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-   -   Standard vs. Compact Gearing (https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycling/875816-standard-vs-compact-gearing.html)

lennyparis 03-04-13 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by laserfj (Post 15343579)
When you feel that you're mashing, are you in your lowest gear?

No I am not in the lowest gear

hamster 03-04-13 02:23 PM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343348)
The middle to south shore of Long Island is flat
The north shore is very hilly
No mountains but many hills that are 200-300 feet for less than one mile
I can go up hills pretty easily
I just feel many times that I am pushing too hard a gear
Not going 90rpm but 10-15 less and grinding it out

OK, it sounds like you have hills which are fairly steep but short. Trying to ride up those hills at reasonable cadence (even 10-15 less than your normal 90) puts you above your functional power, but it's not a game killer because these hills are never long enough. Can you think of any steep section that takes you more than 5 minutes? Can you keep going for 20 minutes at the same effort?

If that's the situation, compact will make hills less of a challenge on long rides and it will make you more capable to do long rides in more mountainous areas.

hamster 03-04-13 02:24 PM


Originally Posted by Sidney Porter (Post 15343629)
What about the Appalachian mountains?

You mean the Appalachian hills?

MetalPedaler 03-04-13 02:32 PM

2 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by hamster (Post 15343325)
It is my general observation that people living east of I-35 typically don't need compacts or triples, because they don't have hills like we do. .

I have one word for you: Pittsburgh!


Originally Posted by hamster (Post 15343325)
I don't know how you manage to average 50 feet/mile of climbing on Long Island.

Adirondack St. Farmingville, Long Island:

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=302434

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=302435

lennyparis 03-04-13 02:33 PM

We do have a few hillls that take 5 minutes or so to climb. On those I can climb pretty well in a 39-21 or 25 (never go into 28)
But same thing is that I feel I am muscling to do it vs. a nice cadence (even if it is 10-15 below cadence on flats)
Can't help feeling that I climb well because I am light and push myself rather than having a nice gear to ride in
Plus on flats I am pushing too hard a gear
If this is indeed true then the big ring is not helpful and compact may be the way to go (keep up higher cadences overall)
Or could just ride in big ring with tighter cassette on flats and small ring with enough flexibility on the high side

laserfj 03-04-13 02:37 PM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343644)
No I am not in the lowest gear

I would start out with just trying lower gears and see if you're able to spin fast enough that way. Maybe start out by focusing on cadence up hills to keep it in the 90 rpm range and see how it feels.

You might find that you can accomplish the cadence you want with your existing equipment.

Homebrew01 03-04-13 02:40 PM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15339839)
Want to have some easier gearing on flats to keep up cadence without losing too much on climbs and spinning too fast


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343348)
I can go up hills pretty easily
I just feel many times that I am pushing too hard a gear
Not going 90rpm but 10-15 less and grinding it out


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343644)
No I am not in the lowest gear


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343725)
We do have a few hillls that take 5 minutes or so to climb. On those I can climb pretty well in a 39-21 or 25 (never go into 28)
But same thing is that I feel I am muscling to do it vs. a nice cadence (even if it is 10-15 below cadence on flats)
Can't help feeling that I climb well because I am light and push myself rather than having a nice gear to ride in
Plus on flats I am pushing too hard a gearIf this is indeed true then the big ring is not helpful and compact may be the way to go (keep up higher cadences overall)
Or could just ride in big ring with tighter cassette on flats and small ring with enough flexibility on the high side

SHIFT INTO A LOWER GEAR ON THE FLATS. Changing to a compact will not make any difference if you don't actuate your shifter.

Andy_K 03-04-13 03:07 PM


Originally Posted by hamster (Post 15343654)
You mean the Appalachian hills?

My wife and I used to have this discussion every time we visited my family in Maryland. She grew up in Oregon and doesn't recognize anything as a mountain that isn't permanently snow-capped. She snickers whenever we drive by the sign saying we've reached the peak of Big Savage Mountain (2982 feet).

Of course, that doesn't mean some of those hills aren't steep.

I don't understand why people are so resistant to triples.

lennyparis 03-04-13 03:14 PM


Originally Posted by Homebrew01 (Post 15343755)
SHIFT INTO A LOWER GEAR ON THE FLATS. Changing to a compact will not make any difference if you don't actuate your shifter.

Do people not use all their gears then?
If for example I am in the large ring and don't use the 11 or 12 why have them?
Or if I ride in small ring with 13, 14, 15 on cassette why have big ring?

svtmike 03-04-13 03:20 PM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343907)
Do people not use all their gears then?
If for example I am in the large ring and don't use the 11 or 12 why have them?
Or if I ride in small ring with 13, 14, 15 on cassette why have big ring?

There will be gears that you use a lot more than others, depending on the terrain you ride. Ride in the gear that allows you to spin the cadence you want.

Some people do eliminate one of the front chainrings or get along with a narrow range of gears if they find they never need the full range.

RollCNY 03-04-13 03:32 PM


Originally Posted by svtmike (Post 15343929)
Some people do eliminate one of the front chainrings or get along with a narrow range of gears if they find they never need the full range.

Having had standard, compact, and 50/36 cranks, I switched to a single 46 tooth ring on one bike, and find very little practical difference between any of them. The 46 tooth stinks on grades over 10%, or rollers where you are keeping your speed over 30 the whole time, but in general, is not significantly different than the doubles.

ThermionicScott 03-04-13 04:51 PM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15343907)
Do people not use all their gears then?
If for example I am in the large ring and don't use the 11 or 12 why have them?
Or if I ride in small ring with 13, 14, 15 on cassette why have big ring?

Indeed. I've gravitated toward a 48/13 top gear on my bikes. Anything higher rarely gets used. :thumb:

lennyparis 03-07-13 09:49 PM


Originally Posted by rm -rf (Post 15343354)
See Mike Sherman's gear calculator. Here's a link with your 11-28 cassette and 53,50,and 34 chainrings. You can compare 50 and 53 here. (Ignore the 'bookmark this page' popup--just click OK, it doesn't actually save it)

The 50 to 53 difference is about 1 mph for any given cog. See the Speed over RPM chart near the middle, with the 53 chainring speeds in blue and 50 chainring in black. You can change any setting, and the charts update on the fly.

The 50 tooth chainring has slightly closer gear speed changes from 15 mph to the low 20s. So that would probably work well for you.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

I run much lower gears, 50/34 chainrings and 13-29 cogs. But I don't really miss the 50-12 or 50-11 combinations. I just coast downhill if the speeds are over 33-35 mph.

I'll even use the lowest 34-29 on a 5% grade, spinning at 90-95 rpm.



I use the cadence reading on my bike computer a lot (more than I expected!), mainly to remind me to stay in the mid-90s if possible. It's easy for me to drift down into the low 80s if I'm not paying attention. If I'm doing a easy cruise, then I'll stay in the low 80s, since I'm hardly pushing the pedals.

I don't do "that" much flat road riding. There's usually at least a small grade. So I'm always shifting gears, even for a short change of grade, just a few pedal revolutions.

Good chainring and cog selection depends on what typical flat road speeds you hit, and what cadence you like. I like small gear speed differences at my cruising speeds, so I can shift into the exact cadence I want.

When you need a replacement cassette, maybe you should try a 12-27 cassette, instead of the 11-28. You would add the 16 cog. At 90 rpm, that cog is 21.9 mph on a 50 chainring, or 23.3 mph on a 53 chainring. You'd only lose some top end speed in the mid to upper 30s. (You can add the 16 cog to the Gear Calculator, showing 11 gears, to see how it might help. Add it to the end of the list, it'll be inserted in the correct spot.)




That's pretty typical for climbing. I'm often in the 70-80 rpm range, and have gone down to 32 rpm (about 1 pedal stroke per second) on very steep hills. Most riders don't have low enough gears to do 90+ rpm on real grades.

Shimano does not have a 12-27

99Klein 03-07-13 09:57 PM

I don't understand the compact popularity. Now I don't live in the mountains, but if I did, I would want the gearing to blast down them and.

jsutkeepspining 03-07-13 10:48 PM

1.shift gears
2. spin faster
3. **********
4. Profit

seriously, your issue seems pretty easy to fix. Also i like my 39 because when im in a flat area i can spin all day going 40kph. its pretty funny to be in the middle of a paceline just going along in your 39/14 (as you know you dont want to go to the 13 or the 12, too much chain rub). (just to let you know that was what most of my training at my winter training camp was. Spinning all day wth a gorup just working in miles).

terrymorse 03-07-13 11:09 PM


Originally Posted by 99Klein (Post 15359008)
I don't understand the compact popularity. Now I don't live in the mountains, but if I did, I would want the gearing to blast down them

How fast do you want to go and still pedal? The biggest gear on my compact is a 50/11 combination, so I spin out at around 45 mph. When I'm going that fast, I'm in a low tuck on a steep grade, and pedaling would be useless to maintain or increase speed.

jsutkeepspining 03-07-13 11:20 PM

the only issue with compacts is that the 34 is far to small for regular riding (i.e. non mountainous riding). you're always stuck between your big ring and your small ring, where as the 39 can be ridden at much higher speeds.

MetalPedaler 03-08-13 09:25 AM

39 seems to be some sort of sweet spot! As a weak, new rider, I thought 39 from a triple was going to be a problem- but on my first ride on the standard, I quickly fell in love with the 39.

svtmike 03-08-13 09:31 AM


Originally Posted by MetalPedaler (Post 15360457)
39 seems to be some sort of sweet spot! As a weak, new rider, I thought 39 from a triple was going to be a problem- but on my first ride on the standard, I quickly fell in love with the 39.

That's probably because the 39 isn't any different from the middle ring of your old triple. The most common middle rings on triples these days are 39 and 42.

RollCNY 03-08-13 09:37 AM


Originally Posted by jsutkeepspining (Post 15359183)
Also i like my 39 because when im in a flat area i can spin all day going 40kph. its pretty funny to be in the middle of a paceline just going along in your 39/14 (as you know you dont want to go to the 13 or the 12, too much chain rub).

Isn't this exactly the same thing as a 53/19? Or a 50/18? If you are in a flat area, just spinning along at 24 mph, why wouldn't you be in the big ring with room to pop up or down, instead of all down on your 39?

That is why I said earlier that crank size only matters, IMO, at the very largest end and very smallest end. Not that I like the 16 tooth jump of a compact, but I have found no practical difference.

MetalPedaler 03-08-13 09:43 AM


Originally Posted by svtmike (Post 15360497)
That's probably because the 39 isn't any different from the middle ring of your old triple. The most common middle rings on triples these days are 39 and 42.

True...the middle ring on my triple is a 40....but yet, on the triple, I'd spend a lot of time in the 30. (Told ya I was weak!). Last few rides on my triple, in preparation for getting the standard, I'd keep it in the 40- and I wasn't able to make it up the worst climb of my ride. I figured I'd be walking the standard up it....but amazingly, come the first time I rode the standard, I mae it up that climb, with ooommph to spare.

MinnMan 03-08-13 09:46 AM


Originally Posted by MetalPedaler (Post 15340984)
I'll second that! That's been my experience, too- only going from a triple to a standard double. Didn't even think I'd be strong enough yet to ride the standard on the hills here.....but I took her out for the first time, and not only made it up all the hills...but had the best performance EVER! Going to the standard has instantly made me a better cyclist.

Yeah. My older bike is a compact and my new one is a standard 53/39. I had some trepidation about how that would work on hills, but it hasn't been a problem. The new bike came with an 11-25, but that was too daunting for me., so I put in a 12-27 and I haven't had a problem (though there aren't many super-steep hills here). And the unexpected benefit is that I use the small ring so much more. On the compact, I'm only in the small ring when climbing, but with the standard, I can spin on the flats in the small ring and the smaller cogs. Works great.

gregf83 03-08-13 10:07 AM


Originally Posted by jsutkeepspining (Post 15359268)
the only issue with compacts is that the 34 is far to small for regular riding (i.e. non mountainous riding). you're always stuck between your big ring and your small ring, where as the 39 can be ridden at much higher speeds.

It depends where you ride. Around here we have mostly flats or hills. If you're on the flats with wind it's easier to stay in the big ring with a compact so less need to switch to the little ring. On the hills I would normally switch to my little ring in any case but there are some hills I'll choose to stand up and stay in the big ring with a compact so again a little less shifting between rings.

With wind it's difficult to stay in the little ring.

MinnMan 03-08-13 10:12 AM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15358972)
Shimano does not have a 12-27

Yes it does.

http://www.biketiresdirect.com/produ...speed-cassette

or

http://www.competitivecyclist.com/pr...5079.22.1.html

nhluhr 03-08-13 10:59 AM


Originally Posted by lennyparis (Post 15358972)
Shimano does not have a 12-27

Funny... my 12-27 Dura Ace cassette says Shimano on it.


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