Ok, so I got word back from FSA. (nothing from Cannondale, btw) FSA's comments/suggestions were as follows:

Spacers only to achieve an acceptable amount of compression of the wavy washer. Secondary comments were to manipulate chain line if wanted/needed. I specifically inquired about measuring wavy washer collapse but they had no interest in using feelers or any other type of gaging except....(and I quote)...."by eye!". I found this a bit interesting but nonetheless.....that's what they said. The FSA tech was quite personable and very down to earth too. Another nice and I think pertinent point by them is that THEY CALLED ME BACK WITHOUT BEING PROMPTED TO DO SO. (big thumbs up, especially considering Cannondale has yet to respond!)

*My* experience (and I even used my daughter's eye as a 2nd opinion) was that 1 spacer (on the non-DS side) was plenty to create at least 50% crush of the wavy washer....(I'd have called it closer to 75% if I had to bet on it).....and I even test rode & re-torqued to ensure accuracy. Best of all (at least for the last couple rides I've taken it on).....things are QUIET! (aaahhhhhh!!!)

I did use the Loctite 609 and dressed the BB cups w/ a Q-tip and also dressed the outer races. (My EVO is a 2014 and did not have the typical full-length sleeve using standard C-clips that most reference and I assume that to mean most BB30 BB's have switched to "cups" that have a built-in retaining wall in their innermost point.)

I did the home-made press thing using a 5/8-11 x 5" bolt and nut & washers along with my Park BB30.3 tool which including the bearing punch and the press bushings. All went well, though I'd suggest to all to VERY carefully inspect that the new bearings are pressed in all the way. I had to take a 2nd run at the bearings as the "first sign of resistance" was not enough and they needed to be pressed further to completely seat them against the inner retainers.

Here's some pics showing probable wear points on my BB30 cups as well as some minor pitting on the outer races as well. I'm almost wondering if the worn spots of my cups aren't a combination of an initial "reaming" by Cannondale to make the circles concentric, followed by the actual lateral movement of my bearings. (originally installed with grease....no sign of 609 anywhere)

Here's some pics......













P.S. I was also a little leary of the "Enduro" bearing quality....well at least the races. One of the inner races had some unusual grinding on it that left a section of it a different width than the rest of the inner race. The other bearing was pretty uniform. I also have a Token brand BB30 replacement kit as a 2nd backup just to have on hand & those bearings look a little nicer. Could just be a coincidence but I took Enduro recommendation from a friend who swears they're good bearings.