Tubular Choices
#1
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Tubular Choices
I'm treating myself to some bike stuff this year and am leaning towards some tubulars, just because. I'll have around $3k to spend for wheels, cassette, and tires. I have it down to Reynolds 46/66, HED Stinger 7's or Zipp 404f 808r. Is there another wheel I should add to this list? Just to state right away, I'm too old, to slow, too fat, too tired, too much a Fred and don't race, I just want them. Right now my everyday wheels are DA 7850 50mm clinchers, which I really enjoy. Problem is I rode a loaner set of tubulars from the LBS and I really enjoyed the ride quality or feel of tubulars.
#3
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Both the Reynolds and the Stingers are tough wheels. My Zipp experience is dated but they were fragile.
I'd be more inclined to go for Stinger 6's over the 7's if you're using them as an everyday rider.
I'd be more inclined to go for Stinger 6's over the 7's if you're using them as an everyday rider.
#4
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I hear VeloNews is doing a review here for tubulars in the range you're looking for....
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#5
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Keep in mind rim width when selecting wheels. It's not a big deal to pull in or let out a cm of brake cable, but to clear some of the wider rims (I have Stinger 6s) takes a lot of doing. I don't know how it is now but when the 6s first came out people had to grind their brake arms or file off a bunch of brake pad just so the brake would clear the rim.
I bought the wider clincher rims with the Stinger 6s and I still have to unscrew the adjuster about 6? turns, maybe 8mm?, to get the brakes (I happen to run Skeleton brakes) open enough from the wide clinchers to the tubulars.
If I use regular width rims I'd need to unscrew the anchor bolt each time. Again, not a big deal, but I don't like the idea of loosening and tightening that bolt a couple hundred times a year. Also, if you're pressed for time, whether you just flatted before a ride or if you're racing or whatever, you probably don't have the time. At least it's one more thing you have to think about.
I bought the wider clincher rims with the Stinger 6s and I still have to unscrew the adjuster about 6? turns, maybe 8mm?, to get the brakes (I happen to run Skeleton brakes) open enough from the wide clinchers to the tubulars.
If I use regular width rims I'd need to unscrew the anchor bolt each time. Again, not a big deal, but I don't like the idea of loosening and tightening that bolt a couple hundred times a year. Also, if you're pressed for time, whether you just flatted before a ride or if you're racing or whatever, you probably don't have the time. At least it's one more thing you have to think about.
#7
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I think the builders name is Psimet or something. The price is probably lower than what the OP has budgeted as well. And if the OP is nice he can probably get skewers, tires, and a cassette from the wheel builder as well at a reasonable price.
This reminds me, I need to start thinking about carbon clinchers for everyday wheels....
#8
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I don't care what you get, but I would like to suggest that you run the super deep dish rim in front, where it is more effective. Put a 20mm climbing rim in back. It'll be dope.
#9
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I'd also look at these:
![](https://www.madfiber.com/images/roadwheels.jpg)
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#12
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I'm treating myself to some bike stuff this year and am leaning towards some tubulars, just because. I'll have around $3k to spend for wheels, cassette, and tires. I have it down to Reynolds 46/66, HED Stinger 7's or Zipp 404f 808r. Is there another wheel I should add to this list? Just to state right away, I'm too old, to slow, too fat, too tired, too much a Fred and don't race, I just want them. Right now my everyday wheels are DA 7850 50mm clinchers, which I really enjoy. Problem is I rode a loaner set of tubulars from the LBS and I really enjoyed the ride quality or feel of tubulars.
I have some DT Swiss RRC 425F/525R (essentially rebadged Reynolds 32's) and they make fantastic climbing wheels. They come in at around 1000g and use the trusty DT Swiss 240s hubs. Right now, they have some Vittoria Corsa tires glued onto them.
If I had your budget, I'd look into getting some custom handbuilt wheels with some good hubs like Alchemy Elf/Orc onto some Enve 45's.
Have you also considered Mavic Cosmic Carbone Ultimates? Some people don't like Mavic wheels but they are durable and have a simple, easy-to-maintain freehub design.
Just make sure to get some really decent tires. I think the rubber makes a bigger difference in terms of "feel" than the wheels in the price range you are talking about and what you intend to use them for.
#13
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Why was that smartass ?
For now I'll be using a 404 up front, and a non-aero wheel in back.
For now I'll be using a 404 up front, and a non-aero wheel in back.
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In a perfect world, but aero front is more important.
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#17
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Yeahhhh. The front hits the wind first. It hits it cleanly. Much more benefit to aero up front than in back where it's in the turbulent flow caused by the front wheel, frame, rider, etc. But it doesn't look balanced. If you risk two wheels in a crit why not risk one expensive one up front and one cheap one in back? Especially if you're on a budget.
But my sarcasm detector may not be warmed up this AM....
But my sarcasm detector may not be warmed up this AM....
#18
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According to Zipp, the front wheel contributes 68% to the aero benefit.
Although having both wheels aero benefits stability: " the extra rear surface area induces counter steer helping you keep balance"
Although having both wheels aero benefits stability: " the extra rear surface area induces counter steer helping you keep balance"
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#21
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if your not racing and have 3K for wheels I recomend finding some nice old fashioned alloy boxsection tubular rims (Mavic, Ambrosio, Fiammie) in 32hole and have them built onto hubs to match the gear on your bike. the ride quality will much better than with those deepdish areo things.
That way you spend about $800 or so building wheels and have the other 2K left to buy spare tires!!
I would see if there are a few guys around willing to let you try their wheels. if you lived close I would certainly let you try some of my old school wheels.
That way you spend about $800 or so building wheels and have the other 2K left to buy spare tires!!
I would see if there are a few guys around willing to let you try their wheels. if you lived close I would certainly let you try some of my old school wheels.
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#22
Looks like the OP isn't racing...so are you going to spend your money somewhere else?
It appears to me that one of the OP's cycling goals is to own a set of aero carbon tubular wheels.
It appears to me that one of the OP's cycling goals is to own a set of aero carbon tubular wheels.
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#24
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I figured he'd take my honest advice at giving a better edge in aerodynamics as sarcasm. I guess I was a little flip in how I presented it. There's just always going to be a cultural difference that's tricky to bridge between the racer who suffers over paying 1% more than he saw something sell at a swap and a dude who's just looking to bust out some fancy new race wheels for the group ride.
Whatever, I just want you and all your friends to buy carbon tubulars -- Enve, Reynolds, Zipp, Taiwan OEM, you name it -- ride it for a bit and then put it on eBay or craigslist. I seriously am the carbon tubular remora to your carbon tubular wallet shark.
Whatever, I just want you and all your friends to buy carbon tubulars -- Enve, Reynolds, Zipp, Taiwan OEM, you name it -- ride it for a bit and then put it on eBay or craigslist. I seriously am the carbon tubular remora to your carbon tubular wallet shark.
#25
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Na I jumped the gun, thanks for the advice. Just use to getting crapped on by all the racers who think they are all that. Believe me I wish I could race but I don't have the balls for it and reality unless you are making a living at raceing yo're just pretending anyway so flame away. I didn't research the whole front wheel to rear wheel advantage but it makes sense but looks god awfull. I to am full of sarcasim, now go jump on your bike and go in circuts real fast till someone rings a bell. lol