Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Riding Position

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Riding Position

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-22-12 | 12:21 PM
  #1  
rkelley23's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Alamo Heights, TX

Bikes: 2012 CAAD 10

Riding Position

So I've been ridding for about 3 years now, When i got my first bike (trek1.1) I was not very flexible and had no experience so the saddle to bar drop was minimal. The past year i bought a CAAD 10 and love it and the more aggressive ridding position but having been on it for a while I'm feeling a bit too upright. There are a fair amount of spacers underneath the stem so how do I go about removing them and lowering my stem?
rkelley23 is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 12:27 PM
  #2  
triumph.1's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,288
Likes: 0
From: N Central Illinois

Bikes: 12 Bianchi Oltre VDCM,11 Bianchi Cavaria, 13 Bianchi Cavaria,12 Bianchi infinito, couple vintage Bianchi's and a 1980 alan super record

easy method: unscrew top cap pull off bars and remove spacers from bottom and put the spacers on top of bars and then replace top cap or difficult method: you could probably cut the fork tube down if you are really confident. I chose the easy method.

Last edited by triumph.1; 01-22-12 at 12:37 PM.
triumph.1 is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 12:32 PM
  #3  
caloso's Avatar
Senior Member
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 40,863
Likes: 3,115
From: Sacramento, California, USA

Bikes: Specialized Tarmac, Canyon Exceed, Specialized Transition, Ellsworth Roots, Ridley Excalibur

I would go easy about it. First, just move one spacer from below the stem to above the stem. Ride it for a few weeks and see how you like it. If you're still feeling too upright, move another spacer to the top and try that for awhile.
caloso is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 12:38 PM
  #4  
rkelley23's Avatar
Thread Starter
Senior Member
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 502
Likes: 0
From: Alamo Heights, TX

Bikes: 2012 CAAD 10

Thanks guys, I figured I wouldn't cut the steerer until i was uber confident in the position.
rkelley23 is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 12:53 PM
  #5  
WhyFi's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,726
Likes: 9,738
From: TC, MN

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

As mentioned above, take it in increments as opposed to all at once - keep it mind that it'll change the handling and feel.

Also, when you're putting it back together, remember that you're going to tighten your stem to the steerer LAST. You need to snug the top cap to load the fork/steerer first, so that there's no play, then tighten the stem.
WhyFi is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 12:59 PM
  #6  
Mike F's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,185
Likes: 9
From: San Diego

Bikes: Domane SLR Gen 4

Originally Posted by WhyFi
Also, when you're putting it back together, remember that you're going to tighten your stem to the steerer LAST. You need to snug the top cap to load the fork/steerer first, so that there's no play, then tighten the stem.
+1. I did the opposite the first time and for the life of me couldnt figure out the play when I applied the front break and moved the bike back and forth.
Mike F is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 01:06 PM
  #7  
Road Fan's Avatar
Senior Member
20 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 17,196
Likes: 761
From: Ann Arbor, MI

Bikes: 1980 Masi, 1984 Mondonico, 1984 Trek 610, 1980 Woodrup Giro, 2005 Mondonico Futura Leggera ELOS, 1967 PX10E, 1971 Peugeot UO-8

It's "brake," unless it broke.
Road Fan is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 01:51 PM
  #8  
Mike F's Avatar
Senior Member
10 Anniversary
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 2,185
Likes: 9
From: San Diego

Bikes: Domane SLR Gen 4

Originally Posted by Road Fan
It's "brake," unless it broke.
Doh! Im usually good about that.
Mike F is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 02:07 PM
  #9  
Banned.
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 105
Likes: 1
From: Usa

Bikes: mgTer

I'm in a similar position. I've got significantly more drop than what I used to (still not much compared to some), and I've found that taking it slow helps. My spacers are all 5mm, and when I first started experimenting with removing them for more drop, I just moved one at a time and then rode it for a week or so to see how I liked it. If I wanted more, I'd move another one. I feel pretty comfortable with where it is now, though I could still drop it more if I wanted.

For me, though, I'm not going to cut the steerer tube in the forceable future, though I definitely could. The amount of drop I have now is comfortable for my average ride (2 - 3 hours), but this summer I'm riding across the country, and I want to be able to bump the handlebars up if 5-8 hours in the saddle every day proves to be a bit too much.

All that to say, I'd leave a little extra room just incase. It's easy enough to move the spacers, so long as you tighten the cap before the stem, like everyone has said. Unless you have an ungodly amount of tube above the stem, you're OCD, or you're racing, I say leave as much as you can.
hollowmen is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 02:10 PM
  #10  
WhyFi's Avatar
Senior Member
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 39,726
Likes: 9,738
From: TC, MN

Bikes: R3 Disc, Haanjo

This is inspiring me to finally remove the rest of the periscope on my bike.
WhyFi is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 04:22 PM
  #11  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 7,296
Likes: 577
From: Loveland, CO

Bikes: Cervelo Rouvida x 2

I've always used a lot of drop, but around age 55, I decided to try increasing my drop from 9cm to 11cm, all at once. I changed from an 84 degree stem to a 73, since I had no spacers to remove. Didn't take long at all to get used to it.

Increasing my reach is another story. With a short torso, I use about all the reach I can tolerate, to maintain knee to arm clearance, when pedaling with hands in the hooks. Even a 5mm increase in reach can bring on some discomfort in the shoulder area.

Last edited by DaveSSS; 01-22-12 at 04:54 PM.
DaveSSS is offline  
Reply
Old 01-22-12 | 07:47 PM
  #12  
Senior Member
 
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 2,853
Likes: 261
Originally Posted by DaveSSS
I've always used a lot of drop, but around age 55, I decided to try increasing my drop from 9cm to 11cm, all at once. I changed from an 84 degree stem to a 73, since I had no spacers to remove. Didn't take long at all to get used to it.

Increasing my reach is another story. With a short torso, I use about all the reach I can tolerate, to maintain knee to arm clearance, when pedaling with hands in the hooks. Even a 5mm increase in reach can bring on some discomfort in the shoulder area.
What is this knee to arm clearance requirement for riding in the drops?
Dean V is offline  
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
vinuneuro
Road Cycling
2
07-26-16 09:26 PM
profjmb
Road Cycling
12
06-26-13 11:33 AM
corwin1968
Bicycle Mechanics
7
07-27-12 09:17 AM
bianchi10
Road Cycling
53
09-16-11 04:04 AM
fatslowbiker
Road Cycling
3
07-28-10 04:07 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.