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how to increase acceleration?

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Old 10-28-11 | 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by bermanfb28
whats up with the gay pic?
it's only gay if you like it.

Originally Posted by ultraman6970
I agree with this, the bike and wheels have nothing to do with his problem, some people just dont have it. Some people just ride 53x14 for years and suddenly after the year #4 they start wondering why instead of getting faster they got slower and slower.

Too many things to mention, but the op should start describing candence he use, gears he use, etc etc because there is no way to know what are u doing wrong.

The saddest part for some riders is that they simply suck and not even training they will improve that much. I have seen and raced with people like that too, just givin' my opinion ok?
my max sprint is currently 31.x mph. i cant remember exactly what gear but it was either 50x17 or 50x16. i run 23c tires.

i sprint out of the saddle and can hold it only like 5 seconds. i got a feeling im one of the many that can improve in max speed but acceleration lacks.

Originally Posted by Inertianinja
I will try to articulate it better than "pedal harder"

1. To train your legs, do max effort intervals from a near stop. You need to learn what it feels like to be using all available muscles at their max...every time, push yourself harder.

2. Higher cadence. It's easier to accelerate when you're already spinning. You can always hop down a gear if it's too easy. Be able to explode and spin up to 120rpm smoothly.

3. Equipment - fewer grams means less inertia which means faster acceleration at the same effort level. 454g = 1lb. Soul S2.0 are 1300g for $500.
1. near stop as in like 5mph? or dead stop?

2. should i accelerate or start my sprint at 90rpm instead? at 120 seems to be the threshold-ish. and do i shift up 1 gear or should i stick with 1 gear and just top out?

3. are the souls exactly 1300g? id be saving about <200grams if i switch, not sure if i wanna do that just yet.
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Old 10-28-11 | 07:50 PM
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From: Me, I'm in Central Alabama C.S.A. But my husband is under the bed. He's sure there is a black helicopter orbiting our house.

Bikes: Schwin,Ross,Cannondale.

You jumped me for spending $1200 on a set of carbon wheels and asked if they used grease and then you post this about your wheels?
Just and keep working at it. It will come in time.
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Old 10-28-11 | 07:54 PM
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You need to practice higher intensity interval riding.

A key thing though, is that you don't have to blow yourself out every time. On a good training plan, you'll go hard, but not kill yourself on most of those hard intervals, saving your 100% for race day. A lot folks who intend to get faster try to go all out all the time, and quickly get discouraged and quit after a few weeks of it because it's too hard and unsustainable.
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:08 PM
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jumped you? you think im coming on to you?
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:16 PM
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From: Me, I'm in Central Alabama C.S.A. But my husband is under the bed. He's sure there is a black helicopter orbiting our house.

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Originally Posted by dleccord
jumped you? you think im coming on to you?
LOL,,, Ummm no. Just reflecting on a past post
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
I have a fairly decent bike and would like to be able to chase when the people I ride with attacks. How do I explode and stay on their wheel? I ride cheap set of wheels (Xero xr1) on my CAAD9. Can that impede me from quick acceleration because of the low spoke count? I weigh 142.1lbs in a compact crankset.

Thanks,
Katherine
This has nothing to do with your bike. Its about tactics and fitness.

Tactically you need to go when the attack goes. Keep your eyes on those who have a tendency to be the attackers so that your ready when the attack happens. You don't want to be closing any gap.

Start working some max effort intervals (10s, 20s, 30s, 60s) into your training so that your body becomes familiar with and more able to responded to these types of efforts. These efforts are "painful" (htfu) especially when you do them in succession with and equal period of time as recovery between each one. If you aren't willing to work on this part of your training your never going to be able to successfully go with the attacks.
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
1. near stop as in like 5mph? or dead stop?

2. should i accelerate or start my sprint at 90rpm instead? at 120 seems to be the threshold-ish. and do i shift up 1 gear or should i stick with 1 gear and just top out?

3. are the souls exactly 1300g? id be saving about <200grams if i switch, not sure if i wanna do that just yet.
The near-stop thing - the point is to lose your momentum and then hit it as hard as you can.
The high-cadence thing makes it easier to accelerate when you're already putting out an effort. The idea is that you pedal at ~90rpm normally, but be able to spin out a gear to really high cadence.

Note, these drills were taught to me by coaches - one of which has won masters nationals a few times. So I'm passing it on.

Sean's s2.0 wheels are 1330g, yea.
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:27 PM
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If you're thinking of equipment to optimize your sprint and you have ~1500g wheels now, I would make sure your bars, stem and cranks are stiff as hell.

After that, practice sprinting. Crazy, I know.
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
I have a fairly decent bike and would like to be able to chase when the people I ride with attacks. How do I explode and stay on their wheel? I ride cheap set of wheels (Xero xr1) on my CAAD9. Can that impede me from quick acceleration because of the low spoke count? I weigh 142.1lbs in a compact crankset.

Thanks,
Katherine
You need more spokes. Also a compact crankset won't do it, I would convert it to a double big ring (53/53) and get a 11-21 cassette.
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:43 PM
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You should be able to hold at least 31 mph for 35, maybe 40 seconds, let it drop down to 25 for 15 seconds and then jump back up to 31. I've been able to sprint at over 30 mph for a significant portion of time on a friggin Trek hybrid bike, no kidding. It has nothing to do with your equipment. I used to see if I could do my entire ride standing and sprinting
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Old 10-28-11 | 08:44 PM
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so your doing 30mph in 50/16? that means your spinning 120+ rpm.

sit down, shift into a lower gear, and spool back up. stand up if necessary and repeat
the lower gears will "feel easier to spin" when your already spinning that fast.
if you get too bogged down (<90rpm) up shift until you can spin or stand up and stomp on those pedals.
got to use your lower gears if you want to go faster.

think a manual tranny in a car:
first gear + rev to redline = up shift to second...
second gear + rev to redline = up shift to third....
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Old 10-28-11 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by justkeepedaling
You should be able to hold at least 31 mph for 35, maybe 40 seconds, let it drop down to 25 for 15 seconds and then jump back up to 31. I've been able to sprint at over 30 mph for a significant portion of time on a friggin Trek hybrid bike, no kidding.
Sure. Downhill with a tailwind...
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Old 10-28-11 | 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ColinL
If you're thinking of equipment to optimize your sprint and you have ~1500g wheels now, I would make sure your bars, stem and cranks are stiff as hell.

After that, practice sprinting. Crazy, I know.
I have the carbon pro vibe bars. My stem is a Ritchey WCS. It's lightweight but I read somewhere that track cyclists like heavier and sturdier stems, but I'm not a heavy rider(?). And currently I have a 6700 crankset.

When I sprint, I try to be about 1' in front of my handlebars, and at that point, I feel like I havent develop enough stability since all my weight is at the front. Is this normal?
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Old 10-28-11 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by wkg
You need more spokes. Also a compact crankset won't do it, I would convert it to a double big ring (53/53) and get a 11-21 cassette.
Shouldnt I just go for a 54/53 instead of 2 of the same rings when I want to recover?
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Old 10-28-11 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by gg-madone
so your doing 30mph in 50/16? that means your spinning 120+ rpm.

sit down, shift into a lower gear, and spool back up. stand up if necessary and repeat
the lower gears will "feel easier to spin" when your already spinning that fast.
if you get too bogged down (<90rpm) up shift until you can spin or stand up and stomp on those pedals.
got to use your lower gears if you want to go faster.

think a manual tranny in a car:
first gear + rev to redline = up shift to second...
second gear + rev to redline = up shift to third....
Okay noted. But one lower gear burns, even at 90rpm.

What if I'm a Honda VTEC engine that likes to make power at higher rpms. Is that possible?
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:07 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
Shouldnt I just go for a 54/53 instead of 2 of the same rings when I want to recover?
You're probably right. Also you might want to have two 11's at the bottom of your cassette so that when you destroy one halfway through the sprint you'll still have one that your chain won't just slip over.
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:18 PM
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Originally Posted by gregf83
Sure. Downhill with a tailwind...
Actually in Davis, which is pancake flat, and into a headwind. Speed was told from a police speed trap, so might be off +- 1 mph. My position on that bike was probably more aggressive than most time trial positions, it was a modified Obree position. That was also with flat pedals and a triple (i think). That bike was stolen

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Old 10-28-11 | 10:21 PM
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Originally Posted by wkg
You're probably right. Also you might want to have two 11's at the bottom of your cassette so that when you destroy one halfway through the sprint you'll still have one that your chain won't just slip over.
can't stack 2 11's.
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
Okay noted. But one lower gear burns, even at 90rpm.
so your telling me when you spool up to 30mph in 16t at 120 rpm and shift to 15t you bog down??? (assuming this is on a flat road or decline)
that burn is the suffering you need to get used to. its a good burn, unless it hurts at the joints. stand up and pedal through it and don't forget to breath. you have to raise your threshold.
You have to bulk up then. get to the gym and work on your legs with squats, leg presses, and lunges and don't forget to stretch out after, and also work your core muscles. you get your legs stronger will help you push the lower gears.

Originally Posted by dleccord
What if I'm a Honda VTEC engine that likes to make power at higher rpms. Is that possible?
even if your a crotch rocket reving 14k you need the torque to propel you forward.

you might want to change out your big chain ring from a 50t to a 48t. it would be a special order item. it would change your gear ratios so that you will be able to spool up the lower cogs. ask your lbs if they can get one from this company. https://www.specialites-ta.com/index_gb.php
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:25 PM
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He is trolling, just ignore.
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
When I sprint, I try to be about 1' in front of my handlebars,
WHY? you don't need to lean over so much. I'm sure all the guys don't mind it when they see you coming all bent over. are you seriously over your handlebars head in front of your hub?
all your power is wasted. hands in the drops, just stand up and pedal. your but should still hover the nose of your seat or be right in front of it. i'm picturing you as i were climbing a 35% grade on a flat road
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Old 10-28-11 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gg-madone
so your telling me when you spool up to 30mph in 16t at 120 rpm and shift to 15t you bog down??? (assuming this is on a flat road or decline)
that burn is the suffering you need to get used to. its a good burn, unless it hurts at the joints. stand up and pedal through it and don't forget to breath. you have to raise your threshold.
You have to bulk up then. get to the gym and work on your legs with squats, leg presses, and lunges and don't forget to stretch out after, and also work your core muscles. you get your legs stronger will help you push the lower gears.


even if your a crotch rocket reving 14k you need the torque to propel you forward.

you might want to change out your big chain ring from a 50t to a 48t. it would be a special order item. it would change your gear ratios so that you will be able to spool up the lower cogs. ask your lbs if they can get one from this company. https://www.specialites-ta.com/index_gb.php
i dont bog down but my legs just burn and i feel like i have to slow down to around 17mph.

and when you say core muscles, is that abs and back muscles?

Originally Posted by gg-madone
WHY? you don't need to lean over so much. I'm sure all the guys don't mind it when they see you coming all bent over. are you seriously over your handlebars head in front of your hub?
all your power is wasted. hands in the drops, just stand up and pedal. your but should still hover the nose of your seat or be right in front of it. i'm picturing you as i were climbing a 35% grade on a flat road
i figure cavendish get's over his handlebars when he's sprinting his last 200m. i thought that it was ideal to get less weight off the rear wheel so that pedaling is easier, is it not?
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Old 10-28-11 | 11:10 PM
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IMHO...U have to do more fix gear man, looks like you are fast enough the issue is that u dont have power. I still can do 50+ km/h in a super short accelerated sprint using 53x17 but cant hold it for more than 5 to 7 secs, my difference is that I dont have power and im like 100 pounds overweight, sum to that maybe 150 miles during this year, obviously i have to suck Use me as an example ok?

Fix gear with maybe 48x20 or something similar just to start... mix with accelerations... blah blah, old style pre season little kids type of training. I wont go any deep because is pretty long to explain... stuff like that will get your legs fast. Sure others have other methods but preseason stuff to gain high cadence nothing like the stuff reg harris used to do.

Good luck


ps: "i thought that it was ideal to get less weight off the rear wheel so that pedaling is easier, is it not?".. is not because of that is because he needs to use everything he has to move 53x11, in a matter of fact the bike gets harder to handle and goes jumping here and there in their sprints.

Last edited by ultraman6970; 10-28-11 at 11:15 PM.
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Old 10-28-11 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dleccord
i dont bog down but my legs just burn and i feel like i have to slow down to around 17mph.

and when you say core muscles, is that abs and back muscles?

i figure cavendish get's over his handlebars when he's sprinting his last 200m. i thought that it was ideal to get less weight off the rear wheel so that pedaling is easier, is it not?
get used to the burn. the burn is good. yes abs and back. helps you track straight. less side to side motion.

as for cavendash, yeah I guess (i'm no racer nor a coach.) but he's sprinting after how many 100+ miles. even pros are allowed bad form. when you flail side to side like that you lose power, its physics. I would think you want all your weight on the rear tire when accelerating. race geometry bikes have steep seat tube angles short chainstays abs wheelbase.
think mid engine super car and your the engine. yes im talking out my ass on this one

If your serious, there are plenty of training books and dvd that will help you progress.
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Old 10-29-11 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by gg-madone
as for cavendash, yeah I guess (i'm no racer nor a coach.) but he's sprinting after how many 100+ miles. even pros are allowed bad form. when you flail side to side like that you lose power, its physics. I would think you want all your weight on the rear tire when accelerating. race geometry bikes have steep seat tube angles short chainstays abs wheelbase.
think mid engine super car and your the engine. yes im talking out my ass on this one
Agreed (about the ass part). There is very low acceleration going on the 200m of a race. Remember they're starting from 60kph so the power required just to maintain speed is high and there isn't a lot leftover for acceleration. So traction is not an issue. Cav does what he needs to in order to get low and have less drag. It has nothing to do with weight distribution.
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