Trainer Tires ???
 

I just got a used Kurt Kinetic and even if I crank down the resistance unit to the max (5 turns) and lower my tire pressure I can still make it slip. Running a 23mm Conti GP4000S tire. I am certainly no Chris Hoy ... so I am wondering if a dedicated trainer tire on an extra wheel would help or is it just a waste of money.

thanks.

A little slippage is normal.

Ride more, worry less.

I would only get a dedicated trainer tire and/or wheel if you are doing a TON of time on the trainer and ZERO road time for several months.

Indeed! Just trying to get the most out of my trainer. I've been on rollers up to this point.

My KK came with a Vittoria trainer tire. I get about the same amount of slipping between it and a GP4000s. Both are better than the scrub Krylions that I've tried using.

While I can make it slip if I want it to, I don't actually think it affects my work outs too much because I don't tend to do a lot of sharp jumps indoors. But it is annoying and I don't remember it being a problem with my old Cycleops Fluid.

I have a Continental trainer tire. Slips, sure. But I have it 'cause the trainer chews through normal tires.

Are you trying to do 5 second intervals or something? I just crank down my trainer on an old tire and it seems to work fine

Something's not right with this picture. I use Continental GPS 4000S on a KK (as well as other tires) I've never had a problem with slipping, even doing shorter intervals at 500 watts+.

If it's setup correctly, you shouldn't be getting slipping, certainly not to the point that the slipping would be a problem.

I'd check how you've got the bike in the trainer. Also what air pressure in the tire?

That's what I've noticed too. I used an old, cheap wheel and mounted the trainer tire. Makes for fairly simple swaps.

I've run pressures at 100 and 110 (my usual road pressure). 23mm GP4KS on a Hed C2 rim. I've cranked down to as much as 4 full turns and I can make it slip from a stop or from a spin if I shift and stand. It doesn't slip during steady state work just at the first kick of any sprint. Maybe this is normal? The responses above seem to indicate a specialized trainer tire isn't worth it. I can buy a cheap tire and put on an extra rear wheel I have.

^ 1) from a stop there's no reason to put out the sort of torque to make it spin, just get things turning in an easy gear while you warm up.

2) jumping out of the saddle, you can make it slip a bit initially, but I've never found it to slip emough to matter. Also, I just don't find the trainer conducive to sprint intervals, so I don't so them on the trainer.

I agree. It doesn't seem worth the expense to get a single purpose tire. Do you have any worn down but not completely clapped out tires? I'd just use one of those.

Yeah, I've got a few old GP4Ks hanging around. I'll just use one of those on an extra wheel I have. Thanks all for the suggestions!

1) That's what I've been doing
2) My high intensity intervals start around the worst part of winter here. Believe me I'd rather work on the road ;-)

Thanks for the tips!

My old tyres which I no longer want to take chances with on the road all get to live out their glory days on the trainer.

Trainers are NOT good for training max-stomp force type instant accelerations, or high-wattage/low cadence combinations. What you're describing is normal for all trainers - you simply can't lock down that rear wheel enough to prevent slippage with a roller drum when the acceleration is extreme.

Trainers are simply not great at emulating the 22% incline sensation of low 50s cadence yet 350-400 watts of effort. To get 350+ watts or more from KK or fluid trainers, you have to both max gear AND keep cadence high. With high enough cadence, you can get 800+ watts of resistance.

Fortunately, there's probably no value about specifically training with specifically uberlow cadence. You can get all the fitness benefits as well increase your speed on those 22% inclines simply by doing intervals on the trainer at speed, even if the cadence ends up being higher than it would be on taht 22% climb.

Don't decrease the tire pressure. Increase it to make it stop slipping. It's a smooth surface; surface area of the contact patch doesn't change the friction against the roller. Tire pressure puts a limit on the pressure on the tire patch; if you want more friction on the tire patch, you want more force against the tire patch, in which case you want more air pressure in the tire.

I prefer a dedicated trainer tire for two primary reasons:

1. I hate to swap the tires from regular road use to trainer use - so I use a dedicated trainer wheel/tire combo
2. Trainer tire is way better (for the trainer) that any regular tire: less heat buildup, no tread separation, less noise, super sticky to the drum, lasts way longer than regular tire

Convenience, performance, durability - worth $35 IMHO

Second wheel is a given. I got that covered. What brands of trainer tire have you tried and liked, and why?

This is what I do as well. Got the same ratio cassette but just a cheap version, tossed it onto a take off rear wheel I got from my wife's Ruby (upgraded her wheels for her) and a trainer tire. Works great and it's just a rear wheel swap...

I use a Tacx trainer tire on mine and, no problems yet--2 years use.

I just use old tires I have laying around. I've never worn out a used tire on the trainer and can't imagine riding enough indoors to worry about buying specialized tires. Since Oct I've done more trainer rides than any other season and I'm still only up to 20 hrs. Usually 1 to 1 1/2 hrs at a time is about all I can handle.

I use 3 turns and 110(ish)psi. I usually just do tempo intervals from 260-280W so I don't encounter much slippage.

Same here. Vittoria Zaffiro's seem to last forever on my trainer... My rear wheels that I no longer trust also go on the trainer as well.

I've had the same crappy wire bead Hutchinson that I've used for 2 seasons prior. It shows almost no signs of wear after initially depositing some rubber on the mag roller. It'll last through this winter without question. Slippage only happens with abrupt starts. I'll just use another old tire when that one gives up the ghost (it's a bit dry-rotted, but if it lets go on the trainer, I don't care).

Like others, I do not use my good tires on the trainer. I save my worn tires. When its indoor trainer season, I mount them back on for use on the trainer. Otherwise, I would just buy the cheapest tire I can get. Typically no more than $10 and is found in the LBS' bargain bin.

up until this year I've always used an old tire for a trainer tire with no problems whatsoever. This year I got a dedicated conti trainer tire at my lbs just cuz it was on sale. Not much difference that I can tell.

My old conti gp3000 has turned shiny on the trainer bike as it's picked up some aluminum from the drum. Become indestructible.

Using expensive racing tire for trainer is much worse waste of money.
Get something cheap or get trainer tire - those are much more silent, if that is important to you (to me it is, so buying it is worth it).

Some slippage is normal, and is not really a problem.

I used Schwalbe Insider Trainer and now am testing Conti Ultra Sport HomeTrainer - both are equally great. I like Schwalbe a little better due to the color and price (a little cheaper); should have it in stock in few months (harder to get).

I have a KK too, but it's fluid and does not have a resistance unit, just the screw that drives the roller up against the rear wheel. I run old nearly bald road tires at about 60 psi. and tighten it up to about a 1 inch wide flat spot on tire. I grab the wheel and give it a few good yanks back and forth to make sure it just squeaks a little and isnt slippin. once warmed up no slippage with multiple jumps and KK computer pegged at 999 watts.

same, perhaps that's the trick.