what to do with spacers when lowering stem....
09-14-11 | 10:03 AM
#26
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09-14-11 | 11:12 AM
#27
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King Hoternot
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09-14-11 | 12:36 PM
#28
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I believe I read something somewhere about Trek saying that you had to have at least one spacer on top to avoid catastrophic failure and nasty death. When I flipped mine, I removed one from below and put it up there.
09-14-11 | 12:39 PM
#29
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09-14-11 | 12:43 PM
#30
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I wish I bookmarked the thread where somebody had posted all of these photos of pro bikes and their slammed stems and 140mm lengths..classic.
Like this....but there we like 10 photos..haha...
I must say, I love my Pro Vibe 7S with puzzle clamp and -10 degree...I just need a longer one now, 110 still a bit short.
09-14-11 | 06:10 PM
#32
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Wasn't there a story about someone voiding their warranty by not having a spacer on top?
09-14-11 | 07:34 PM
#33
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09-14-11 | 07:37 PM
#34
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To the OP, a good idea is to take a measuring tape and measure from the Quick release axle on your front wheel to the centre of the handlebar. That way once you get that measurement dialled you can move from bike to bike easily, and it will put into perspective for you what a 1cm, 2cm change feels like from your current position.
Last edited by Minion1; 09-14-11 at 07:47 PM.
09-14-11 | 09:34 PM
#36
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King Hoternot
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To the OP, a good idea is to take a measuring tape and measure from the Quick release axle on your front wheel to the centre of the handlebar. That way once you get that measurement dialled you can move from bike to bike easily, and it will put into perspective for you what a 1cm, 2cm change feels like from your current position.
good point. I have been meaning to take measurement on everything and write it down but have yet to do so. thanks for the reminder.
09-14-11 | 11:38 PM
#37
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I agree with the "don't cut" camp as I have 15mm of spacers above the stem of my 2 month-old bike.
However, for argument's sake if I had a typical 6 deg stem and suddenly realized I needed higher bars after cutting my steerer tube I would not buy a new fork. I would buy a 17-20 deg stem!
However, for argument's sake if I had a typical 6 deg stem and suddenly realized I needed higher bars after cutting my steerer tube I would not buy a new fork. I would buy a 17-20 deg stem!
Me too.
09-15-11 | 04:19 AM
#41
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I could go on but there's no point...other than to mention when I was racing overseas we used to do a drill where, riding in a pack, hit riders on the arms...if you are riding with too strong a grip, down you go. What they called the "US Grip"...death grip on the hoods, straight locked arms/elbows...every day we send riders out with properly fitted bikes where they can sit properly and ride faster.
Personally, I like the bars higher because I like to climb the short steep stuff from the drops rather than standing as it's faster. There are several top notch riders who liked less drop, one being Marco Pantani.
Last edited by roadwarrior; 09-15-11 at 04:28 AM.
09-15-11 | 04:34 AM
#42
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I wish I bookmarked the thread where somebody had posted all of these photos of pro bikes and their slammed stems and 140mm lengths..classic.
Like this....but there we like 10 photos..haha...
I must say, I love my Pro Vibe 7S with puzzle clamp and -10 degree...I just need a longer one now, 110 still a bit short.
Like this....but there we like 10 photos..haha...
I must say, I love my Pro Vibe 7S with puzzle clamp and -10 degree...I just need a longer one now, 110 still a bit short.
09-15-11 | 08:30 AM
#43
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My point is that self fitters (who, with all due respect really do not know what they are doing) set the bike up for looks, not performance. They generally do not ride down in the drops much, mostly sitting up with their hands on the hoods with straight arms. This is especially true in the US because few people get any instruction on how to correctly ride a bike. So they ride with locked elbows and straight arms when they should be riding with soft arms and hands just enough to control the bike (for example, can you ride for long periods of time with your hands on top of the hoods with your forearms parallel to the ground, a great aero position? Most cannot). They can't do that due to fit...bars are way too low given their flexibility and fitness. But they look really good riding bikes set up like a pro. Looks are a lot more important than performance.
I could go on but there's no point...other than to mention when I was racing overseas we used to do a drill where, riding in a pack, hit riders on the arms...if you are riding with too strong a grip, down you go. What they called the "US Grip"...death grip on the hoods, straight locked arms/elbows...every day we send riders out with properly fitted bikes where they can sit properly and ride faster.
Personally, I like the bars higher because I like to climb the short steep stuff from the drops rather than standing as it's faster. There are several top notch riders who liked less drop, one being Marco Pantani.
I could go on but there's no point...other than to mention when I was racing overseas we used to do a drill where, riding in a pack, hit riders on the arms...if you are riding with too strong a grip, down you go. What they called the "US Grip"...death grip on the hoods, straight locked arms/elbows...every day we send riders out with properly fitted bikes where they can sit properly and ride faster.
Personally, I like the bars higher because I like to climb the short steep stuff from the drops rather than standing as it's faster. There are several top notch riders who liked less drop, one being Marco Pantani.
I always cringe when I see fellow cyclists with locked arms, it's so "wrong" but no point in arguing with them.
09-15-11 | 09:48 AM
#44
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09-15-11 | 09:51 AM
#45
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...after which, if I see my students riding with locked arms, I roll up next to them and give them a whack on the elbow. They learn pretty quick, sans argument.
09-15-11 | 10:00 AM
#46
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From: S. E. Michigan
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Cutting fork tube link: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-...gth-and-sizing
Meausure twice, cut once, oops it's still not right, go buy new fork. repeat.
Meausure twice, cut once, oops it's still not right, go buy new fork. repeat.
09-15-11 | 10:01 AM
#47
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09-15-11 | 10:36 AM
#48
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My point is that self fitters (who, with all due respect really do not know what they are doing) set the bike up for looks, not performance. They generally do not ride down in the drops much, mostly sitting up with their hands on the hoods with straight arms. This is especially true in the US because few people get any instruction on how to correctly ride a bike. So they ride with locked elbows and straight arms when they should be riding with soft arms and hands just enough to control the bike (for example, can you ride for long periods of time with your hands on top of the hoods with your forearms parallel to the ground, a great aero position? Most cannot). They can't do that due to fit...bars are way too low given their flexibility and fitness. But they look really good riding bikes set up like a pro. Looks are a lot more important than performance.
I could go on but there's no point...other than to mention when I was racing overseas we used to do a drill where, riding in a pack, hit riders on the arms...if you are riding with too strong a grip, down you go. What they called the "US Grip"...death grip on the hoods, straight locked arms/elbows...every day we send riders out with properly fitted bikes where they can sit properly and ride faster.
Personally, I like the bars higher because I like to climb the short steep stuff from the drops rather than standing as it's faster. There are several top notch riders who liked less drop, one being Marco Pantani.
I could go on but there's no point...other than to mention when I was racing overseas we used to do a drill where, riding in a pack, hit riders on the arms...if you are riding with too strong a grip, down you go. What they called the "US Grip"...death grip on the hoods, straight locked arms/elbows...every day we send riders out with properly fitted bikes where they can sit properly and ride faster.
Personally, I like the bars higher because I like to climb the short steep stuff from the drops rather than standing as it's faster. There are several top notch riders who liked less drop, one being Marco Pantani.
09-15-11 | 11:15 AM
#49
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I didn't know that. I wonder if Specialized is the same or if my wife's new Dolce is merely assembled wrong. It has 2x10mm and 1x5mm under the stem and nothing but the cap on top. I gave it the stink eye, but haven't changed anything yet. This is her first road bike and her hybrid has her sitting damn near straight up, so she's going through a big adjustment as is...
09-15-11 | 11:30 AM
#50
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I co-lead (I hesitate to say I "coach") a 12-week group cycling skills course for my club, and every year I make a point of listing the Four Reasons To Ride With Bent Elbows.
...after which, if I see my students riding with locked arms, I roll up next to them and give them a whack on the elbow. They learn pretty quick, sans argument.
...after which, if I see my students riding with locked arms, I roll up next to them and give them a whack on the elbow. They learn pretty quick, sans argument.
https://forums.roadbikereview.com/gen...nt-241276.html
Originally Posted by Bob Ross
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Five good reasons to ride with bent elbows:
1) bent arms will act as shock absorbers; if locked out, every bump & jar goes straight up your arms into the neck & shoulders. Ouch!
2) bent arms allow you to better maintain control of the bike if you make contact w/ another rider. Try this sometime: Have a buddy ride next to you and bump your arm gently while it's locked straight; notice how your arm pushes the bar & changes the bike's direction. Now try it again w/ bent elbow; notice how your arm simply deflects inward w/o affecting pressure on the bar.
3) when climbing or making hard efforts, bent elbows allow you to recruit the stronger muscles of the back (lats?) as you pull on the bar. With a straight arm, you're instead relying on the weaker traps.
4) bent elbow means your whole torso is slightly lower, ergo slightly more aerodynamic.
5) umm...I forget what #5 is. Okay, so maybe there are only four good reasons.
But #1 is really the most important imho.
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Five good reasons to ride with bent elbows:
1) bent arms will act as shock absorbers; if locked out, every bump & jar goes straight up your arms into the neck & shoulders. Ouch!
2) bent arms allow you to better maintain control of the bike if you make contact w/ another rider. Try this sometime: Have a buddy ride next to you and bump your arm gently while it's locked straight; notice how your arm pushes the bar & changes the bike's direction. Now try it again w/ bent elbow; notice how your arm simply deflects inward w/o affecting pressure on the bar.
3) when climbing or making hard efforts, bent elbows allow you to recruit the stronger muscles of the back (lats?) as you pull on the bar. With a straight arm, you're instead relying on the weaker traps.
4) bent elbow means your whole torso is slightly lower, ergo slightly more aerodynamic.
5) umm...I forget what #5 is. Okay, so maybe there are only four good reasons.
But #1 is really the most important imho.