Since I have nothing better to do. I am thinking of giving speedplays a try this winter.

I ride a triple on one bike and a double on the other with a q factor difference of 3-5 mm between the two.

I am thinking of getting the stainless zero or light action on the triple and the cromoly light action on the double to even out the q factor since the cromoly light action shows a 55mm spindle length and the stainless light action shows 53mm.

Have the following questions:

1) Does the light action cleat work with a zero pedal? Or a zero cleat work with a light action pedal?
2) Other than the adjustable float (which I don't need), is there a benefit to going with zero. I am a touring style rider and all my shoes are 3 hole Look pattern and no desire to switch to MTB.

Thanks

1 Cleats aren't compatible with other models according to the website,
they all look different. I don't know if it's actually possible.

2 I'm using X/2 right now, got a deal and upgraded from X/5. I wish I
got the Zero's to play with the float adjustment. Sometime when I'm
off the saddle, my heel strikes the chain stay.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-rQN...6zPoymgKaIoDLA

The Zero pedals/cleats are not compatible with the Light Action pedals/cleats. If you want to use the same shoes on multiple bikes, you need to have the same type of pedal (either Zero or Light Action) on each.

I think that the Light Action pedals might be marketed more towards touring or lighter use. I ride Zeroes and like them very much, but I have never tried (or thought to try) the Light Action pedals.

I remember reading somewhere that the Stainless Steel and Titanium pedals are U.S. made, while the Cro-Moly ones come from Taiwan. Also, you won't have to worry about rust on the Stainless or Titanium versions.

I think the Light Action are marked more for touring and beginners, due to it's ease on knees and its light action to get out. The Zeros allow fine float adjustments. They'll even allow you to limit float in either direction independently, for example: you could have -6* to +4* float, or you could limit the negative and maintain all 15* positive, etc.

I just placed an order on Zero Chrome-Moly pedals with the initions of swapping the spindle out for a titanium version. From my understanding, all pedal bodies are the same. If all Chrome-Moly pedals are imported and SS and Ti are made in the USA, I might have spent the extra cash on the Stainless Steel model...

I have located a really good deal on Speedplays right now, plus an extra 10% off. Shoot me a PM if you would like the link. I paid <$100 for my Chrome Moly Zero pedals. After Ti spindle swap, I'll be below the weight of the stock Ti model and only spent ~$160 (including shipping).

The LA pedals work fine and you could probably race on them but I would get the zeros. I was on the LA for six years before moving to zeros.

It works, LA just have no float adjustment and springs are not that tight.

contrary to what Speedplay says LA pedals work fine with Zero cleats. I've put 2000+ miles on this combo so far.

I've read a lot of posts where people said the Zero cleats work fine with the LA pedals. I'm three rides in on my LA's and so far I like them better than my SPD-SL's.

It looks like it may be worth a try. On my triple crank bike, I will need to buy the stainless spindle zero or LA pedals. On the double crank bike, I will need to get the cro-moly version to get the longer axle or need to have someone build me a set with a longer axle.

Hmm, sounds expensive.

Not sure what labor costs, but if you want a set of titanium spindles for your Speedplays to widen, or shrink, the Q factor, there is a great set available for $57 + shipping (I think that's about $6 or $7).

My Speedplay pedals haven't shipped from Ribble just yet... but my other Speedplay stuff should be arriving this week. I'll probably place an order on the spindles within the week as well. I don't get to ride often, so I'll just be tinkering with them on the trainer when I'm not in class.

Btw these work great

https://www.amazon.com/Kovers-Speedpl.../dp/B00CXYMAEK

protects the cleats, makes walking easier and you can ride while they on your cleats unlike covers for other pedal types.


i am surprised that its on amazon now. I bought mine last year in Steve Hogg's site. Still haven't worn out my first set of cleats and covers.

Used my Zero cleats with my GF's Light Action pedal...clipped in just fine.

The cleats look identical...with the exception of the missing grub screws for float adjustment.

i have zeros and love them. after having all of the adjustability there, i don't know why i would want less. a bit of a break-in period but once they are broken in they're great!

stainless steel zeros can be ordered with custom spindle lengths. you could get the 'standard' pair in 53 and a custom one in 56 to even out. no more mismatching cleats or anything.

from the speedplay page

SPEEDPLAY ZERO STOCK SPINDLE LENGTHS

• Chrome-Moly - 53mm
• Stainless - 53mm
• Titanium - 50mm

Need Custom Length Spindles?
Zero Stainless pedals are available by special order from Speedplay dealers in the following spindle lengths:
50mm
56mm
59mm
65mm

edit: same custom length spindles can also be ordered for the stainless light action. so you can go either both zero, or both LA, but get the spindle lengths you need for each bike.

If you are a "touring style rider" than speedplays have to be the worst cleats for walking in... those keep on covers are great though.

What's this about "the springs are not that tight" on Light actions? I have two sets of LA and an old set of X/2 (talk about float! Woo hoo!). Never tried the zeroes and wouldn't limit the float even if I could. My knees say no.

I have used the chro-mo Zeros for over a year and have no problems. I'm not competing, so the weight gain from the chro-mo spindles are negligible enough not to justify the additional cost. The black paint does chip off kind of easily though...so they look a little less premium after several months of wear.

Let me rephrase that. I am a touring speed rider and ride with road shoes. I neither have the time nor have the desire to ride hundreds of miles in a day.

as long as touring involves not a lot of walking... I love mine. Just get the keeponkovers and even walking is better. (Better traction when you put your foot down at a light too)

https://www.keeponkovers.com/Product.html

Eventually a rider steps on loose gravel or sandy asphalt. Does that product do anything to help with the speedplay jamming up?

Yes on this. It is also my experience and I have twice that many miles on one of my bikes with this configuration

Specialized makes a extender for spindles.

Answers:
1) yes.
2) no.

I think it does... the only jam I've had to deal with in the last couple years was when I stopped on a grass strip to deal with a flat, and I apparently stepped on some mushy sort of cranberry looking thing. I ended up completely disassembling the cleat to clean it and lube it.

Disassembly was easy too because the screw heads weren't worn down to nothing.

I think speedplay really missed the boat by not designing something like this into their cleats... the metal cover plate is slippery to walk in and wears out to the point that removing it is challenging. I scratch my head about paying $25 for a cover to protect a $40 cleat but the walking benefits alone make it worth while.

Just two weeks ago I had a crash because I wasn't aware some dirt got into the cleats, when I wanted to unclip I couldn't. I think I am going to check this out.

Speedplay may be a wonderful product, but the engineers (if there are any) are resting on their laurels. I wonder about their corporate culture. After all the complaints about those tiny little screws, one would be able to figure out several ways to make the product even better.

The guy who did the Keep On Kovers, that's just one guy with a Nevada corporation? With a failed patent application?