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Originally Posted by bigfred
(Post 15191801)
Bars are next. But, not as interested in public input on them. Hand position/fit are far more important. I tried anatomical bars many years ago and didn't like them. But, didn't try more than a couple shapes before going back to classic drops. It's time to try anatomical again. The flex is what pushed me over the edge.
Those with sharp angles to the drops definately don't work for me. But, a progressive curve may. I've got a pair of 3T Ergonova's in the garage ready to be mounted up in the new stem once that's decided on. There are also a few other pairs hanging in various mate's garages for me to trial, if I so desire. With regard to bars, I'm imaging it will be a process of finding the favorite shape, then deciding which model from that manufacturer is stiffest. |
Originally Posted by Brian Ratliff
(Post 15193620)
Before you buy a stem, decide your bar. If you go with a "compact" bar, like the ergonova's, you'll need a longer stem to get the same hand position in the drops as you get with a more classic bend bar. Bar type goes a long way toward determining stem length and angle.
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards. |
Ritchey c260 seems like the best modern Alu stem I've tried, but it's pretty ugly. But if you're going to use carbon bars, it's much easier on the clamp area. Big improvement on the older WCS stems in terms of stiffness.
I run a 135mm Syntace F119 and I find it to be the best mix of weight and strength. Only the bar hooks bend with it when I'm sprinting. I find all mid-weight Syntace stuff to be really excellent. And it's a 6° stem. |
Originally Posted by rkwaki
(Post 15193684)
+1,000,000
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards. |
Originally Posted by Beaker
(Post 15191769)
Honestly, I'd imagine that the bars are a better place to focus - way more flex possible due to the moment around the stem/steerer.
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seriously guys, how much weight are you putting on your hands/bars???
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Originally Posted by Brian Ratliff
(Post 15193615)
I have Thomsons on most my race bikes. Best stem for the money, IMO; fairly light and very stiff. They come in a large variety of lengths and angles as well, which is important to me.
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Originally Posted by Racer Ex
(Post 15196187)
Quite stiff, but have had failure issues.
I still primarily see X4's on the track though. |
Another option is the ProVibe 7s stem and bar combo. The bars come in a somewhat classic shape with flat transition to the hoods. The stem is pretty ugly, and the bar is the same diameter all the way to the bend to the ramps. When wrapped they are very big. But this bar stem combo is pretty stiff. Was good enough for Thor.....
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Originally Posted by Brian Ratliff
(Post 15193620)
Before you buy a stem, decide your bar. If you go with a "compact" bar, like the ergonova's, you'll need a longer stem to get the same hand position in the drops as you get with a more classic bend bar. Bar type goes a long way toward determining stem length and angle.
Originally Posted by rkwaki
(Post 15193684)
+1,000,000
I use Rotunda pros and when on the drops I am waaaaaaay down there but that is for a sprint only (the whole bike was built around crit racing/sprint). The stem was chosen based on the criteria of the rest of the bike. Like Brian said start with where your hands want to be then build it backwards.
Originally Posted by Brian Ratliff
(Post 15194369)
To expand on this... to get around the chicken/egg problem, buy cheap stems for fit; once you know how you want the cockpit of the bike set up, splurge on a more expensive stem that is light/stiff as you require. You should be able to find stems in the $20-30 dollar range in most sizes and shapes if you poke around the internet a bit.
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Originally Posted by bonz50
(Post 15194489)
completely agree here. your average stem is so short and so thick even an el cheapo stem that is 130-140ish long isn't gonna flex much before breaking/bending either the bars or the steer tube. pretty much any $80-$120 alloy stem is gonna be great
Originally Posted by rangerdavid
(Post 15194802)
seriously guys, how much weight are you putting on your hands/bars???
You're correct though, in that cheap/heavy stems are oftern times stiffer than their weight weenie cousins. Hence some of the previous statements and suggestions earlier in this thread. And, again, it's not about supporting weight on the palms of our hands. It's about applying torque by pulling down while to increase the speed with which one can complete the downstroke and accellerate the bike. Perhaps I should have put this in 'racing'. Although, when I'm competing for 250 out of 500, you can hardly call what I'm doing 'racing'. |
Don't forget about steerer tube flex
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Originally Posted by Hapsmo911
(Post 15196231)
Another option is the ProVibe 7s stem and bar combo. The bars come in a somewhat classic shape with flat transition to the hoods. The stem is pretty ugly, and the bar is the same diameter all the way to the bend to the ramps. When wrapped they are very big. But this bar stem combo is pretty stiff. Was good enough for Thor.....
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A bit late to the conversation but I've got Ritchey Classic 4-axis stem and it's pretty stiff. Plus it only comes in 6 degree and looks nice to boot.
http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dimg/thm...06ad070012.jpg |
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