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-   -   carbon fork : expander plug install question (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/799328-carbon-fork-expander-plug-install-question.html)

blcknspo0ln 02-17-12 02:11 PM

carbon fork : expander plug install question
 
I try not to ask fredly questions, but I need some reassurance. I just installed a full carbon fork + FSA expander plug, but am still experiencing a rattle from the fork between the spacers.

Just so I have my install procedure correctly..
1) cut steerer
2) install crown race
3) install fork into frame
4) add spacers
5) hand tighten stem
6_ insert expander plug, torque inside bolt
7) add 5mm spacer
8) install top cap, torque
9) tighten stem

I then did more research and Specialized instructions specifically says that the there should not be a spacer between stem and top cap, but from the looks of it, the diameter of the topcap is smaller than the inside diameter of the stem (i.e., they wouldn't make contact).

thoughts?

intence 02-17-12 02:15 PM

it depends if there is any steerer sticking out above the stem. Although generally you want a bit sticking out (hence the spacer) to make sure the stem is clamping properly.

3kmi 02-17-12 02:27 PM

Don't tighten the stem before you tighten the expander plug.

merlinextraligh 02-17-12 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by 3kmi (Post 13864879)
Don't tighten the stem before you tighten the expander plug.

this.

eippo1 02-17-12 02:49 PM

Also, don't overtighten the expander plug. It only needs to be a shade over finger tight

svtmike 02-17-12 02:52 PM

Remove step 5.

dstrong 02-17-12 02:56 PM


Originally Posted by svtmike (Post 13864993)
Remove step 5.

This. Once you tighten the stem, torquing the top cap will only tighten the top cap against the stem...the headset will not be loaded (tightened), hence the play.

merlinextraligh 02-17-12 02:57 PM

Also, when you've tightened the top cap, before you tighten the stem bolts, put on the front brake, and roll the bike forward, until the rear wheel lifts off the ground.

If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.

GiantDefyGuy 02-17-12 03:12 PM


Originally Posted by merlinextraligh (Post 13865024)
Also, when you've tightened the top cap, before you tighten the stem bolts, put on the front brake, and roll the bike forward, until the rear wheel lifts off the ground.

If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.

Damn. That's a pretty good tip. Thanks. :thumb:

blcknspo0ln 02-17-12 03:21 PM

Very good advice guys, thanks!

So let's say I wanted to remove the spacer above the stem, there is about 2mm gap from the top of the steerer to the top of the stem (the stem is higher). Is this the way it should be?

merlinextraligh 02-17-12 03:25 PM


Originally Posted by blcknspo0ln (Post 13865163)
Very good advice guys, thanks!

So let's say I wanted to remove the spacer above the stem, there is about 2mm gap from the top of the steerer to the top of the stem (the stem is higher). Is this the way it should be?

Depends on the shape of the top cap. As long as the top cap doesn't bottom out on the steerer tube as it is tightened you're good.

If the bottom of the cap is convex, that might not be enough room to where it won't hit the steerer tube.

ljsense 02-17-12 03:26 PM

Yeah, some stem manufacturers say 3 mm or whatever, but the stem should be a bit higher than the steer tube (or have a spacer above the stem, depending on manuf).


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