I am switching to WD-40 for chain lube! Check this out:
#2
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 89
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WD-40 is essentially 2 parts mineral spirits, one part petroleum based oil - Similar to Pro-Link and home-brew lube.
I don't understand why it gets such a bad rap. Maybe it's not expensive enough? Maybe the applicator it too easy to use?
You guys should reconsider.
I don't understand why it gets such a bad rap. Maybe it's not expensive enough? Maybe the applicator it too easy to use?
You guys should reconsider.
#3
Senior Member

Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 702
Likes: 1
From: Grand Prairie, TX
I use WD-40, and I have an aerosol can of the stuff permanently stored in the bed of my pickup truck so everybody can get to it, except in the summer when I think it might explode.....
But I am not HAPPY with WD-40. The trouble is that the lubricant gets extraordinarily sticky as it ages, and it picks up road grime and cakes up next to the chain track. So the chainrings load up, the bottoms of the cogs load up, and the RD jockey pulley cage loads up, and you have to scrape this stuff off. You can't wipe it off.
When I think ahead, I try to use White Lightning. You have to use it more frequently, but there are fewer gross bike cleaning projects.
Sadly, I mostly use WD-40.
But I am not HAPPY with WD-40. The trouble is that the lubricant gets extraordinarily sticky as it ages, and it picks up road grime and cakes up next to the chain track. So the chainrings load up, the bottoms of the cogs load up, and the RD jockey pulley cage loads up, and you have to scrape this stuff off. You can't wipe it off.
When I think ahead, I try to use White Lightning. You have to use it more frequently, but there are fewer gross bike cleaning projects.
Sadly, I mostly use WD-40.
#4
Aluminium Crusader :-)

Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,050
Likes: 11
From: Melbourne, Australia
I use it all the time! There, I said it.
I use it because it's HEAPS cheaper than the fancy stuff at bike shops, it seems to attract much less crud than oil, and, best of all, I can buy it from any supermarket at 2am!
When it comes down to it, the chain and cassette are only temporary, relatively inexpensive items, so it ain't crucial if they aren't perfectly maintained.
I still manage to get many thousands of kms out of my chains and cassettes
I use it because it's HEAPS cheaper than the fancy stuff at bike shops, it seems to attract much less crud than oil, and, best of all, I can buy it from any supermarket at 2am!
When it comes down to it, the chain and cassette are only temporary, relatively inexpensive items, so it ain't crucial if they aren't perfectly maintained.
I still manage to get many thousands of kms out of my chains and cassettes
#5
Lone Fixie
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 209
Likes: 0
From: Providence, RI
Bikes: Fixie/SS: Specialized "Langster", Hobo SS: Schwinn World Sport
I got 2 bottles of white lightning for the holidays (this year was sort of a bike "theme") and I have that on my bike, I like how it works, though if I need more lube and can't afford more white lightning, I don't have any problems using WD-40
Like they always say:
"With Enough Duct-Tape, WD-40, and Paperclips, you can fix/build/repair just about anything."
Like they always say:
"With Enough Duct-Tape, WD-40, and Paperclips, you can fix/build/repair just about anything."
#6
crackhead

Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 170
Likes: 0
I don't use it on my bike as I've got several bottles of prolink already, but I used it almost exclusively on my ATV (Honda 400EX) for several years. I never noticed any extra wear or other problems, but then again I applied it after every ride not every week or so like I apply prolink to the bikes.
#7
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,250
Likes: 8
Over the years, bicycling magazines in the U.S. and the UK have tested chain lubes. The tests include friction reduction, keeping the chain and cassette clean, resisting "wash off" in the rain, and lifespan.
Often the lubes that do the best in rainy, wet conditions don't do as well in dry conditions. And, the best lubes for dry conditions often wash off in the rain. But, what the comparisons did show was that in BOTH categories, the lubes that did the best were lubes designed JUST for chains, not the general purpose lubes designed for lubing sewing machines and rusty hinges.
I seldom ride in the rain (just go get coffee and wait for the rain to stop). I get very good results with Pedro's Ice Wax, and Finish Line KryTech Wax. I can put them on even an old dirty chain, wipe off the residue, let them "harden" eight hours or so, and get great results.
I don't lube a chain until it is making noise, or hesitates during shifting. I ride everday, and I have not lubed a chain yet this year. The wax type lubes seem very durable for the conditions I ride in.
Often the lubes that do the best in rainy, wet conditions don't do as well in dry conditions. And, the best lubes for dry conditions often wash off in the rain. But, what the comparisons did show was that in BOTH categories, the lubes that did the best were lubes designed JUST for chains, not the general purpose lubes designed for lubing sewing machines and rusty hinges.
I seldom ride in the rain (just go get coffee and wait for the rain to stop). I get very good results with Pedro's Ice Wax, and Finish Line KryTech Wax. I can put them on even an old dirty chain, wipe off the residue, let them "harden" eight hours or so, and get great results.
I don't lube a chain until it is making noise, or hesitates during shifting. I ride everday, and I have not lubed a chain yet this year. The wax type lubes seem very durable for the conditions I ride in.
#8
I use WD-40 to degrease my chain, cogs, etc... Then I use a nice cycling lube to lube everything. I don't think $3.50 for a 4 oz bottle that lasts a long time is too expensive when it is the right tool for the job. That's what they sell it for at Gart Sports usually. I think it is $5 at the lbs tho.
#9
Banned.
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,016
Likes: 1
From: Home alone
Bikes: Trek 4300 X 2. Trek 1000, Trek 6000
ONe thing is for certain. When you spray WD-40 or similar on a bike, it doesn't go up in flames like many would have you believe. I found that it worked great on my frozen derailler the other day. I am going to expirement a bit.
I get pretty sick of spending $7.50 on a small bottle of chain lube. Espescially since i don't run all that expensive of bike drive train components. It is a little stupid to spend $25 trying to preserve the life of a $20 chain that is going to wear out regardless.
I get pretty sick of spending $7.50 on a small bottle of chain lube. Espescially since i don't run all that expensive of bike drive train components. It is a little stupid to spend $25 trying to preserve the life of a $20 chain that is going to wear out regardless.
#10
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,057
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by alanbikehouston
Over the years, bicycling magazines in the U.S. and the UK have tested chain lubes. The tests include friction reduction, keeping the chain and cassette clean, resisting "wash off" in the rain, and lifespan.
Often the lubes that do the best in rainy, wet conditions don't do as well in dry conditions. And, the best lubes for dry conditions often wash off in the rain. But, what the comparisons did show was that in BOTH categories, the lubes that did the best were lubes designed JUST for chains, not the general purpose lubes designed for lubing sewing machines and rusty hinges.
I seldom ride in the rain (just go get coffee and wait for the rain to stop). I get very good results with Pedro's Ice Wax, and Finish Line KryTech Wax. I can put them on even an old dirty chain, wipe off the residue, let them "harden" eight hours or so, and get great results.
I don't lube a chain until it is making noise, or hesitates during shifting. I ride everday, and I have not lubed a chain yet this year. The wax type lubes seem very durable for the conditions I ride in.
Often the lubes that do the best in rainy, wet conditions don't do as well in dry conditions. And, the best lubes for dry conditions often wash off in the rain. But, what the comparisons did show was that in BOTH categories, the lubes that did the best were lubes designed JUST for chains, not the general purpose lubes designed for lubing sewing machines and rusty hinges.
I seldom ride in the rain (just go get coffee and wait for the rain to stop). I get very good results with Pedro's Ice Wax, and Finish Line KryTech Wax. I can put them on even an old dirty chain, wipe off the residue, let them "harden" eight hours or so, and get great results.
I don't lube a chain until it is making noise, or hesitates during shifting. I ride everday, and I have not lubed a chain yet this year. The wax type lubes seem very durable for the conditions I ride in.
WD-40 is great for cleaning the bike......though I think that engine degreaser may be better. I might try a can soon for the initial clean-up of the chain.....then use WD-40 and toothbrush to rinse.
#11
I used to use this foamy bio safe engine degreaesr, that worked well though it stunk really badly so i started using simple green. I think pedors cog cleaner brush works well though, i know chain lubes well if you think about what your getting are not cheap, 5 bucks for that little bottle, so i get mine on ebay in bulk
#13
Hmm....I'm just now trying Pedro's Ice Wax for the first time. I got it for X-mas. It came with one of those chain cleaner machines they sell on Nashbar for $30.
Prior to that I was using TriFlow, and I liked it well enough. It turns black and attracts dirt, but you don't have to apply it all too often. It was impossible to get all of the TriFlow off of that chain with the Pedro's BioDegreaser. It's persistent...just like a good lube should be.
Prior to that I was using TriFlow, and I liked it well enough. It turns black and attracts dirt, but you don't have to apply it all too often. It was impossible to get all of the TriFlow off of that chain with the Pedro's BioDegreaser. It's persistent...just like a good lube should be.
#14
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
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Bikes: 2 many
If you do a careful comparison you will notice that the wd-40 will cause your chain to squeak faster than most chain lubes. It will also wash out the grease in your freewheel/hub and cables rear derailleur etc. if you get too much in there. It is good for many, many things. But a chain lube or oil is better for your chain.
And yes you can wear out the chain and just get a new one, that works. But if you get too much WD-40 around the free hub/wheel and axle bearings you can easily ruin something more expensive than a chain. Be careful.
And yes you can wear out the chain and just get a new one, that works. But if you get too much WD-40 around the free hub/wheel and axle bearings you can easily ruin something more expensive than a chain. Be careful.
#15
Senior Member

Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 2,785
Likes: 63
From: Prague, Czech Republic
Bikes: Time ADH01, Merlin Extra Light, Orbea Orca, Ritchey Outback,Tomac Revolver Mountain Bike, Cannondale Crit 3.0 now used for time trials.
WD 40 is a wonder lube for many things, but there are well engineered lubes specific to bike chains that you should use rather than WD 40. I use Pedros and like it pretty much. In the 70s, we would use WD 40 or this stuff that was red, can't remember what it was called.
#17
riding a Pinarello Prince

Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 2,409
Likes: 0
From: Downtown Toronto,Canada
Bikes: Pinarello, Prince and an FP5
I use WD40 to clean my chain, and the derraiuleur, then I wait until it dries maybe overnight then i put Perdos Chain POil, I just run out of the Campagnolo, Chail Oil
__________________
"Racso", the well oiled machine;)
"Racso", the well oiled machine;)
#18
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 18,138
Likes: 324
Bikes: 2 many
I prefer Finish line Krytech. It goes longer for me than anything else in dry conditions. In the wet I prefer The Cross Country finish line. I must have tries 30 different things.
Over about ten years.
Over about ten years.
#19
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 603
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From: Walla Walla
Bikes: Torelli Titanio with full Chorus and Eurus wheels
https://www.cambriabike.com/
Do a search for "t-9" or "boeshield" There, 12 oz for 7 bucks. It's much better than wd-40, goes on just as easily (aerosol) and it's nice and cheap compared to other chain lubes.
Do a search for "t-9" or "boeshield" There, 12 oz for 7 bucks. It's much better than wd-40, goes on just as easily (aerosol) and it's nice and cheap compared to other chain lubes.
#20
WD40 works fine, but you need to use it wisely. I have previously used it when riding in extremely cold conditions, e.g., below freezing... and that doesn't happen very often anymore. It is ideally suited for super cold temps vs. the more viscous lubes made for bicycle chains.
As for how to use it, it needs to be applied quite often (daily, if you will) whereas most of the newer lubricants last much longer between reapplications. It works best when it is applied right after you ride, not before, so that it will have time to soak-in and dry. It's also a good idea to wipe down the chain with a rag before you apply it, and then again before you ride -- this helps to keep the black crud from building up on the chain and then transferring to the cogs, chainrings, and derailleur jockey wheels.
My default chain lubes include hot-melt paraffin for the weekend road bikes and Pedro's Ice Wax on the daily rider/mud bike, and the mountain bikes. In all cases, I make a point to give the chains a quick wipe down either before or after I ride to keep the crud to a minimum. Crud on the outer plates and rollers simply begats more crud and serves no other useful purpose.
As for how to use it, it needs to be applied quite often (daily, if you will) whereas most of the newer lubricants last much longer between reapplications. It works best when it is applied right after you ride, not before, so that it will have time to soak-in and dry. It's also a good idea to wipe down the chain with a rag before you apply it, and then again before you ride -- this helps to keep the black crud from building up on the chain and then transferring to the cogs, chainrings, and derailleur jockey wheels.
My default chain lubes include hot-melt paraffin for the weekend road bikes and Pedro's Ice Wax on the daily rider/mud bike, and the mountain bikes. In all cases, I make a point to give the chains a quick wipe down either before or after I ride to keep the crud to a minimum. Crud on the outer plates and rollers simply begats more crud and serves no other useful purpose.
Last edited by livngood; 01-16-05 at 08:21 PM.
#21
Lets Ride
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,102
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From: Biking Country, USA
Bikes: Trek 1200, Lemond Sarthe, Gary Fisher Tass
WD 40. A Water Displacement formula that was successful on the 40th attempt. Good for unsticking things, cleaning things but not good for a high demand lubricant. My bike is not expensive but worth more than WD 40 as a lube, considering lubing your bike is the most important maintenance function.
But if you like it - Go for it!
But if you like it - Go for it!
#23
Originally Posted by 2manybikes
I prefer Finish line Krytech. It goes longer for me than anything else in dry conditions. In the wet I prefer The Cross Country finish line. I must have tries 30 different things.
Over about ten years.
Over about ten years.
it leaves residue everywhere. the bottle clogs up. and it really stinks.
#24
Senior Member

Joined: Jun 2003
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Originally Posted by baxtefer
Krytech is the worst.
it leaves residue everywhere. the bottle clogs up. and it really stinks.
it leaves residue everywhere. the bottle clogs up. and it really stinks.
I've only been doing this for a few years. The bottle does clog up, I open the hole wider than normal with a wire. Then if it clogs..........I unclog it!!
I stop and shake the bottle as I go while lubing the chain. I actually follow the instructions.
I use it in the same room I normally sleep in. I can smell it a little but it does not bother me. I don't have a very good sense of smell I guess.




