Cable unraveling
#1
Thread Starter
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Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, CAAD9, CAD R1000
Cable unraveling
Before I started by ride today, I noticed one strand of my front derailleur cable had unraveled. However, the rest of the strands were still firm and looked normal. Halfway through the ride, I look down and see the whole cable unraveled - with a few strands still hanging on. A few miles later, it had fallen off.
I assume I will need a new cable, but is this a particularly urgent?
Furthermore, I had only ridden around 2000 miles using this particular cable - is this normal wear on a cable?
Thanks.
I assume I will need a new cable, but is this a particularly urgent?
Furthermore, I had only ridden around 2000 miles using this particular cable - is this normal wear on a cable?
Thanks.
#2
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,274
Likes: 11,795
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
If it has unraveled only "downstream" from where it is clamped onto your FD, then it's not a rush but I would still replace it sooner than later.
If it has unraveled "upstream" of your FD you should replace it sooner or do all your rides in the smaller ring until it's replaced.
In my experience the RD wears out faster than the FD as I use it much more. 2000 miles sounds too soon, maybe the end cap fell off and got the process started???
If you want more detailed info, you will have to post a decent pic of your situation.
You can replace it yourself if you have a set of cable cutters, a cable should not cost more than 5 bucks and it is VERY easy to do.
PS I suspect most folks would suggest replacing cables annually if you ride a lot, i.e. more than say 5000 miles/year. You might be able to get by doing this every 2-3 years but a broken cable mid-ride can ruin your day.
If it has unraveled "upstream" of your FD you should replace it sooner or do all your rides in the smaller ring until it's replaced.
In my experience the RD wears out faster than the FD as I use it much more. 2000 miles sounds too soon, maybe the end cap fell off and got the process started???
If you want more detailed info, you will have to post a decent pic of your situation.
You can replace it yourself if you have a set of cable cutters, a cable should not cost more than 5 bucks and it is VERY easy to do.
PS I suspect most folks would suggest replacing cables annually if you ride a lot, i.e. more than say 5000 miles/year. You might be able to get by doing this every 2-3 years but a broken cable mid-ride can ruin your day.
#3
If it has unraveled only "downstream" from where it is clamped onto your FD, then it's not a rush but I would still replace it sooner than later.
If it has unraveled "upstream" of your FD you should replace it sooner or do all your rides in the smaller ring until it's replaced.
In my experience the RD wears out faster than the FD as I use it much more. 2000 miles sounds too soon, maybe the end cap fell off and got the process started???
If you want more detailed info, you will have to post a decent pic of your situation.
You can replace it yourself if you have a set of cable cutters, a cable should not cost more than 5 bucks and it is VERY easy to do.
PS I suspect most folks would suggest replacing cables annually if you ride a lot, i.e. more than say 5000 miles/year. You might be able to get by doing this every 2-3 years but a broken cable mid-ride can ruin your day.
If it has unraveled "upstream" of your FD you should replace it sooner or do all your rides in the smaller ring until it's replaced.
In my experience the RD wears out faster than the FD as I use it much more. 2000 miles sounds too soon, maybe the end cap fell off and got the process started???
If you want more detailed info, you will have to post a decent pic of your situation.
You can replace it yourself if you have a set of cable cutters, a cable should not cost more than 5 bucks and it is VERY easy to do.
PS I suspect most folks would suggest replacing cables annually if you ride a lot, i.e. more than say 5000 miles/year. You might be able to get by doing this every 2-3 years but a broken cable mid-ride can ruin your day.
I have had cables last for years on bikes, other bikes they need replaced in six months. In your case it sounds like the cable end crimp was loose or missing. If that is the case and it happens again (on a different cable of course) put a new crimp on it, tape it up, or solder it. Without some type of cable termination (can't think of a better name) the cable is going to unravel sooner than later.
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#4
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
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Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
The normal point of failure for a cable is where the head attaches, so you should still have loads of mileage left on this.
#5
No 2000 miles a cable should not fall appart like that. Now granted I usually put new cables and housings on my bikes every 2-3 years and for me thats about in the 3000-4000mile range over the period of 3 or so years. I dont have a lot of issues with cables unraveling. I have some cables that are stock from when i bought the bike and they are still fine.
Now with that said I have replaced a few cables and I have run into some unraveling issues just like yourself on the front der. There are a few things to check to make sure that this wont happen. First off is the cable end on there good? crimped on tight and making contact with all the strands? Is the cable touching your leg shoe or crankarm during normal pedal motion?
Also did you install this cable yourself? If so sometimes I find that cable cutters dont do such a great job. This is just me so take my advice how you want. But I got this tip from bicycle magazine a few years ago. Heat the cable where you want it cut with a lighter till it glows red. then clip that glowing spot with your sidecutters. Buy a good pair like channellock, knipex, snapon if you want. hell even craftsmans are ok but you cant beat good ole channellock.
The heat from the lighter makes the metal brittle and the side cutters with shear right through the cable cleanly without disturbing the cable braid or smashing it. (if you have a propane torch use that for even better just dont set the flame on the bike or component.
Doing it this way as I have found has a side effect of kind of bonding the cables together weakly till you can put a cable tip on and smoosh her down good. Ive also played around with the idea of putting a ball of solder on the end but im not sure it would stick to ss or ptfe coated cables.
But hey a new cable is 5 bucks at the lbs go get a nice ptfe coated one from a good mfr and install it and if it freys again its only 5 bucks. Hell stock up on em. you never know when you need another cable.
Hope this helps
Sean Scott
Now with that said I have replaced a few cables and I have run into some unraveling issues just like yourself on the front der. There are a few things to check to make sure that this wont happen. First off is the cable end on there good? crimped on tight and making contact with all the strands? Is the cable touching your leg shoe or crankarm during normal pedal motion?
Also did you install this cable yourself? If so sometimes I find that cable cutters dont do such a great job. This is just me so take my advice how you want. But I got this tip from bicycle magazine a few years ago. Heat the cable where you want it cut with a lighter till it glows red. then clip that glowing spot with your sidecutters. Buy a good pair like channellock, knipex, snapon if you want. hell even craftsmans are ok but you cant beat good ole channellock.
The heat from the lighter makes the metal brittle and the side cutters with shear right through the cable cleanly without disturbing the cable braid or smashing it. (if you have a propane torch use that for even better just dont set the flame on the bike or component.
Doing it this way as I have found has a side effect of kind of bonding the cables together weakly till you can put a cable tip on and smoosh her down good. Ive also played around with the idea of putting a ball of solder on the end but im not sure it would stick to ss or ptfe coated cables.
But hey a new cable is 5 bucks at the lbs go get a nice ptfe coated one from a good mfr and install it and if it freys again its only 5 bucks. Hell stock up on em. you never know when you need another cable.
Hope this helps
Sean Scott
#6
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,274
Likes: 11,795
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#7
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 221
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From: Palo Alto, CA
Bikes: BMC TeamMachine, CAAD9, CAD R1000
I would say "downstream" - the thing still shifts fine. I'm just worried that it'll slip out of where it is connected to the FD and I'll lose control of the FD.
The cable was breaking where it was connected to the FD. It was tight at the end, where the cap is, but I lost this part somewhere on the road - I don't know when it fell off.

Thanks.
The cable was breaking where it was connected to the FD. It was tight at the end, where the cap is, but I lost this part somewhere on the road - I don't know when it fell off.
Thanks.
#8
No, I don't hate to agree with you, I generally do agree with you. I just hate posting "+1".
__________________
I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
#9
I would say "downstream" - the thing still shifts fine. I'm just worried that it'll slip out of where it is connected to the FD and I'll lose control of the FD.
The cable was breaking where it was connected to the FD. It was tight at the end, where the cap is, but I lost this part somewhere on the road - I don't know when it fell off.

Thanks.
The cable was breaking where it was connected to the FD. It was tight at the end, where the cap is, but I lost this part somewhere on the road - I don't know when it fell off.
Thanks.
__________________
I may be fat but I'm slow enough to make up for it.
#10
ouch. that cable looks like it almost got ripped off at the bolt. Im with lowcel replace asap. I want to venture to say its being caught by a crank arm or ring or something. that almost looks like a rip rather than a unwinding.
#11
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 46,274
Likes: 11,795
From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#12
Portland Fred
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 11,553
Likes: 54
Bikes: Custom Winter, Challenge Seiran SL, Fuji Team Pro, Cattrike Road/Velokit, РOS hybrid
Agreed. I wouldn't screw around with this cable -- best thing to do is replace it soon.
#14
i think my lbs carries alligator. Never seemed to fail me. they tend to stress the ptfe ones. And I do think they work better especially for shifting. I would recomend the. Altho I think the majority of the benifit i feel comes from the fact that the cable I buy from them is slightly smaller than my stock cable so it slides through the housing easier. But i think with cables as long as its from a good mfr. its 6 in one half dozen in the other kind of thing. They should all work. bike cables are lowly stressed and dont move a whole lot. but im a bike noob so just my $0.02







