carbon fork : expander plug install question
#1
Thread Starter
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From: NJ
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Allez 105
carbon fork : expander plug install question
I try not to ask fredly questions, but I need some reassurance. I just installed a full carbon fork + FSA expander plug, but am still experiencing a rattle from the fork between the spacers.
Just so I have my install procedure correctly..
1) cut steerer
2) install crown race
3) install fork into frame
4) add spacers
5) hand tighten stem
6_ insert expander plug, torque inside bolt
7) add 5mm spacer
8) install top cap, torque
9) tighten stem
I then did more research and Specialized instructions specifically says that the there should not be a spacer between stem and top cap, but from the looks of it, the diameter of the topcap is smaller than the inside diameter of the stem (i.e., they wouldn't make contact).
thoughts?
Just so I have my install procedure correctly..
1) cut steerer
2) install crown race
3) install fork into frame
4) add spacers
5) hand tighten stem
6_ insert expander plug, torque inside bolt
7) add 5mm spacer
8) install top cap, torque
9) tighten stem
I then did more research and Specialized instructions specifically says that the there should not be a spacer between stem and top cap, but from the looks of it, the diameter of the topcap is smaller than the inside diameter of the stem (i.e., they wouldn't make contact).
thoughts?
#4
pan y agua

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#7
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From: Awesome, Austin, TX
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#8
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
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From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
Also, when you've tightened the top cap, before you tighten the stem bolts, put on the front brake, and roll the bike forward, until the rear wheel lifts off the ground.
If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.
If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
#9
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From: New Orleans, USA.
Bikes: Giant Defy 3
Also, when you've tightened the top cap, before you tighten the stem bolts, put on the front brake, and roll the bike forward, until the rear wheel lifts off the ground.
If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.
If there's a clunk, the headset is too loose. Conversely if the steering binds, its too tight.
#10
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 386
Likes: 0
From: NJ
Bikes: 2009 Specialized Allez 105
Very good advice guys, thanks!
So let's say I wanted to remove the spacer above the stem, there is about 2mm gap from the top of the steerer to the top of the stem (the stem is higher). Is this the way it should be?
So let's say I wanted to remove the spacer above the stem, there is about 2mm gap from the top of the steerer to the top of the stem (the stem is higher). Is this the way it should be?
#11
pan y agua

Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 31,812
Likes: 1,234
From: Jacksonville
Bikes: Willier Zero 7; Merlin Extralight; Calfee Dragonfly tandem, Calfee Adventure tandem; Cervelo P2; Motebecane Ti Fly 29er; Motebecanne Phantom Cross; Schwinn Paramount Track bike
If the bottom of the cap is convex, that might not be enough room to where it won't hit the steerer tube.
__________________
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.
You could fall off a cliff and die.
You could get lost and die.
You could hit a tree and die.
OR YOU COULD STAY HOME AND FALL OFF THE COUCH AND DIE.







