Speedplay question
10-06-12, 07:42 AM
#26
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10-07-12, 08:28 AM
#27
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When I first tried Speedplay Stainless pedals and cleats, I also had a very hard time clipping in. I think it was a combination of my being unfamiliar with clipping into the Speedplay cleats and of my installing the cleats too tightly (even though I used a digital torque wrench).
After about 10 rides with 2 falls due to my poor timing and inability to unclip, I was more relaxed and the clip in and unclipping became easier - though not straightforward.
After about 2000 miles, I decided it was time to re-lube the pedals and completely disassemble the cleats - this was an eye-opener. The re-lubing of the pedals was straightforward but disassembling and cleaning the cleats got rid of so much crap, dirt, sand, and gunk. Also, I noticed that groove had started to firm where the cleat spring rubs against the metal plate of the cleat. Anyway, I figured that it was still okay so I completely filled all the cleat cavities with Parktool PPL-1 lube. Then, I carefully reassembled the cleat back on my DMT Prisma Speedplay sole shoes and tightened the screws until only the first click and to much less torque (1 nM) than the recommended values.
Now, clipping in and unclipping is almost too easy. I clip my left side while I am standing lever the bike and then pedal forward with my left side clipped in and with my right foot just on the right pedal. Then, my right shoe would click in automatically as I am increasing my cadence. I would like to say this is all second nature, but it isn't yet. I am sure that by the time I can ride exclusively in the drops with my back perfectly straight and I can ride centuries in 5 hrs flat every weekend ....
Mark
After about 10 rides with 2 falls due to my poor timing and inability to unclip, I was more relaxed and the clip in and unclipping became easier - though not straightforward.
After about 2000 miles, I decided it was time to re-lube the pedals and completely disassemble the cleats - this was an eye-opener. The re-lubing of the pedals was straightforward but disassembling and cleaning the cleats got rid of so much crap, dirt, sand, and gunk. Also, I noticed that groove had started to firm where the cleat spring rubs against the metal plate of the cleat. Anyway, I figured that it was still okay so I completely filled all the cleat cavities with Parktool PPL-1 lube. Then, I carefully reassembled the cleat back on my DMT Prisma Speedplay sole shoes and tightened the screws until only the first click and to much less torque (1 nM) than the recommended values.
Now, clipping in and unclipping is almost too easy. I clip my left side while I am standing lever the bike and then pedal forward with my left side clipped in and with my right foot just on the right pedal. Then, my right shoe would click in automatically as I am increasing my cadence. I would like to say this is all second nature, but it isn't yet. I am sure that by the time I can ride exclusively in the drops with my back perfectly straight and I can ride centuries in 5 hrs flat every weekend ....
Mark
With my Zeroes, I've learned trial and error an optimal amount to tighten the cleats, never used a torque wrench. Also I've never disassembled them, though I did take the metal plate off once for cleaning after I stepped in some mud and then couldn't unclip (had to take my feet out of the shoes and leave the shoes hanging on the bike while someone held me up on the bike). I use the drylube recommended by Speedplay, not familiar with Park PPL-1.
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10-07-12, 05:48 PM
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I would not call it a lot of problems just a part of the trial and error process, as you had put it.
As for cleaning, I believe the Speedplay instruction sheet recommends relubing the pedal every 2000 miles or 3 months and replacing the cleat after 5000 miles. The instruction sheet also mentions using dry lube after every second or third ride or so. I just wanted to recommend the cleat cleaning step, that's all.
Mark
10-31-12, 03:11 PM
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I'm reviving this thread for an update.
I installed my new Speedplay Light Action pedals yesterday and I'm pleased with them. Definitely easier to clip in and out than my Zeroes, so my goal of reducing the risk of injury while I'm still healing from surgery has been realized. In comparison to the Zeroes where I had limited the float, there's much more float with the Light Action so I get that "ice skating" feel, but that's OK, I've been riding Speedplay for a long time and I'm fine with that.
While originally I was looking for a temporary replacement for my Zeroes, I ended up buying the more expensive stainless pedals because I may end up keeping these long term and wanted the better appearance and maintenance of the stainless. I ended up buying them from Competitive Cyclist since their price was the same as Performance Bike and the shipping was 2 days vs. 2-3 weeks from Performance. And Competitive Cyclist apparently allows returns at any time, no limit. Good peace of mind, though these look like they're keepers.
I installed my new Speedplay Light Action pedals yesterday and I'm pleased with them. Definitely easier to clip in and out than my Zeroes, so my goal of reducing the risk of injury while I'm still healing from surgery has been realized. In comparison to the Zeroes where I had limited the float, there's much more float with the Light Action so I get that "ice skating" feel, but that's OK, I've been riding Speedplay for a long time and I'm fine with that.
While originally I was looking for a temporary replacement for my Zeroes, I ended up buying the more expensive stainless pedals because I may end up keeping these long term and wanted the better appearance and maintenance of the stainless. I ended up buying them from Competitive Cyclist since their price was the same as Performance Bike and the shipping was 2 days vs. 2-3 weeks from Performance. And Competitive Cyclist apparently allows returns at any time, no limit. Good peace of mind, though these look like they're keepers.
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11-01-12, 07:41 AM
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3 to 4 clicks is standard. any more than 4 and you risk stripping the screw head and you won't be able to unclip. less than 3 and you risk your cleat coming apart or excess wear due to the parts moving around in addition to coming unclipped at inopportune times. sounds like you know this already, but i want this to show for anyone searching this thread in the future.
