Biking in the rain
#1
Thread Starter
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Bikes: 2010 Trek FX 7.5, 2011 Trek 2.1
Biking in the rain
We've been planning a trip with our bikes this weekend and of course now they're calling for rain. I'm hoping to not have to completely change our plans and looking at possibly riding in the rain, depending on how heavy it is. We got some rain gear, but I'm more concerned about the bikes. We don't have high end ones (mine has been referred to as a toy bike), but do want to make sure I do what I need for the bike. I quite like mine.
Is there anything I need to do to prepare the bikes for rain riding, things to do when we're finished? I'm mostly thinking of shifters, levers, drivetrain and handlebar tape. We'd also need to transport them on the back of our car, I was going to take the seatpost off so I don't have to completely readjust the saddle, but didn't know if I needed to be concerned about water in the tube if it rained in route.
Thanks
Is there anything I need to do to prepare the bikes for rain riding, things to do when we're finished? I'm mostly thinking of shifters, levers, drivetrain and handlebar tape. We'd also need to transport them on the back of our car, I was going to take the seatpost off so I don't have to completely readjust the saddle, but didn't know if I needed to be concerned about water in the tube if it rained in route.
Thanks
#3
The drive train doesn't especially like the rain. It isn't the water, but the grime that winds up in the chain, being ground into the gears. Fenders help a little. But, what this ultimately means is you'll have to replace your chain a little sooner than you otherwise would have. Same goes for your cassette.
Wipe your bike down afterwards, and apply fresh chain lube after it dries.
Go a little bit slower, and plan on needing more stopping distance.
Wipe your bike down afterwards, and apply fresh chain lube after it dries.
Go a little bit slower, and plan on needing more stopping distance.
#4
Underwhelming
Joined: Nov 2009
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From: Northeast Mississippi
Bikes: Lynskey R330 Ti, Dean El Vado Ti, Trek 4300
I remove the seatpost to let the seat tube and post get dry. And get it upside down for a while. This prevents water from getting trapped in the frame (unless you have a drain hole, but I'd do it even then).
I always clean and lube the chain after a rain ride. Other than that, a wipe-down is good.
I always clean and lube the chain after a rain ride. Other than that, a wipe-down is good.
#6
You could do clip-on fenders if you want, regardless of what kind of mounts your frame has (or doesn't have). I think fenders aren't worth the hassle, personally. You're still going to get wet, and so is your drive train. But, you can make 'em work if you want them.
#7
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Bikes: 2010 Trek FX 7.5, 2011 Trek 2.1
Thinking about it more, I should have known rain wouldn't be too bad. Seattle is a big biking town, and if rain was an issue, you probably wouldn't be riding much there.
#8
It's alright to ride in the rain without fenders or what not because after all, you're not doing this everyday. Like others have said, when you're done, flip the bike upside down and dry it with paper towels as much as possible, and then lube the chain. That's it.
#10
If you haven't ridden in the rain before, pull your breaks somewhat gently a few times (letting go afterward) before you actually plan to stop. The pads will "wipe" most of the water off your rim, restoring most of your stopping power. Kool Stop salmon pads have a bit more stopping power in the rain.
That's probably obvious, but after riding a CX bike with disc brakes for years, I had forgotten about rim braking, and was a bit surprised the first time I took my new road bike out in the rain.
That's probably obvious, but after riding a CX bike with disc brakes for years, I had forgotten about rim braking, and was a bit surprised the first time I took my new road bike out in the rain.
#11
Artificial Member




Joined: Jan 2010
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From: The Cloud
Bikes: Retrospec Judd, Dahon Boardwalk, Specialized Langster
Seattle's braking (BRAKING) advice is spot on (EXCEPT THE SPELLING) and I can only add this. The white striping and any metal (manhole covers, train tracks, etc.) become extremely slippery when wet. Rough road surface is far less grippy in turns than smooth asphalt. Beware.
#12
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Greenville, SC
Bikes: Lynskey R230, Gary Fisher Tassajara; Motobecane Boris Fatbike; Cannondale Habit
Seattle's braking (BRAKING) advice is spot on (EXCEPT THE SPELLING) and I can only add this. The white striping and any metal (manhole covers, train tracks, etc.) become extremely slippery when wet. Rough road surface is far less grippy in turns than smooth asphalt. Beware.
#14
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From: Jackson, NH
Bikes: Cannondale 2.8 R700 circa 1997; 2009 Cervelo S2; Trek 930 mountain bike; various others
i ride very slowly over features like this. have all your braking done well before your tires touch wet wood and don't try to turn or tap the brakes even slightly, it's very easy to go down.
#15
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Lift up the rear wheel or put it on a work stand if you have one and give the cranks a vigorous spin in high gear. It'll knock most of the water off the chain and other drive train components. A few "bounces" against the ground help too. I'll sometimes put a fan on my bike after riding in the rain just help with drying. Clean and lube the chain and you should be ready for next time
#16
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Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Awesome, Austin, TX
Bikes: Specialized Roubaix, Interloc Impala, ParkPre Image C6
I've only ridden in the rain twice in the last five years...but after each ride, I've pretty much taken the bike apart, cleaned it and put it back together. The first time nearly a 1/2 cup of water came out of the bottom bracket area when I removed it, which reinforced the need.
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2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
2014 Specialized Roubaix2003 Interloc Impala2007 ParkPre Image C6 (RIP)
#18
That's how I justified my new Giro ProLite - fell on the pressure treated boardwalk. It was a gentle fall, but I love the helmet!
#20
I'd lube the chain with a heavier oil-based lube before you go. Expect it to look black and gunky by the end of the ride, but it will still be there.
I tried wax based lubes on my commuter when I lived in Vancouver. I found the lube could be totally washed out and the chain squeaking within an hour on a really wet day.
Clip-on fenders will make your rain rides much more comfortable. Salmon Koolstops do give you better braking in the wet.
I tried wax based lubes on my commuter when I lived in Vancouver. I found the lube could be totally washed out and the chain squeaking within an hour on a really wet day.
Clip-on fenders will make your rain rides much more comfortable. Salmon Koolstops do give you better braking in the wet.
#22
uʍop ǝpısdn s,ʇı
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 316
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From: Right Behind You...
Bikes: GT ZR 3.0 Team Lotto, Specialized Rockhopper, Mangusta 3000
After the ride all you need to do is dry and clean every thing off (Chain, cables, shifters, tape, cassette, chain rings, pretty much anything that moves) and then lube it up. Get a chain specific lube for the chain, chain rings, and the cassette. Most also work in the derailleurs in a pinch. Lubing the cables helps keep them from rusting up in the housings and forcing you to replace them. Other than that, you're bike will hold up.
#23
Two wheels, two skis...
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 647
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From: Dudley, MA
Bikes: Tarmac SL4, Lemond Victoire, Titus Motolite
I'd lube the chain with a heavier oil-based lube before you go. Expect it to look black and gunky by the end of the ride, but it will still be there.
I tried wax based lubes on my commuter when I lived in Vancouver. I found the lube could be totally washed out and the chain squeaking within an hour on a really wet day.
Clip-on fenders will make your rain rides much more comfortable. Salmon Koolstops do give you better braking in the wet.
I tried wax based lubes on my commuter when I lived in Vancouver. I found the lube could be totally washed out and the chain squeaking within an hour on a really wet day.
Clip-on fenders will make your rain rides much more comfortable. Salmon Koolstops do give you better braking in the wet.




