no idea why, but now no hand numbness, and saddle discomfort is pretty much all gone. The rest of the equipment (gloves, clothes, components etc) all remained the same ((shrugs))

Matt
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Old 08-18-17, 08:06 AM
  #37  
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Another trick is when riding with your hands on the top of the bar, make sure that your thumbs go under the bar, and not rest on top alongside your hand. This reduces pressure on the nerve, and helps reduce numbness.

I discovered quite by accident, as I am running a flat bar on my folder. I have an 11 speed kit, and shift up and down regularly as I ride. I noticed that my right hand was getting numb, and my left hand was not. The difference was entirely because I was keeping my thumb on top of the bar to actuate the shifter. After making a conscious effort to keep both hands in the same position as much as possible, my right hand is no longer getting numb.
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Old 08-20-17, 09:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by awesomeame View Post
I just had my Trek 56cm frame replaced under warranty for breakage. They sent me a 58cm. I have no idea why, but now no hand numbness, and saddle discomfort is pretty much all gone. The rest of the equipment (gloves, clothes, components etc) all remained the same ((shrugs))

Matt

That probably means you were riding on too short of a frame before but if it works stick with it.

Zman
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Old 07-19-21, 02:32 PM
  #39  
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That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
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Old 07-19-21, 02:39 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by lindaket View Post
That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
Which one?
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Old 07-19-21, 02:44 PM
  #41  
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Probably the one that had their hands amputated since they didn't get the information till 10 years later.
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Old 07-19-21, 03:31 PM
  #42  
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Zombies don't suffer from carpal tunnel
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Old 07-19-21, 03:40 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by lindaket View Post
That sound like a possible carpal tunnel, you might want to get that checked. Also, PMFT devices help with that.
Carpal Tunnel is index, middle, and half of ring finger. Ulnar nerve is the little finger and the other half of the ring finger.

Wrong thread. Sorry. Go on about your business.
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Last edited by genejockey; 07-19-21 at 03:45 PM.
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