Tube Help, Please.
#1
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From: Downtown Phoenix
Bikes: BMC RoadRacer SL01, Kona Kula FrankensteinDeluxe, Schwinn Powerglide.
Tube Help, Please.
I blow through tubes at a relatively decent rate, and perhaps I'm wanting what I don't want to pay for, but hear me out.
I buy Performance Bike Forte tubes because Tuesdays from 11-1, they offer an additional 10% off in addition to my 10% that comes back for being Team Performance member. They come out to like $4 after everything.
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._20000_1617510
Unfortunately, since the presta valve is threaded, most of my flats happen from airing tires daily... when I go to pull the pump head off, I sometimes end up ripping the valve where it meets the tube.
For this reason, I love the unthreaded valves. The pump head goes on so easily and comes off smoothly.
I can not find an unthreaded valve except for the Michelin tubes, which all look to be double the cost of what I'm currently using. Does anyone know a tube with a non threaded valve that is anywhere near the cost of what I'm currently using? I'd say in order to justify it, they would have to be under $7 assuming I use 30% or so less tubes.
I buy Performance Bike Forte tubes because Tuesdays from 11-1, they offer an additional 10% off in addition to my 10% that comes back for being Team Performance member. They come out to like $4 after everything.
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._20000_1617510
Unfortunately, since the presta valve is threaded, most of my flats happen from airing tires daily... when I go to pull the pump head off, I sometimes end up ripping the valve where it meets the tube.
For this reason, I love the unthreaded valves. The pump head goes on so easily and comes off smoothly.
I can not find an unthreaded valve except for the Michelin tubes, which all look to be double the cost of what I'm currently using. Does anyone know a tube with a non threaded valve that is anywhere near the cost of what I'm currently using? I'd say in order to justify it, they would have to be under $7 assuming I use 30% or so less tubes.
#2
#4
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Bikes: BMC RoadRacer SL01, Kona Kula FrankensteinDeluxe, Schwinn Powerglide.
#5
funny you mention that Vice. I found the Forte tubes were too delicate/flimsy years ago and decided cheaping out on tubes was maybe not the best. So, I switched to the Michelin (which cuts against my frugal grain) and have never looked back. Punctures are one thing but I repair those although I admittedly have fewer with the Mich. The real issue is that the Forte consistently developed small leaks more frequently and required more pumping. This lead to the real, real issue which is that the valves on the Forte simply were not as durable even with gentle use and would break every so often. Not so with the Michelin. Yes, they cost more. However, I can go MANY more miles/hours on the Michelin w/ needing to pump, fix, or replace them. So that price actually is LESS expensive than the Forte in the long run. Counter intuitive maybe but it is what I found. Buying Forte cost me more money per mile and lots more time maintaining and fiddling with them.
Not saying that is the bible of Forte/Michelin but it was MY experience and I am quite happy sticking w/ the "more expensive" latter option.
Hey, BTW as an endnote if you are getting frequent stem issues at the attached base have you checked your wheel to see if it is also playing a part? Check for burrs that may be cutting it. Check for anything that might put undo pressure on the stem... I occasionally see folks who overly tighten the threaded ring on the stem which may pull the stem too hard and put too much strain on the attachment to the tube. Just something to consider although as posted my experience was that the Forte simply have somewhat subpar valve stem strength..
Not saying that is the bible of Forte/Michelin but it was MY experience and I am quite happy sticking w/ the "more expensive" latter option.
Hey, BTW as an endnote if you are getting frequent stem issues at the attached base have you checked your wheel to see if it is also playing a part? Check for burrs that may be cutting it. Check for anything that might put undo pressure on the stem... I occasionally see folks who overly tighten the threaded ring on the stem which may pull the stem too hard and put too much strain on the attachment to the tube. Just something to consider although as posted my experience was that the Forte simply have somewhat subpar valve stem strength..
Last edited by HokuLoa; 09-17-11 at 03:31 PM.
#7
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From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Michelin and Specialized make the better tubes. I use Specialized and never have that issue, but I also use them because that's all the LBS carries. Michelin latex tubes though will fail at the valve but the butyl tubes are better. I've had issues with Conti tubes though. Tube manufactures have changed the way they make tubes by not reinforcing the presta to tube area as well as they use to, this is why more and more pump manufactures are making mini pumps with hoses instead of direct connection because the direct connection puts more stress on the tube.
See this for detailed info on this process: https://www.machinehead-software.co.u...ta_valves.html this just addresses the problem with threaded prestas, another problem in itself.
See this for detailed info on this process: https://www.machinehead-software.co.u...ta_valves.html this just addresses the problem with threaded prestas, another problem in itself.
#9
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From: Downtown Phoenix
Bikes: BMC RoadRacer SL01, Kona Kula FrankensteinDeluxe, Schwinn Powerglide.
Hey, BTW as an endnote if you are getting frequent stem issues at the attached base have you checked your wheel to see if it is also playing a part? Check for burrs that may be cutting it. Check for anything that might put undo pressure on the stem... I occasionally see folks who overly tighten the threaded ring on the stem which may pull the stem too hard and put too much strain on the attachment to the tube. Just something to consider although as posted my experience was that the Forte simply have somewhat subpar valve stem strength..
If I went michelin, should I get butyl or latex? I run the butyl in my single speed because I got them for $3.50 each... the latex though are like $9!
FYI, do not google "giant tubes" at your workplace.
#10
LOL, I'll avoid that...
I do the $9 and I get more miles than i can keep track of without needing repair. I also only need to pump maybe every week to 2 weeks usually. Really so few problems that I honestly forget and consider tire/tube a non-issue most of the time and I rarely have a noticeable change in pressure. Oh, FYI I'm a 165-185lb rider over my 5yr or so timeline of using Michelins.
I do the $9 and I get more miles than i can keep track of without needing repair. I also only need to pump maybe every week to 2 weeks usually. Really so few problems that I honestly forget and consider tire/tube a non-issue most of the time and I rarely have a noticeable change in pressure. Oh, FYI I'm a 165-185lb rider over my 5yr or so timeline of using Michelins.
#11
Also, I've not had a prob with this but I know folks who have had wheels that chronically cause valve stem strain/issues. Something in the engineering or craftsmanship I suppose but no tweaking fixed their problem. Probably not your issue but just a heads up that it is every so often the problem. Pretty rare I'd imagine...
#12
Good point. i always use a floor pump with tube and I am careful. For rides i use CO2 though and have yet to have issue...
#13
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From: NE Indiana
Bikes: 2020 Masi Giramondo 700c; 2013 Lynskey Peloton; 1992 Giant Rincon; 1989 Dawes needs parts; 1985 Trek 660; 1985 Fuji Club; 1984 Schwinn Voyager; 1984 Miyata 612; 1977 Raleigh Competition GS
Michelin and Specialized tubes use smooth presta valves so as not to tear up the pump grommet seal.
#14
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From: Los Angeles, CA
Bikes: Pinarello Nytro, Momentum Transend
It's not the tubes. I have been using Forte tubes for years and they work just as well as the Continental, Specialized, and Michelin tubes I have used in the recent past. You might be able to loosen the ring on your pump head by unscrewing the cap a little (we're talking less than 1/8 turn should do the trick). Also, just to be sure, you are releasing the lever on the head before pulling it off, right?
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#15
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From: Downtown Phoenix
Bikes: BMC RoadRacer SL01, Kona Kula FrankensteinDeluxe, Schwinn Powerglide.
It's not the tubes. I have been using Forte tubes for years and they work just as well as the Continental, Specialized, and Michelin tubes I have used in the recent past. You might be able to loosen the ring on your pump head by unscrewing the cap a little (we're talking less than 1/8 turn should do the trick). Also, just to be sure, you are releasing the lever on the head before pulling it off, right?
#16
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: South Louisiana
Bikes: Specialized Allez Sprint, Look 585, Specialized Crux E5 Sport, Trek Domane SL6
I've got the Forté tubes on my Look, and haven't had any problems with them. I'm one of those Freds who keep the nut on the valve stem, because it serves a purpose - it gives you something to grab onto when you pull the pump head off, thereby reducing the chance of pulling the valve stem out of the tube. It also holds the valve stem against the pressure of attaching the pump head when the tube is almost empty, as it is when installing it or fixing a flat.
Having said that, any tubes I buy in the future will have smooth valve stems, since that eliminates the need for nut in the first place - the pump head just slides right off.
BTW, either Performance or Nashbar (forget which) has the cheap Michelin tubes on sale for $3.99.
Having said that, any tubes I buy in the future will have smooth valve stems, since that eliminates the need for nut in the first place - the pump head just slides right off.
BTW, either Performance or Nashbar (forget which) has the cheap Michelin tubes on sale for $3.99.
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