deep aero wheel questions
#1
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From: New England
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Xenith Comp
deep aero wheel questions
not sure this question has an answer, but i'd at least like some input.
i might have an opportunity to get a good deal on some nice wheels, so i'm thinking about picking up a set. i compete in road races, crits, the occasional stage race (which often includes a TT), and triathlons. the wheels would mostly be for tris and TTs, especially because i'm considering a half-ironman and eventually an ironman.
do i look for something really deep - 80-100 mm - and plan to use it only for tris/TTs? or do i look for something not quite as deep - maybe 50mm - that i could also use for the occasional road race? i guess the question really is this: given that i'd be using it mostly for tris/TTs, is something more versatile like 50mm really deep enough to be worth it?
also, how much of a hassle are tubulars if you're only using them for races?
thanks guys.
i might have an opportunity to get a good deal on some nice wheels, so i'm thinking about picking up a set. i compete in road races, crits, the occasional stage race (which often includes a TT), and triathlons. the wheels would mostly be for tris and TTs, especially because i'm considering a half-ironman and eventually an ironman.
do i look for something really deep - 80-100 mm - and plan to use it only for tris/TTs? or do i look for something not quite as deep - maybe 50mm - that i could also use for the occasional road race? i guess the question really is this: given that i'd be using it mostly for tris/TTs, is something more versatile like 50mm really deep enough to be worth it?
also, how much of a hassle are tubulars if you're only using them for races?
thanks guys.
#2
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Joined: Jul 2010
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Bikes: Cervélo S2
I used 808s at my HIM this weekend and got knocked around a bit. Also (seemed) like I'd have rather had lighter wheels than the more aero ones. My regular wheels are 40mm, and I think they're a better all around set.
#3
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Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Tariffville, CT
Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track
Get tubulars. Lighter for a given height. And you can go tall in the back.
I know the HED line best so I'd get Stinger 9 rear, Stinger 9 front, Stinger 6 front (or maybe Stinger 4). One tall wheel for the rear, a tall and a shorter wheel for the front. (9=90, 6=60, 4=40mm tall)
I've run my Stinger 6s in airfield crits near the shore with gusty winds, also at Bethel which is historically windy, no problems. If I could get two more wheels I'd get a Stinger 9 rear and a Stinger 4 front. If I had to choose just one I'd choose the Stinger 9 rear, sell the Stinger 6 rear, and try and get a Stinger 4 front, leaving me with a S9 rear, S6 and S4 front.
If you only race on them (and sometimes try them out in training to check them over) tubulars aren't a big deal, esp with a deep tire well like the Stingers have.
I know the HED line best so I'd get Stinger 9 rear, Stinger 9 front, Stinger 6 front (or maybe Stinger 4). One tall wheel for the rear, a tall and a shorter wheel for the front. (9=90, 6=60, 4=40mm tall)
I've run my Stinger 6s in airfield crits near the shore with gusty winds, also at Bethel which is historically windy, no problems. If I could get two more wheels I'd get a Stinger 9 rear and a Stinger 4 front. If I had to choose just one I'd choose the Stinger 9 rear, sell the Stinger 6 rear, and try and get a Stinger 4 front, leaving me with a S9 rear, S6 and S4 front.
If you only race on them (and sometimes try them out in training to check them over) tubulars aren't a big deal, esp with a deep tire well like the Stingers have.
#4
First of all how fast are you in your triathlons?
If you're riding at over 20 - 22 mph, they may make a difference. Otherwise they're just heavy and nothing else. They look really cool though. But unless you're doing half iron or Iron length tri's where you'll gain an additional 2 mph if you're doing 22mph+ (most benefit is in excess of 24mph).
Next, high end wheels will perform better due to better bearings, lighter weight, better aero characteristic, proven r & d, and so forth. If you are simply wanting to go faster, getting the cheapest deep aero rimmed wheels may not give you a significant speed increase. especially if you are a sub 22mph triathlete.
Lastly, the depth of the rim can be a deeply debated subject on its own after the first 2 thoughts have been considered. But the wheel depth is definitely the last consideration. Deeper is better... IF you are faster already. ...and, IF its not windy. ...and, IF its not hilly.
You're in New England right?
I personally think that if you've satisfied the first 2 criteria, probably zipp 404 firecrest CC wheels would be the deepest you should go. But you may get more speed from lighter slightly less aero wheels.
Mostly have fun.
If you're riding at over 20 - 22 mph, they may make a difference. Otherwise they're just heavy and nothing else. They look really cool though. But unless you're doing half iron or Iron length tri's where you'll gain an additional 2 mph if you're doing 22mph+ (most benefit is in excess of 24mph).
Next, high end wheels will perform better due to better bearings, lighter weight, better aero characteristic, proven r & d, and so forth. If you are simply wanting to go faster, getting the cheapest deep aero rimmed wheels may not give you a significant speed increase. especially if you are a sub 22mph triathlete.
Lastly, the depth of the rim can be a deeply debated subject on its own after the first 2 thoughts have been considered. But the wheel depth is definitely the last consideration. Deeper is better... IF you are faster already. ...and, IF its not windy. ...and, IF its not hilly.
You're in New England right?
I personally think that if you've satisfied the first 2 criteria, probably zipp 404 firecrest CC wheels would be the deepest you should go. But you may get more speed from lighter slightly less aero wheels.
Mostly have fun.
#6
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From: Vienna, VA
Bikes: 2010 Fuji Roubaix 2.0. 2006 Iron Horse Azure Expert
#8
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From: New England
Bikes: 2010 Jamis Xenith Comp
thanks for all the input. sounds like maybe 48 or 50 mm is the way to go.
WCSting - on a road bike, with no aero gear whatsoever, i usually avg 21-22 mph for TTs and tris (as long as the course isn't a complete roller coaster). if i try to get really aero, though, i can tell the road bike setup isn't optimal and i can't put out power as efficiently. i'll probably get a tri bike soon. longest tri i've done so far is olympic distance, but i will be doing longer in the future. i'm not necessarily looking for the absolute cheapest option but zipps are really out of my budget.
AdelaaR - thinking about doing that, except with a disc cover instead of an actual disc.
WCSting - on a road bike, with no aero gear whatsoever, i usually avg 21-22 mph for TTs and tris (as long as the course isn't a complete roller coaster). if i try to get really aero, though, i can tell the road bike setup isn't optimal and i can't put out power as efficiently. i'll probably get a tri bike soon. longest tri i've done so far is olympic distance, but i will be doing longer in the future. i'm not necessarily looking for the absolute cheapest option but zipps are really out of my budget.
AdelaaR - thinking about doing that, except with a disc cover instead of an actual disc.
#9
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From: Delaware shore
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Aero wheels help regardless of the speed. Do some research and you'll find that the proporational benefit is graeter for slower riders than faster. I just don't have the time to explain now but you can check and see why
#10
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A set of 404s or the like in around 58 to 60mm depth IMO will get you the best all around wheelset - whether it be for fast group rides, managing windy conditions or not suffering a penalty for serious climbing rides. Then when you want to TT them you can just add a wheel cover to the rear to take it up to another whole level.
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