Benefits of lowering handle bars?
#1
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: 2010 Trek 1.1
Benefits of lowering handle bars?
So I got into cycling about 3 or 4 months ago and I feel I am progressing at a smooth pace. I have noticed that in comparison to my bike, most of the others I see have much lower handle bars. I honestly could care less if my bike looks like the others, but obviously people wouldnt have their bikes setup this way if there wasnt an advantage. What are the advantages to having bars so low? More power in the drops? At this point I have very few aches or soreness from riding. Longer rides my neck starts to hurt, which I am trying to straighten my back so there is no "s" shape to my spine, and I'm confused on whether lower the bars would help this as well. If I lower them, is there somethign else I should be adjusting right away as well ie. saddle angle or position (front to back position). I'd imagine the height would stay the same since that has more to do with leg extension/position. I really dont want to take it to the LBS to adjust any of this...I feel like I should be handling this kind of stuff. Pics below show my bike as it sits now. Thanks for any feedback.
#3
More aero position. You can just flip the stem and it will place your handle bars in a lower position. You can also remove the spacers on the steerer tube. You can experiment with different handlebar height and see where you are most omfortable.
#4
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In addition to more aero, here's an interesting discussion on improving form/comfort and related to lowering handlebars. It's long, but there's a lot of good info written and linked.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tion-Discovery
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...tion-Discovery
#5
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From: Dundas, Ontario
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Don't be in a super rush to lower your bars, especially if you are comfortable....
As my fitness has increased my bars have gotten lower, this has occurred over a number of years. The lowering of the bars was also a result of fit adjustments to combat lower back pain. My bars still are no where near as low as some people's, but it works for me...
The thing I notice is that my bars are now at a position that allows me to be comfortable when just tooling along and when racing I just bend over more to achieve the desired aeroness
As my fitness has increased my bars have gotten lower, this has occurred over a number of years. The lowering of the bars was also a result of fit adjustments to combat lower back pain. My bars still are no where near as low as some people's, but it works for me...
The thing I notice is that my bars are now at a position that allows me to be comfortable when just tooling along and when racing I just bend over more to achieve the desired aeroness
Last edited by rbart4506; 07-27-11 at 09:14 AM.
#6
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You can also roll your bars a bit to change the position of the hoods to raise you up or down a little (while riding on the hoods).
So you could flip your current stem, and if the change is too much, you could roll the bars back a bit.
Or just reduce spacers. Some combination of those three adjustments will work for you.
In my opinion: better to be a bit higher and be able to ride comfortably in the drops than to be too low so you don't want to ride the drops, or can't breathe effectively when you are. You are more aero in the drops on higher bars than on the hoods with lower bars.
So you could flip your current stem, and if the change is too much, you could roll the bars back a bit.
Or just reduce spacers. Some combination of those three adjustments will work for you.
In my opinion: better to be a bit higher and be able to ride comfortably in the drops than to be too low so you don't want to ride the drops, or can't breathe effectively when you are. You are more aero in the drops on higher bars than on the hoods with lower bars.
#7
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From: Gulf Breeze, FL
Bikes: Rossetti Vertigo
It would take you 5 minutes to flip that stem and try it out. It will feel weird and maybe a little uncomfortable at first but it does put you in a more aero position and I think a more natural riding position. Since these bikes do not have suspension, leaning forward naturally acts as a shock absorber. If you sit straight up the shock goes straight through your spine as all your weight is directly over the seat. As you lean over, some of your weight is distributed to your arms and handlebars. Bent over your body kind of forms a spring that absorbs impact better.
#8
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From: Near Portland, OR
Bikes: Three road bikes. Two track bikes.
Advantages: better handling (lower center of gravity and more weight on the front wheel), better aerodynamics (less frontal area), more power (engages glutes to augment the quads).
Disadvantages: less comfort.
It can be overdone. Don't be afraid to play around with your position, but if you are significantly past your 20's, go slow with the changes.
Disadvantages: less comfort.
It can be overdone. Don't be afraid to play around with your position, but if you are significantly past your 20's, go slow with the changes.
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"If you’re new enough [to racing] that you would ask such question, then i would hazard a guess that if you just made up a workout that sounded hard to do, and did it, you’d probably get faster." --the tiniest sprinter
#10
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From: Gulf Breeze, FL
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When you flip your stem, it will feel weird. But keep in mind stems are cheap. That one you got looks like it has a pretty steep angle. If that one just feels too low when you flip it, go get a stem that is about 5 degrees and try it. I have bought two stems from iCycles.com, both under $30 each and both work just fine.
#11
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Yes that looks like a 15-20 degree stem. Negative 20 is a LOT. Negative 5-6 is definitely a better place to experiment, or perhaps just reducing it to positive 6.
Flipping the stem is free other than your time, but I fully expect you to hate -20.
Flipping the stem is free other than your time, but I fully expect you to hate -20.
#12
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From: Meffa, MA
Bikes: Tarmac Pro, Bianchi Zurigo, Raleigh Gran Sport, Fuji Del Rey, Ironman Centurion
Comfort also has to do with arm length and dropping and flipping the stem can help or hurt this. I like a lot of drop because otherwise, my shoulders feel like they are jammed up into my neck. Get on a trainer and take a look at yourself in a mirror alongside.
Also remember to keep your elbows bent as you adapt to your new position. The more aggressive you get, the more core strength you use to hold yourself up. If you keep your arms straight instead of using core strength, you will get a lot of fatigue in your neck, elbows and arms (that might be what's happening now) plus you won't have the ability to absorb an unexpected hit to the front wheel.
Also remember to keep your elbows bent as you adapt to your new position. The more aggressive you get, the more core strength you use to hold yourself up. If you keep your arms straight instead of using core strength, you will get a lot of fatigue in your neck, elbows and arms (that might be what's happening now) plus you won't have the ability to absorb an unexpected hit to the front wheel.
#13
Faster than yesterday
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From: Evanston, IL
This. Just raised my bars a tiny bit, and got a slightly shorter stem, after lowering them for a while. The difference? I now feel more comfortable on the drops, and I can still bend my elbows more to get as aero on the hoods as I ever would have been before. Still running about 13 cm of drop, FWIW. Same (or more) aero + more comfort = win.
#14
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: 2010 Trek 1.1
I looked at the archived Trek site for the 2010 1.1 (my bike) it says 15 degree stem. The picture they show sure as $hit isnt 15 degrees though, not that it really makes a difference what they show in the pic.
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2010/archive/11
Oh and what is a Quill Stem (saw it on the icycle website)
https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/2010/archive/11
Oh and what is a Quill Stem (saw it on the icycle website)
Last edited by dieseldogpi; 07-27-11 at 10:50 AM. Reason: Last sentance
#15
Please read the headset adjustment part of this article for some guidance: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eadset-service
You need to apply the preload to the top cap before tightening the stem into place.
#16
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Go to your LBS to test stems
I really think you should defiantly get a new stem, however length and angle are important factors. If you have a good LBS that you purchased your bike from they may have some stems you can test to see if you like. I know the one I go to has a selection of different stem lengths and angles that they will let you use for a week to see what feels best for you. I don't know if that offer is for just anyone off the street or more for ongoing customers/people they just like. This is why it is good to be on good terms with the staff at your LBS.
As far as stem length if you feel yourself sitting more on the nose of the seat then your stem is too long if you sit bones are on the back edge of the seat while riding then your stem is too short. I think you should ride a couple of times for an hour or two to make that assessment and see which give you more back and but comfort. If its wrong you will notice.
I prefer a 5 degree stem turned upside down (-5) with 20mm of spacers.
As far as stem length if you feel yourself sitting more on the nose of the seat then your stem is too long if you sit bones are on the back edge of the seat while riding then your stem is too short. I think you should ride a couple of times for an hour or two to make that assessment and see which give you more back and but comfort. If its wrong you will notice.
I prefer a 5 degree stem turned upside down (-5) with 20mm of spacers.
#17
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From: Long Island, NY
Bikes: 2010 Trek 1.1
Do you know how to do this? The stem applies preload to the steering bearings and you can't just take it apart and out it back without a couple of extra steps.
Please read the headset adjustment part of this article for some guidance: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eadset-service
You need to apply the preload to the top cap before tightening the stem into place.
Please read the headset adjustment part of this article for some guidance: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...eadset-service
You need to apply the preload to the top cap before tightening the stem into place.
#21
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From: Wichita
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Well, that's because the article he linked talks about going much further than just flipping a stem. You do have to take the cap off the steering head, and you do have to adjust the tension properly. But you definitely are not dropping the forks and all that.
Also remember I'm not advocating that you flip this particular stem. It's too much angle. I'm advocating that you buy a shallower degree and try that, first in the positive direction. If you want to go further, try it negative.
The LBS comments are good ones too. You can't go wrong with a good bike shop helping you.
Also remember I'm not advocating that you flip this particular stem. It's too much angle. I'm advocating that you buy a shallower degree and try that, first in the positive direction. If you want to go further, try it negative.
The LBS comments are good ones too. You can't go wrong with a good bike shop helping you.
#22
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From: Long Island, NY
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Yeah, I think going to the LBS to see what my options are might be a good start. whether its taking out a spacer or flipping the stem, it seems like there is some work that would be required that I am not 100% familiar with.
#23
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I recommend you NOT flip that stem as it has too high of an angle.
Instead, buy a cheap stem from your local LBS, and choose one that will give you a -7 degree angle. This will fit your semi-compact frame perfectly. May as well have the LBS install it—probably will take them 5 minutes and may charge you nothing if you buy that new stem from them.
Lowering your riding position will make you more aero and also make easier to stand and pedal (easier on your arms). Your bike will also look sleeker.
Instead, buy a cheap stem from your local LBS, and choose one that will give you a -7 degree angle. This will fit your semi-compact frame perfectly. May as well have the LBS install it—probably will take them 5 minutes and may charge you nothing if you buy that new stem from them.
Lowering your riding position will make you more aero and also make easier to stand and pedal (easier on your arms). Your bike will also look sleeker.
#24
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I agree with those who advised on not flipping the stem given its angle. Removing a spacer is a better way to go since you'll be making a smaller change and as your fitness and flexibility improve over time you can get a stem with a smaller angle.
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#25
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From: Tsawwassen, BC
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Ok....in addition to all those that posted re: the lowered bars/stems....nice bike, but......flip the quick releases so they align with the fork and seat stays; what on earth are you carrying that you need such a large saddlebag?




