How do you determine the proper seat height on a Road Bike.

I had to do some work on my seat post, now i am unsure how i had the height before?

Suggestions on how the proper formula works?
thanks

I started with the Lemond method and tweeked from here when I got a new seatpost.

https://veloptimum.net/Velop/document...BR15juil10.htm

...many bike fit websites via Google. Depends on leg length mostly/obviously, but other factors too like forward/backward position of the seat. If all fails, go to a LBS and get a quick fit, you may have been off on what was best for you before.

And on a second note, use your rear reflector clamp to locate your seat post height. Put the reflector clamp at the top of your seat tube (in contact). When you pull your seat tube for maintenance/security you will know exactly where it goes when you put it back.

I started with the LeMond method as well. Then went up 3cm and forward 1.2cm.

I don't think any one formula is a black and white rule. They're all starting points and you can expect to go up or down through trial and error.

Rear reflector???

I put my rear blinky about 3 cm above the seat clamp. Saved my bacon (eggs too) when the post slipped. Hung up on blinky. The bike was new and there was no carbon paste.

Umm...not to be snarky, but did you really not do a search for the archived threads that have advice about this?

Here's a google search of the Bike Forums site, with 18,900 results (perhaps not all relevant, but you get the idea...)
https://www.google.com/search?source...w=1280&bih=699

Next time just put a piece of tape around the post to keep track of how far it should be inserted. For future reference, you may want to measure the saddle height and setback and record it somewhere. It can help you replicate your fit if you switch to a saddle of different length and stack height.

I've been using this method for years. Think it works way better than formulas based entirely on leg length.
https://www.bicycling.com/maintenance...st-your-saddle

it would yield the same result if you pedal with a flat foot. if you pedal toe-down, however, then this method would be better as it would yield a higher saddle yet not exceed optimal knee angle.

This method doesn't account for crankarm-length and leg-length. Someone with short legs and long crankarms with a 25-degree bend at 6-o'clock would be over-extended at the bottom of the stroke. Conversely, someone with long legs and shorter crankarms with a 35-degree bend at 6-o'clock wouldn't get enough extension to fully utilize their glutes.

I prefer methods that makes measurements when the crankarms are at the bottom of the stroke (parallel to seat-tube). This accounts for crankarm and leg lengths.

Seat-height also is related to the type of riding you do as well. On my mountain-bike, the saddle is about 6-7mm lower than my road-bike. The touring-bike's seat is 4mm lower than my road-bike. On my track-bike, it's 5mm higher than my road-bike.

Proper seat hight is a moving target if your weight fluctuates. Winter time, with some additional padding the seat goes down, summer and fit, the saddle goes back up.

That is quite sensible. If you take winters easy or entirely off, putting the bars up a tad is a good idea too.