I f-in HATE this KMC missing link
 

I bought a replacement KMC chain that came with its own missing link for quick removal.

Godd*** it I can't get this quick link to mount. Actually, I've got the plates attached but even with FULL BODY WEIGHT on the pedal to 'snap' it into place, the friggin' plates won't snap in. Yup, have the chain connected, missing link centered horizontally on top, and even with the back brake applied and jumping up and down repeatedly with one leg on the pedal, the link won't snap in. WTF.

There's a youtube video where some guy does it by hand with no force - what a bunch of bull.

If I can't attach it soon, I'm going to have to drag this pathetic thing to the LBS to have them plier it on.

What a waste.

Sounds defective. They are extremely easy to close.

Hello hhnngg1, I use KMC chains on my race bike and on my TT bike and I have no problems with the reusable link. There aren't any tricks to using it that I've needed to employ. Perhaps you have a "bad" link. I've also bought the link separately for use with Campagnolo Record 10 chains and it's worked well. I switched to another brand of link (that I can't recall right now) because my LBS said they worked better with Campagnolo chains. I haven't seen a difference. Wish I could provide more insight to your problem.

Ok I finally got it on. It was NOT easy. It required some serious stomping, probably 2-3x bodyweight for it to attach.

Just to check that I had it on correctly, I popped it open soon after getting it to attach. (This required a special tool that I had bought with the chain, the masterlink pliers from Park tool, otherwise I don't know how the F you would get that off.) Put it back on, and it was the same deal, even after liberal lubricating - required holding the back brake and literally jumping up and down on the pedal several times. This sounds like it should be easy, but mind you that before the masterlink is attached, the plates are very prone to falling apart, so half the time you start jumping on the pedal, the whole contraption just falls apart and you have to start all over again. Probably took me 5-6 repeated attemps to get it on.

I have to say - I'm totally , utterly underwhelmed with this masterlink thing. With the time it took me to learn how to attach it, get a special tool for removal, and get it working, I could have mastered using the chain tool to push out the pin just the right distance on a regular chain.

Not sure why this one is so hard, but FYI I had a similar experience on a different bike 3 years ago where I bought a KMC chain with a missing link and couldn't get it to install. Even the LBS had to use pliers and took them nearly 15 minutes to get it mounted correctly (I never once tried to break the link after that experience.) Was hoping for better luck this time but, no.

I'm going to try and different brand of powerlink from now on - these KMC links suck.

Think you are going to get a lot of opposition here hhnng1. I am a fan of the KMC missing link.
1. center it up top in the middle
2. stacatto snap with hand on the pedal.

A little engineering tip for engagement or removal. Stacatto 'always' trumps blunt/dull force. How do you apply the snap? With your hand and not your foot on the pedal. Don't need any brake on. Snap with the hand and click goes the link. Speed and not force wins the day.
That said, removal is a PITA. Masterlink pliers is the answer there as needle nose slip off the rollers when pinching together.

Yeah you are going to be in a microscopic group who don't like KMC. The pliers are a must. I think I bought them for $11 on amazon so it's not a big deal.

I read about this 'snap' before attempting the installation - and it definitely did NOT work for mine. I did exactly as you describe, although I do agree that speed trumps force in this situation. I may pop it off if I have time later today and see if I can get it on by hand, but for sure I was jerking it both super fast and super slow and all ranges in between by hand before realizing I'd probably end up with lacerations from my hand going into the chainrings since it totally wasn't working. KMC link was centered and on top which is also not as easy as it sounds - my links kept falling apart at first. It was better after the first installation, since they got a bit more purchase, but on the first go around, they totally wouldn't even hold together for a snap.

The first time I got it in, I had to jump up and down on the pedal like 20 times, for real. It was ridiculous. I had actually jumped up and down on the pedals with brake applied at least 10 times, full force before that and while the link didn't pop open, it DIDN'T connect - remained in the pre-locked position (WTF!). It really took a lot of jumping, violently to get it to lock in.

I did lubricate it as well, just to make sure the metal friction wasn't the cause.


But on the bright side - the master link removal tool works perfectly, no fuss. A small squeeze and the whole things just comes apart.

You don't need special pliers to get them off - squeeze diagonally.

Listen hhnngg 1, I have been using KMC Missing Links on both my road bike and mountain bike for a long time. You do need the pliers to un-install, but installing does not need all that weight you mentioned. I have never ever applied weight of any kind.

What to do is make yourself a little tool from a wire coathanger for installation. Cut a piece that is sufficient from a coat hanger, make it into a big V, then bend in the two top of the V in a little bit. The top of the V on both sides hook into the chain. This tool is used to make a slack in the chain, then work real easy to put the Missing Link in position. That's it. No weight necessary.

OP, how did you apply 2-3x your bodyweight?

This used to be true. I also used to be able to easily attach and remove them by hand. The last few months I have been getting in ones that are much tighter. This is a good thing.

OP - I have mounted hundreds of KMC missing links. I have yet to find one that was as hard as what you are describing. You either had a super bad/tight link, really can't align it well, or you're the kind of guy that calls the Mrs for help opening jars. Not that there's anything wrong with that.... :innocent:

I have found that lately I have to assemble the link and then run it through the back end of the drive train until it is above the chain stay, hold the brakes and put force on the pedal with my had - while in a stand - to set it. Never takes much force, but has required me to do it lately.

Also - sure you don't need the Park pliers. You can easily disconnect stubborn links with a set of well place pliers of any type. The Park Master Link tool is designed for the purpose and works well.

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He invited 2 or 3 of his same size or smaller cycling buddies over to help stand on the pedal. They were lured over with promises of technological wonder and free beer.

Sheer will.

Seconds on pasta and thirds on dessert.

Removing a SRAM 10 speed link can be tricky without the Park tool, but installing them is never hard.

Easy. Step on a scale and jump while stomping. Watch that needle go to between 2x-3x your body weight for a fraction of a second.

Hopefully I had a defective KMC link - I can assure everyone here that I did all the 'routine' stuff including the exact protocol listed by Psimet. I looked up the ways to do it on the web, and then searched again to make sure I was doing it right when it wouldn't go on. If it were so easy, I'm absolutely sure it would have gone on - everything I was doing was 'by the book' and exactly what you guys are describing.

And I'm also being truthful when I said my prior KMC experience was just as bad - the LBS, and an experienced one at that, took 15 minutes to mount the link, and this guy said it would take him less than 3 minutes at first. Used 3 sets of pliers to get it on, including requiring bending it a bit to widen it. Fortunately my current link didn't require this kind of work, but struck me as awfully bad luck to have 2 duds.

I had trouble with the KMC link initially until I read the directions. You have to pinch the two links together as you attach or remove them. Pinch and slide.

I buy KMC links by the card. I had one just like the OP is describing, and I have used them for years with no issue. I tried for about 5 min to get it to close, then opened another. The other 5 on the card were fine. I presume it's rare, but I'm pretty sure that an occasional out-of-spec link shows up.

I needed the tool to remove my KMC chain and went to the bike shop. I took a picture of the park tool and made my own out of an old set of pliers. I ground the sides down to 2mm and then bent the ends to hold on the rollers when applying pressure.

Small chuckle at the guys wondering how someone can apply 2-3 times their weight....This doesn't mean that dancing on the pedals while going uphill makes you heavier though.

That's bizarre.

Your riding style - can it be best decribed as "slam-dancing"?

what's the point of quick links when I have to shorten the chain anyways?

i can see the OP boiling over as he is trying to make this work....like homer simpson building a BBQ.....

Huh? Quick links are used after you shorten it as a way of joining the chain without having to join it with a permanent joining pin that are pRone to incorrect installation and failure.

Oh right. The last chain I did was in a hasty fashion and I clipped on the the sram link before thinking of shortening it. THen it said sram powerlink was a one shot deal so I just did it the old fashioned way, after riding in the big ring only as the chain was too long.

Nick "gotta make the group ride" Bain

Helps if you have the removal tool to install it. I know, sounds odd, but you just grab one perm link off the side and the missing link end and squeeze. It will close.

user error.

I don't RIDE like slam-dancing - the jumping on the pedals was obviously just to try and get a brief burst of maximal force to lock the KMC link together. (It obviously won't make you go faster as the force only lasts a fraction of a second. This is WELL known in running, where you impact with 2-3x bodyweight with each stride.)

I also did try keeping the link squeezed together while installing - even tried it with separate set of pliers to make sure I was applying enough squeeze force. Still fail.

I also tried this, and at least with the Park tool it does NOT work. It sounds like it should but what ended up happening is that the park tool does not fit between the missing link and the perm link gap - it actually didn't fit because the powerlink-perm link gap was the wrong size for the tool. (I forgot if it was too wide or too small, but in either case, it didn't work at all.) That was one of the first things I tried when it wouldn't install, and I had to look up on the web that the tool was only for removal (as says the instructions as well.)