Best clipless system for a beginner
#76
Senior Member

Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 13,903
Likes: 1,241
From: Montreal Canada
Really appreciate being able to read this conversation, even though it is quite old. I bought Shimano EH-500 pedals (SPD on one side, flat on the other) for my road bike, that I have been using with EX-300 shoes without the cleats attached, except when it was below 40* recently, when I wore my flat bottomed street shoes. But as I'm getting better at biking, I want to return to the efficiency I had when I wore toe clips in the 80's. I won't be able to ride for a few days with our high winds and rain (fairweather cyclist and golfer here). But I did install the cleats on my shoes today - my only cycling action at all. Maybe tomorrow when the wind isn't howling in the garage, I'll practice clipping in and out. I'm planning to only clip in on one side for a while to make sure I'm used to it. I'd like to be one of those people who has never fallen over. It never happened with toe clips.
Still stand by that view, and I agree with what the tandem guy says too.
Re taking over, you just have to go through unclipping a lot and it becomes second nature.
Can't believe I've been using spd since 91 or 92.
Hope you adapt well, if you used clips like a lot of us did, it shouldn't be a big adoption
#77
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
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From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
A couple of thoughts and no answers. 1) shoe fit rules! If you have "generic" feet, in other words, most popular shoes work for you, your options are open. If your feet are further from norm, you may well find that such and such brand works best for you, perhaps by a wide margin. (For me, it is the Lake shoes.) And that depending on what shoes that manufacturer offers (in fits that work for you), that might drive your choices to the 2-bolt (Shimano SPD and others) pattern or the 3-bolt (LOOK and others) shoes.
Starting from scratch, you can learn to ride any of these systems. Dialed in, there is very little efficiency or power loss with any of the good systems. World championships have been won with nearly all of them. Now, some people need more float. And there are a few that cannot handle any float. Like shoe fit, these can be driving forces for some. (I'm in the no-float category.)
So my advice - try on shoes! Look for the ones that make your feet say "ahhh!". Then start with the most common of the pedal types for that bolt pattern. 2-bolt, I'd go double sided SPD pedals. 3-bolt, SPD-SL or LOOK Keo. (I started on LOOK Delta compatibles before Keo existed and never switched. Not needing or wanting float; there's never been a reason for me to "upgrade" at real expense to pedals and clears that do exactly the same thing.)
Now, ride 'em. Take notes - on foot comfort. Could your cleat placement be better? (Most cleats can be slid forward and back and to the sides as well as rotated. Forward and back changes your pedaling, Side to side may make a difference to your knees. Rotation can make a big difference to knees. Make small changes, ride and take notes. This is a big-time learning process. For most if us, the answer wasn't given overnight. Don't feel locked in to a system that just isn't panning out. Talk to others. Listen. (And keep in mind that we all have strong opinions here!)
Oops! A fairly well written answer to a 14 year old OP!
Starting from scratch, you can learn to ride any of these systems. Dialed in, there is very little efficiency or power loss with any of the good systems. World championships have been won with nearly all of them. Now, some people need more float. And there are a few that cannot handle any float. Like shoe fit, these can be driving forces for some. (I'm in the no-float category.)
So my advice - try on shoes! Look for the ones that make your feet say "ahhh!". Then start with the most common of the pedal types for that bolt pattern. 2-bolt, I'd go double sided SPD pedals. 3-bolt, SPD-SL or LOOK Keo. (I started on LOOK Delta compatibles before Keo existed and never switched. Not needing or wanting float; there's never been a reason for me to "upgrade" at real expense to pedals and clears that do exactly the same thing.)
Now, ride 'em. Take notes - on foot comfort. Could your cleat placement be better? (Most cleats can be slid forward and back and to the sides as well as rotated. Forward and back changes your pedaling, Side to side may make a difference to your knees. Rotation can make a big difference to knees. Make small changes, ride and take notes. This is a big-time learning process. For most if us, the answer wasn't given overnight. Don't feel locked in to a system that just isn't panning out. Talk to others. Listen. (And keep in mind that we all have strong opinions here!)
Oops! A fairly well written answer to a 14 year old OP!
#78
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: South shore, L.I., NY
Bikes: Trek Emonda SL7, Cannondale Topstone, Miyata City Liner, Specialized Chisel, Specialized Epic Evo
#79
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Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Montreal Canada
#80
Steel is real



Joined: Mar 2013
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Bikes: 93GiantTourer,92MeridaAlbon,96Scapin,98KonaKilaueua,93Peugeot Prestige,05CasatiClipper,98Jamis Dragon,95Tange Prestige(to be built),98VettaTeam,95Coppi,93Grandis,Daccordi x3(in build),98Piton(in build),99Trek SLR2300
For MTBs , Shimano SPD and for road bikes Look Keo or Shimano SPD SL
#81
Senior Member
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 763
Likes: 139
For those of us who don't race and don't ride on the highest or near highest level, it all comes down to if you need to walk in those biking shoes, and walking here doesn't mean any long distance but even just ten, twenty feet, or indoors on just about any surface.
Another factor is a fashion thing, if you mix with road bikers and would mind them looking down on your pedal choice. If you are the type who wants to belong, do things the way they are supposed to be done, then go for SPD-SL
Bottom line is, either choice won't make you faster on the bike (or only marginally faster to a point where it doesn't mater), it is all about what one wants apart from that.
I have two shoe pairs, those that I use for summer riding can mount either cleat type (I use them with SPD cleats) and those (because they are universal) I can't walk in them.
The other pair for spring, fall riding as they are warmer type, have also normal sole and so have only SPD cleat mount and can be walked in fairly reasonably. I only mention this because I know how it with both shoe types, road of MTB style.
Last point, get double sided pedals (if choosing SPD). Single sided might look more in line with road bike as pointed out above, but are PITA
Another factor is a fashion thing, if you mix with road bikers and would mind them looking down on your pedal choice. If you are the type who wants to belong, do things the way they are supposed to be done, then go for SPD-SL
Bottom line is, either choice won't make you faster on the bike (or only marginally faster to a point where it doesn't mater), it is all about what one wants apart from that.
I have two shoe pairs, those that I use for summer riding can mount either cleat type (I use them with SPD cleats) and those (because they are universal) I can't walk in them.
The other pair for spring, fall riding as they are warmer type, have also normal sole and so have only SPD cleat mount and can be walked in fairly reasonably. I only mention this because I know how it with both shoe types, road of MTB style.
Last point, get double sided pedals (if choosing SPD). Single sided might look more in line with road bike as pointed out above, but are PITA
Last edited by vane171; 02-26-25 at 10:15 AM.
#82
Senior Member

Joined: May 2017
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From: Hacienda Hgts
Bikes: 2026 Motobecane Mulekick 520 Steel 1999 Schwinn Peloton Ultegra 10, Kestrel RT-1000 Ultegra, Trek Marlin 6 Deore 29'er
Shimano ED500 SPD Dual Sided with adjustable tension.
I liked them so much, I have them on my endurance bike as well.
These are for touring and currently $48 on ebay.

I liked them so much, I have them on my endurance bike as well.
These are for touring and currently $48 on ebay.

#83
Senior Member




Joined: Apr 2019
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From: UK
#84
Senior Member


Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Columbus, Ohio
Bikes: Lynskey R230, Trek 5200, 1975 Raleigh Pro, 1973 Falcon ,Trek T50 Tandem and a 1968 Paramount in progress.
#85
Senior Member


Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 14,153
Likes: 5,275
From: Portland, OR
Bikes: (2) ti TiCycles, 2007 w/ triple and 2011 fixed, 1979 Peter Mooney, ~1983 Trek 420 now fixed and ~1973 Raleigh Carlton Competition gravel grinder
I have three systems for 6 bikes. Half my bikes are fix gears, I will only ride traditional slotted cleats with those. (The cleats where you fall over if you forget to loosen the buckles. And just about the only system where your foot stays on the pedal if you pull a cleat out at 200+ RPM going downhill.) My two good geared bikes get LOOK Delta compatibles. The black no-float cleats. (Float is a knee killer for me.) My townie/occasional not serious gravel/farmers market bike gets double-sided SPDs with the cleats set to max toe-in and near max release force to get as close to no-float as possible.
This does make for a lot of shoes. And sometimes needing to go back inside to get the right shoes for the bike I am about to ride!
This does make for a lot of shoes. And sometimes needing to go back inside to get the right shoes for the bike I am about to ride!
#86
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Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Lebanon (Liberty Hill), CT
Bikes: Canyon Aeroad, CAAD 12, MASI Gran Criterium S, Colnago World Cup CX, Guru steel & Guru Photon
I'm not sure I can answer your question. But, I'll give you my experience. I've been cycling for over 40 yrs. Probably 90% road and 10% cyclo-cross. I started with cages and have tried several clipless systems. About 25 yrs ago I discovered Speedplay Zero. I've never gone back. I also use Speedplay Frogs on the rail-trail. They have been discontinued but I have several sets squirreled away. We are recreational riders so a 25 gram weight difference or a 5 watt savings are meaningless. I think you have to try different systems, if you can, and see what works for you.
#87
A couple of thoughts and no answers. 1) shoe fit rules! If you have "generic" feet, in other words, most popular shoes work for you, your options are open. If your feet are further from norm, you may well find that such and such brand works best for you, perhaps by a wide margin. (For me, it is the Lake shoes.) And that depending on what shoes that manufacturer offers (in fits that work for you), that might drive your choices to the 2-bolt (Shimano SPD and others) pattern or the 3-bolt (LOOK and others) shoes.
Starting from scratch, you can learn to ride any of these systems. Dialed in, there is very little efficiency or power loss with any of the good systems. World championships have been won with nearly all of them. Now, some people need more float. And there are a few that cannot handle any float. Like shoe fit, these can be driving forces for some. (I'm in the no-float category.)
So my advice - try on shoes! Look for the ones that make your feet say "ahhh!". Then start with the most common of the pedal types for that bolt pattern. 2-bolt, I'd go double sided SPD pedals. 3-bolt, SPD-SL or LOOK Keo. (I started on LOOK Delta compatibles before Keo existed and never switched. Not needing or wanting float; there's never been a reason for me to "upgrade" at real expense to pedals and clears that do exactly the same thing.)
Now, ride 'em. Take notes - on foot comfort. Could your cleat placement be better? (Most cleats can be slid forward and back and to the sides as well as rotated. Forward and back changes your pedaling, Side to side may make a difference to your knees. Rotation can make a big difference to knees. Make small changes, ride and take notes. This is a big-time learning process. For most if us, the answer wasn't given overnight. Don't feel locked in to a system that just isn't panning out. Talk to others. Listen. (And keep in mind that we all have strong opinions here!)
Oops! A fairly well written answer to a 14 year old OP!
Starting from scratch, you can learn to ride any of these systems. Dialed in, there is very little efficiency or power loss with any of the good systems. World championships have been won with nearly all of them. Now, some people need more float. And there are a few that cannot handle any float. Like shoe fit, these can be driving forces for some. (I'm in the no-float category.)
So my advice - try on shoes! Look for the ones that make your feet say "ahhh!". Then start with the most common of the pedal types for that bolt pattern. 2-bolt, I'd go double sided SPD pedals. 3-bolt, SPD-SL or LOOK Keo. (I started on LOOK Delta compatibles before Keo existed and never switched. Not needing or wanting float; there's never been a reason for me to "upgrade" at real expense to pedals and clears that do exactly the same thing.)
Now, ride 'em. Take notes - on foot comfort. Could your cleat placement be better? (Most cleats can be slid forward and back and to the sides as well as rotated. Forward and back changes your pedaling, Side to side may make a difference to your knees. Rotation can make a big difference to knees. Make small changes, ride and take notes. This is a big-time learning process. For most if us, the answer wasn't given overnight. Don't feel locked in to a system that just isn't panning out. Talk to others. Listen. (And keep in mind that we all have strong opinions here!)
Oops! A fairly well written answer to a 14 year old OP!
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#88
Fredly Fredster

Joined: Jan 2017
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Bikes: Trek Domane S5, Trek 1.1c, Motobecane Omni Strada Comp, Trek X-Caliber 6
I'm one of the proud weirdo freds who use MTB pedals on road bikes.
I use Speedplay Frogs on my road bikes and they are better than Shimano MTB pedals, IMO. I started with Frogs in 2014 and used them ever since. I use Shimano MTB (XTR M9100) on my hardtail 29er mountain bike... and they are good pedals, but not as amazing as the Frogs. It's a shame Speedplay was bought out by Wahoo... and Wahoo didn't continue the Frog line. Frogs are simplistic, with a brilliant design. Super easy to clip in and clip out, extremely durable, easy to maintain, double-sided and light weight. Perfect pedals that allow me to wear MTB shoes, so I can walk around off the bike with comfort and ease.
I use Speedplay Frogs on my road bikes and they are better than Shimano MTB pedals, IMO. I started with Frogs in 2014 and used them ever since. I use Shimano MTB (XTR M9100) on my hardtail 29er mountain bike... and they are good pedals, but not as amazing as the Frogs. It's a shame Speedplay was bought out by Wahoo... and Wahoo didn't continue the Frog line. Frogs are simplistic, with a brilliant design. Super easy to clip in and clip out, extremely durable, easy to maintain, double-sided and light weight. Perfect pedals that allow me to wear MTB shoes, so I can walk around off the bike with comfort and ease.






