Need help with Ribble build please!
07-24-11 | 10:59 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: Reading, United Kingdom
Bikes: Giant FCR2
Need help with Ribble build please!
Hi all,
I am looking to upgrade from the Giant FCR2 I have had for 6 months now to either a Ribble New Sportive 2011 or a Ribble Sportive Bianco. Now having the choice of choosing all of the components is losing me a little bit, this is where you all come in with your limitless knowledge and combined opinions.
I am going for 105 5700 10 spd. There is the choice for a 5600 cassette on that, 11-25, 11-28, 12-25, 12-27 being the choices from there. After doing a little research I can see that the last number equates to a lower granny gear but the first? I live in a bumpy area rather than a monstrous mountain area so what would be best for I?
Then the chainset ranges from 34-50 compact chainsets in 2.5 increments starting from 170 upto 175 or 39-53 in the same increments. Difference between a compact chain set and normal? Guessing the 170 measurement is the length of the chain,on a motorcycle if you remove a link then you get better acceleration but may lose a bit on the top end, is this the same equation?
Pro lite como clincher wheels or ITM Aero 2.4 wheels, the latter saving me .283kg in weight. Anyone with any experience with either?
Bars in measurements 42-44-46? I am looking to get a fit done so this may answer a lot of the questions for me, but is this the width of the bars? What effect does this have?
Stem in 10mm increments, I had a quick fit at my LBS and they recommended a 100mm for me, with a 15 gap from stem to seat. Does that sound right or is that something you cannot justify from text?
ANY help is appreciated, I know I am practically asking you guys to build a bike for me but I am not going to spend this amount of money without doing some decent research and asking around.
If anyone has any alternatives in the 1k range then feel free to put them forward to with similar spec.
Cheers,
Jack
I am looking to upgrade from the Giant FCR2 I have had for 6 months now to either a Ribble New Sportive 2011 or a Ribble Sportive Bianco. Now having the choice of choosing all of the components is losing me a little bit, this is where you all come in with your limitless knowledge and combined opinions.
I am going for 105 5700 10 spd. There is the choice for a 5600 cassette on that, 11-25, 11-28, 12-25, 12-27 being the choices from there. After doing a little research I can see that the last number equates to a lower granny gear but the first? I live in a bumpy area rather than a monstrous mountain area so what would be best for I?
Then the chainset ranges from 34-50 compact chainsets in 2.5 increments starting from 170 upto 175 or 39-53 in the same increments. Difference between a compact chain set and normal? Guessing the 170 measurement is the length of the chain,on a motorcycle if you remove a link then you get better acceleration but may lose a bit on the top end, is this the same equation?
Pro lite como clincher wheels or ITM Aero 2.4 wheels, the latter saving me .283kg in weight. Anyone with any experience with either?
Bars in measurements 42-44-46? I am looking to get a fit done so this may answer a lot of the questions for me, but is this the width of the bars? What effect does this have?
Stem in 10mm increments, I had a quick fit at my LBS and they recommended a 100mm for me, with a 15 gap from stem to seat. Does that sound right or is that something you cannot justify from text?
ANY help is appreciated, I know I am practically asking you guys to build a bike for me but I am not going to spend this amount of money without doing some decent research and asking around.
If anyone has any alternatives in the 1k range then feel free to put them forward to with similar spec.
Cheers,
Jack
07-24-11 | 11:44 AM
#2
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Hi all,
I am looking to upgrade from the Giant FCR2 I have had for 6 months now to either a Ribble New Sportive 2011 or a Ribble Sportive Bianco. Now having the choice of choosing all of the components is losing me a little bit, this is where you all come in with your limitless knowledge and combined opinions.
I am going for 105 5700 10 spd. There is the choice for a 5600 cassette on that, 11-25, 11-28, 12-25, 12-27 being the choices from there. After doing a little research I can see that the last number equates to a lower granny gear but the first? I live in a bumpy area rather than a monstrous mountain area so what would be best for I?
The second number is the largest cog on the cassette. You're correct in thinking that is going to be easier to pedal. The first number is the smallest cog. That's the hardest gear to push, and will be useful on fast descents or long flat segments. There are obviously 10 gears on the cassette, so a cassette with a wider range will not be as continuous. That can be good if you live in a mountainous area or have long hills where the large rear cog will be a much-needed help. The disadvantage of a wider cassette is that it's not as easy to fine-tune gear selection to maintain a constant cadence. The derailleur will also probably not shift quite as crisply, but that's a very, very minor secondary concern. A wider cassette is nice to have. I would go for the 12-27. I have a CAAD10 with a 11-25 cassette and don't have much trouble with the hills, but I'm young and in good shape.
Then the chainset ranges from 34-50 compact chainsets in 2.5 increments starting from 170 upto 175 or 39-53 in the same increments. Difference between a compact chain set and normal? Guessing the 170 measurement is the length of the chain,on a motorcycle if you remove a link then you get better acceleration but may lose a bit on the top end, is this the same equation?
I would get a 50-34 compact crankset. That gives you a nice, easy gear range that will be suitable for most situations. A 53-39 is called a "standard" and doesn't offer quite the range, especially when you're on a climb. The 170, 172.5, 175 mm number is the length of the crankarm. This is a personal preference -- everyone likes something a little different and the ideal number can depending on your leg length, riding style.
Pro lite como clincher wheels or ITM Aero 2.4 wheels, the latter saving me .283kg in weight. Anyone with any experience with either?
sorry, no idea about those wheels.
Bars in measurements 42-44-46? I am looking to get a fit done so this may answer a lot of the questions for me, but is this the width of the bars? What effect does this have?
Yes, that is the width of the bars -- you may notice a difference if you have narrower/broader shoulders. The idea is to mate bars with the body so that you aren't too stretched out.
You are correct that a fit will iron all of these problems out. I would not be surprised if you end up getting a different stem and/or bars after a fitting, or as your flexibility and strength improve. These costs are a little bit necessary, and you may be able to work with your bikeshop to swap the parts when you get fitted.
Stem in 10mm increments, I had a quick fit at my LBS and they recommended a 100mm for me, with a 15 gap from stem to seat. Does that sound right or is that something you cannot justify from text?
Totally depends on fit and your body. A really short stem (<80 mm) can indicate a poor fit. Same with a really long stem. the 15 gap number is the degrees of drop/rise (stem is reversible) and again depends on your body and flexibility. You will likely switch stems as you get stronger.
ANY help is appreciated, I know I am practically asking you guys to build a bike for me but I am not going to spend this amount of money without doing some decent research and asking around.
If anyone has any alternatives in the 1k range then feel free to put them forward to with similar spec.
Cheers,
Jack
I am looking to upgrade from the Giant FCR2 I have had for 6 months now to either a Ribble New Sportive 2011 or a Ribble Sportive Bianco. Now having the choice of choosing all of the components is losing me a little bit, this is where you all come in with your limitless knowledge and combined opinions.
I am going for 105 5700 10 spd. There is the choice for a 5600 cassette on that, 11-25, 11-28, 12-25, 12-27 being the choices from there. After doing a little research I can see that the last number equates to a lower granny gear but the first? I live in a bumpy area rather than a monstrous mountain area so what would be best for I?
The second number is the largest cog on the cassette. You're correct in thinking that is going to be easier to pedal. The first number is the smallest cog. That's the hardest gear to push, and will be useful on fast descents or long flat segments. There are obviously 10 gears on the cassette, so a cassette with a wider range will not be as continuous. That can be good if you live in a mountainous area or have long hills where the large rear cog will be a much-needed help. The disadvantage of a wider cassette is that it's not as easy to fine-tune gear selection to maintain a constant cadence. The derailleur will also probably not shift quite as crisply, but that's a very, very minor secondary concern. A wider cassette is nice to have. I would go for the 12-27. I have a CAAD10 with a 11-25 cassette and don't have much trouble with the hills, but I'm young and in good shape.
Then the chainset ranges from 34-50 compact chainsets in 2.5 increments starting from 170 upto 175 or 39-53 in the same increments. Difference between a compact chain set and normal? Guessing the 170 measurement is the length of the chain,on a motorcycle if you remove a link then you get better acceleration but may lose a bit on the top end, is this the same equation?
I would get a 50-34 compact crankset. That gives you a nice, easy gear range that will be suitable for most situations. A 53-39 is called a "standard" and doesn't offer quite the range, especially when you're on a climb. The 170, 172.5, 175 mm number is the length of the crankarm. This is a personal preference -- everyone likes something a little different and the ideal number can depending on your leg length, riding style.
Pro lite como clincher wheels or ITM Aero 2.4 wheels, the latter saving me .283kg in weight. Anyone with any experience with either?
sorry, no idea about those wheels.
Bars in measurements 42-44-46? I am looking to get a fit done so this may answer a lot of the questions for me, but is this the width of the bars? What effect does this have?
Yes, that is the width of the bars -- you may notice a difference if you have narrower/broader shoulders. The idea is to mate bars with the body so that you aren't too stretched out.
You are correct that a fit will iron all of these problems out. I would not be surprised if you end up getting a different stem and/or bars after a fitting, or as your flexibility and strength improve. These costs are a little bit necessary, and you may be able to work with your bikeshop to swap the parts when you get fitted.
Stem in 10mm increments, I had a quick fit at my LBS and they recommended a 100mm for me, with a 15 gap from stem to seat. Does that sound right or is that something you cannot justify from text?
Totally depends on fit and your body. A really short stem (<80 mm) can indicate a poor fit. Same with a really long stem. the 15 gap number is the degrees of drop/rise (stem is reversible) and again depends on your body and flexibility. You will likely switch stems as you get stronger.
ANY help is appreciated, I know I am practically asking you guys to build a bike for me but I am not going to spend this amount of money without doing some decent research and asking around.
If anyone has any alternatives in the 1k range then feel free to put them forward to with similar spec.
Cheers,
Jack
Good luck!
07-24-11 | 11:46 AM
#3
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,332
Likes: 2
From: San Francisco
Bikes: 1989 Team Miyata, 1989 Miyata 1400, 1989 Miyata 1400, 1986 Miyata 610, 2007 Specialized Stumpjumper Hardtail
You have a lot to learn about road bikes. What is it you don't like about your Giant?
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