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Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Best Entry Level Bike Under $800

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Old 09-24-11 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by zazenzach
why do people keep spouting this nonsense?
drop bars are vastly superior for riding and it offers no disadvantages to seeing traffic once you get used to them.
How so?
I ride both. In town the upright riding position is more comfortable, I can see better and my hands are always near my brakes.
Flat bar roadies usually support wider, more comfortable more flat resistant tires too. And mudguards.
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Old 09-24-11 | 04:38 PM
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Originally Posted by znomit
How so?
I ride both. In town the upright riding position is more comfortable, I can see better and my hands are always near my brakes.
Flat bar roadies usually support wider, more comfortable more flat resistant tires too. And mudguards.
You forgot to mention that you can wear your favorite shirt, cargo pants and tennis shoes.
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Old 09-24-11 | 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by baj32161
Such as? Are you telling us that for a beginning, or just returning rider returning after 15 years would regret the purchase of an $800 road bike?

Today's entry level bikes out-perform bikes of the same level 15 years ago. They are lighter, STI Shifting has replaced downtube shifting, materials and components technology have trickled down to a point where entry-mid level componentry is more than good enought for most of today's cyclists (including myself)/

What kind of HUGE compromises would he be making?
1) The weight of the bike
2) 105 is a much better gear set.

I believe in buying a new bike once every ten years and with a Cad 10 you could be happy and competitive for long time.
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Old 09-24-11 | 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
1) The weight of the bike
2) 105 is a much better gear set.

I believe in buying a new bike once every ten years and with a Cad 10 you could be happy and competitive for long time.
105 is good stuff, good enough for pro racing, but even a top amateur could crush souls with Sora. It's really more about how well you've got it tuned than the actual hardware, as well as if you have a 3-ring triple or a 2-ring double (double shifts more cleanly.)

I've got a top-of-line DA and a Sora bike, and I can say with absolute confidence that the Sora does not hold me back in any way whatsoever. If anything, it teaches me better shifting practices, as on the DA, you definitely have more leeway to shift under very high stress and it'll usually make it, whereas the Sora will definitely be slower if you're trying to shift through a powerful stroke. Better to avoid that shifting-under-severe stress situation entirely and get into the right gear before the hammering hits.

If you're definitely planning on racing, definitely consider saving the money for 105 - if only to avoid the 'what if?' factor that inevitably gets you if you race and get Sora. I don't have that mindset as I've already got a DA bike, so I know what I'm (not) missing with the Sora.
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Old 09-24-11 | 05:46 PM
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These look great for the money - Reynolds steel, compact crank + 105

https://bikesdirect.com/products/schw..._legacy_xi.htm
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Old 09-24-11 | 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by sced
These look great for the money - Reynolds steel, compact crank + 105

https://bikesdirect.com/products/schw..._legacy_xi.htm
Nice...Great Price too!

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Old 09-25-11 | 05:20 AM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
1)

I believe in buying a new bike once every ten years and with a Cad 10 you could be happy and competitive for long time.
Why ten? Why not 15? Heck, it's a bike. Not a house. Don't like it - flip it.
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Old 09-25-11 | 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
1) The weight of the bike
2) 105 is a much better gear set.

I believe in buying a new bike once every ten years and with a Cad 10 you could be happy and competitive for long time.
For a beginning rider, why is bike weight SO important? If we are all honest with ourselves (well, maybe most of us), even some of the more experienced of us, our search for the light weight super bikes and hopes of any perfromance advantage based upon that alone is a pipe dream and a stupid waste of money. As for being "competetive," the OP never said anything about competition. I was answering the post based upon his concerns, not on everyone's perceptions.
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Old 09-25-11 | 06:51 AM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
1)

I believe in buying a new bike once every ten years and with a Cad 10 you could be happy and competitive for long time.
Competitive? Like winning the MUP wars?
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Old 09-25-11 | 07:21 AM
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Originally Posted by NoobAtIt
Thanks to everyone for helping me out. I was looking for a road bike. I've ridden flat bar bikes, I don't like them. They felt heavy, and slow. The reason I want a road bike is because I also plan on riding longer distances. I went to my lbs but the service was quite awful. I told them my budget and he said just buy one bike first, save and get the other. I have about $400 extra for pedals, helmets, shoes and water bottles.

I plan on taking my bike for long distances on the weekends. Don't want a flat bar for that. Been looking around and I see Cannondale has their Sora equipped Synapse and CAAD8 under $900. Are these suitable bikes for my needs? And is upgrading to higher end components in a couple of months a good idea? I'm a fast learner and I am set on riding a lot. But I also don't want to buy a $1500 bike. I know buying the bike with the better components now, is far more economical than upgrading components later, but my wife would feel left out if I go riding alone. It sucks but I have to get the lower priced bike now. Also, sometimes plans go to ****, wouldnt want to have a $1500 bike sitting around, not being used.

Will hit some other lbs soon, and look for deals on older models. Thank you all for your patience and input.
Your LBS made a strong case for you shopping at Bikes Direct. While there is nothing at all wrong with Sora, for the same money at Bikes direct, you can get 105 or Ultegra on a good frame with good rims.

No shipping and no tax 105 bikes come in under 800 and Ultegras come in under 900.

https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/road_bikes.htm
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Old 09-27-11 | 06:21 AM
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https://www.jensonusa.com/store/produ...Bike%2011.aspx

I don't know anything about the bike, but looks pretty good for the price.
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Old 09-27-11 | 07:18 AM
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Any LBS bike for $700-$900 will be more than you will ever need.

I ride a Giant Defy3 that I got in 2008 for $650. Shimano 2200/Sora parts (bottom end) and it's nearly perfect. ANd I ride pretty hard on it.

Pick the one that looks the best to you - seriously. The price differences are not significant at all in this price range - it's supercompetitive and all brands have slashed prices to minimal profits to try and capture you for future upgrades with them. Looks = everything at this price point. Not being facetious here, either.
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Old 09-27-11 | 07:30 AM
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Good point, this^^^
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Old 09-27-11 | 03:47 PM
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Thanks for the links, but I think I want to ride a bike before purchasing. Went to another lbs and they had the Specialized Alles for for $860. 2300 components, carbon fork. He only had a 58cm. Which looked too big for me. He said I should be on a 54cm. Waiting for his call. He said he'd have one this week.
I also looked around craigslist, but found most bikes are a tad expensive for being used. Most ads at least.
Bought this bike for $1600 in 05. I only want $1200. LOL. Plus, I run the prospect of buying a damaged or stolen bike.
I think I'm leaning towards the Specialized. But I'm still going to visit other shops.
Thanks for the help.
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Old 09-27-11 | 06:50 PM
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Specialized Allez is a good bike, if it fits.
I also like Giants as well who I think makes best bang for the buck bikes at all levels.

I hope your budget covers all the typical necessary accessories. At a minimum, you'll need a helmet and repair tools/items. And if you're planning on long rides, you'll definitely need bike shorts and even bike specific shoes and pedals.
These things add up very quickly. My wife knows as she pays the bills
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Old 09-27-11 | 06:52 PM
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https://www.bikesdirect.com/products/...e_xi_steel.htm
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Old 09-27-11 | 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
To me the best road bike for the money is a Cad 10 105 for $1,200. I think if you go below that price level you are making huge compromises that you will regret.
You should really stop giving out advice.


Originally Posted by hhnngg1
Any LBS bike for $700-$900 will be more than you will ever need.

I ride a Giant Defy3 that I got in 2008 for $650. Shimano 2200/Sora parts (bottom end) and it's nearly perfect. ANd I ride pretty hard on it.

Pick the one that looks the best to you - seriously. The price differences are not significant at all in this price range - it's supercompetitive and all brands have slashed prices to minimal profits to try and capture you for future upgrades with them. Looks = everything at this price point. Not being facetious here, either.
And on the other hand, these are words of wisdom.

Last edited by MegaTom; 09-27-11 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 10-25-11 | 04:27 PM
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Since rain season is here, I've decided to wait till the end of the year to buy a bike. My budget increased to a little over a thousand. I'm looking at the 2012's Felt F85, Bianchi Via Nirone Sora, Trek 1.2, and the Cannondale CAAD8 Sora. The Tiagras are a bit expensive. Maybe I can find a 2011 model on sale. I'm paying cash, hopefully I get a better deal. I've read plenty of threads saying don't ask for a discount, but that's just dumb. Is it taboo to ask for a discount in the cycling community?
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Old 10-25-11 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by NoobAtIt
Since rain season is here, I've decided to wait till the end of the year to buy a bike. My budget increased to a little over a thousand. I'm looking at the 2012's Felt F85, Bianchi Via Nirone Sora, Trek 1.2, and the Cannondale CAAD8 Sora. The Tiagras are a bit expensive. Maybe I can find a 2011 model on sale. I'm paying cash, hopefully I get a better deal. I've read plenty of threads saying don't ask for a discount, but that's just dumb. Is it taboo to ask for a discount in the cycling community?
That one...

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Old 10-25-11 | 05:42 PM
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I think if you have increased your budget to $1000 and you don't get at least 105 components, you are making a mistake.

A few people on here have recently purchased the BMC SR02 from competitive cyclist, myself included. I too was weary of purchasing a bike online without riding it. I am so glad that I purchased this bike. The ride is so much better than the other 105 bikes I was looking at in stores that were priced around $1300. Im very satisfied and highly recommend the bike.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/fr...bike-8902.html
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Old 10-25-11 | 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by v70cat
To me the best road bike for the money is a Cad 10 105 for $1,200. I think if you go below that price level you are making huge compromises that you will regret.
The best bike for <$800 is a $1200 bike. I would hope so
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Old 10-25-11 | 06:08 PM
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Originally Posted by mpgolfpro
I think if you have increased your budget to $1000 and you don't get at least 105 components, you are making a mistake.

A few people on here have recently purchased the BMC SR02 from competitive cyclist, myself included. I too was weary of purchasing a bike online without riding it. I am so glad that I purchased this bike. The ride is so much better than the other 105 bikes I was looking at in stores that were priced around $1300. Im very satisfied and highly recommend the bike.

https://www.competitivecyclist.com/fr...bike-8902.html

Any whiy is that so? Shimano Sora is not a garbage group. There are many riders in here who have been riding Sora equipped bikes for years and many thousands of miles. I just sold my back up bike for twice what i paid for it after owning it and ridng it for 4 years and I got it used in 2007...it was a 2003 Raleigh Grand Sport and I put a couple thousand miles on it myself and I don't know how many I had on it when I got it. This "you will regret not getting 105`is simply nonsense. For someone who hasn`t ridden in years, or has never ridden a road bike, Sora will be leaps and bounds better than what they are used to.

I realize that this is BF and the 41, but can we not just answer a person`s inquiry honestly without baseless opinions and suggesting they spend more of THEIR money. I swear...it almost seems like you want the credit for the person liking their bike
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Old 10-25-11 | 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by baj32161
Any whiy is that so? Shimano Sora is not a garbage group. There are many riders in here who have been riding Sora equipped bikes for years and many thousands of miles. I just sold my back up bike for twice what i paid for it after owning it and ridng it for 4 years and I got it used in 2007...it was a 2003 Raleigh Grand Sport and I put a couple thousand miles on it myself and I don't know how many I had on it myself. This "you will regret not getting 105`is simply nonsense. For someone who hasn`t ridden in years, or has never ridden a road bike, Sora will be leaps and bounds better than what they are used to.

I realize that this is BF and the 41, but can we not just answer a person`s inquiry honestly without baseless opinions and suggesting they spend more of THEIR money. I swear...it almost seems like you want the credit for the person liking their bike
Yes. I agree. Sora is good. Will last for thousands of miles if merely maintained and adjusted (as with any group).

A new rider should just get an $800. entry-level bike, "not" upgrade it (except for transferable upgrades like a saddle, handlebar, tape, brake pads, pedals, tires, tubes, wheelset, etc...) ride the dickens out of it, find out what type of riding they want to do (recreational, racing, etc...) then upgrade once they know better what they want.

While they are riding the entry-level bike, they can save their pennies and then get what they want later. They might just stick with the entry-level bike or want something more than entry level and get a 105 equipped carbon bike or they might want to go cojones out and get a $5,000. uber ride.

Today, an $800. roadbike will last a new rider for years (provided that they don't catch the Upgraditis).

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Old 10-25-11 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by SlimRider
Nice...Great Price too!

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Agreed, that Schwinn is pretty! Also the BMC at cc is an insane deal(but slightly above your budget. Don't put too much stock in a test ride. As long as you are comfortable with frame size and geometry, you'll do ok. You can always spring for a professional fitting after you have the bike (@ $75). The Schwinn has a 520 frame and 105. Crazy price at $800 including shipping. Get 2 and you and the Mrs. Hit the road!
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Old 10-25-11 | 07:25 PM
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For less than 1000 u can get a bmc street racer or a cannondale. Anything else are just bikes.
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