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Wheel stiffness

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Old 03-15-13 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Uh oh, every now and then I get in a mental quagmire where nothing seems to be as it should. I was trying to figure out why crossed spokes give higher stiffness as Rob says when EVERYONE KNOWS higher bracing angle (θ) means more stiffness. So I did the trig. First, as I understand it bracing angle is the angle of the spoke from the vertical at the flange to the rim. Lets say the length of the spoke is h (for hypotenuse). Suppose you want to shift the rim x mm to the right. Then x = Δh(sin θ). Or rearranging, Δh = x/sin θ. Assuming the only way for the rim to move is for the spoke to get longer, then all the force required must stretch the spoke, and the force F will be the change in length multiplied times the tensile modulus m. So F = mx/sin θ. The sine of the angle increases as the angle increases, so as the bracing angle increases, the force needed to stretch the spoke the required length to realize an x mm lateral shift DECREASES. Whoops. How can that be? First it explains why crossing could stiffen the wheel, but it is contrary to what EVERYONE KNOWS. All I can say is that other things are going on. At very low bracing angle there is probably more spoke bending and rotating in the spoke hole than stretching to accommodate a lateral force. Higher bracing angles may produce a more STABLE wheel but not a stiffer one. Think a 90 deg. angle; the only way lateral movement could occur is by spoke stretching. Now think a 0 deg. angle. There would be many more modes of movement besides spoke stretching. The wheel would be infinitely delicate even though in theory there would be no force large enough in the lateral direction to stretch the spoke along its length. Interesting, huh?
More on the above points: If you assume spoke bending and rotating in the spoke hole (not straight pull spokes) contributes to the flexibility significantly, then crossed spokes would have a stiffness advantage over radial. The crossover points would prevent rotating in the hole and also shorten the length of the bending moment arm. In a high cross pattern like 4X the spoke would be stabilized at 4 different points along its length so the bending moment arm would be extremely short. Also don't forget that this type of stabilization used to be maximized (in the OLD days) by tying and soldering. The spokes were lashed together at the crossover points with very fine wire, and then the wire was filled with solder. The whole thing was rock solid. Of course it was very hard to disassemble if anything broke, but it was very stiff. Considering all these points, I think there is not much doubt that Rob is right, crossed lacing is stiffer than radial.
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Old 03-15-13 | 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by lazerzxr
I build my own wheels as I have a couple of powertaps. at #165 I find the 24/28 spoke combo works a charm and wish more rims were available with these counts. Having said that, you can build a 28 hole deep carbon rim (enve and others) or Hed Jet4 come in 28 along with FF, its sometime more difficult to get a 24 hole alloy front (mavic dont make one for example). In my opinion 90% of normal size blokes could ride a 24/28 and be happy whether they go deep carbon or shallow alloy. I have also found if you break one it is still rideable.

the only time I ever got brake rub was using HOPE steel rod skewers - junk skewers!
I mounted up the wheels in question this morning (I have a race tomorrow and I sometimes use the Friday commute as a shakedown) and instead of using the open cam skewers that came with the wheels, I used an ugly, old pair of Shimano Tiagra/RSX/? closed cam skewers. Guess what? No rub.

I am still intrigued by the idea of rebuilding them as 2x. Making a slight trade of radial stiffness for lateral stiffness makes a lot of sense for race wheels, particularly for crits.
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Old 03-15-13 | 11:01 AM
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Originally Posted by caloso
I mounted up the wheels in question this morning (I have a race tomorrow and I sometimes use the Friday commute as a shakedown) and instead of using the open cam skewers that came with the wheels, I used an ugly, old pair of Shimano Tiagra/RSX/? closed cam skewers. Guess what? No rub.

I am still intrigued by the idea of rebuilding them as 2x. Making a slight trade of radial stiffness for lateral stiffness makes a lot of sense for race wheels, particularly for crits.
Interesting. What kind of hubs & axles are on those wheels?

BTW, I'm a bigger guy that I rides 2X laced front wheels and likes them.

Thanks to those contributing to make this such a good thread!
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Old 03-15-13 | 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Clipped_in
Interesting. What kind of hubs & axles are on those wheels?

BTW, I'm a bigger guy that I rides 2X laced front wheels and likes them.

Thanks to those contributing to make this such a good thread!
Joytech, I believe.
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Old 03-15-13 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by caloso
I used an ugly, old pair of Shimano Tiagra/RSX/? closed cam skewers. Guess what? No rub.
I hadn't considered skewer design/material much before. Apparently, Shimano has had it right all along (at least from a performance standpoint). What's next, cartridge vs loose bearing hubs? Cats and dog living together?
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Old 03-15-13 | 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
I mounted up the wheels in question this morning (I have a race tomorrow and I sometimes use the Friday commute as a shakedown) and instead of using the open cam skewers that came with the wheels, I used an ugly, old pair of Shimano Tiagra/RSX/? closed cam skewers. Guess what? No rub.

I am still intrigued by the idea of rebuilding them as 2x. Making a slight trade of radial stiffness for lateral stiffness makes a lot of sense for race wheels, particularly for crits.
Could you explain what you mean by open and closed cam skewers? Thanks.
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Old 03-15-13 | 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Could you explain what you mean by open and closed cam skewers? Thanks.
Not as well as Sheldon can:

https://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html


[on edit: I should have read this article a long time ago!]
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Old 03-15-13 | 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
Not as well as Sheldon can:

https://sheldonbrown.com/skewers.html


[on edit: I should have read this article a long time ago!]
Got it. A little scary, no?
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Old 03-15-13 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
First, as I understand it bracing angle is the angle of the spoke from the vertical at the flange to the rim. The sine of the angle increases as the angle increases, so as the bracing angle increases, the force needed to stretch the spoke the required length to realize an x mm lateral shift DECREASES.
Read that over a few times and you will see where you have gone wrong. Think in terms of the spoke, when a lateral load is applied it is the spokes job to provide the equal and opposite lateral force to prevent the rim moving. What is the most appropriate orientation for the spoke to do this? Remember that as the spoke stretches more, the force it provides increases. Think of a spoke pulling down almost vertical trying to resist a 100kg lateral load, The lateral deflection will need to be huge before the spoke force builds sufficiently to resist the load

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Old 03-15-13 | 09:47 PM
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Originally Posted by caloso
I mounted up the wheels in question this morning (I have a race tomorrow and I sometimes use the Friday commute as a shakedown) and instead of using the open cam skewers that came with the wheels, I used an ugly, old pair of Shimano Tiagra/RSX/? closed cam skewers. Guess what? No rub.

I am still intrigued by the idea of rebuilding them as 2x. Making a slight trade of radial stiffness for lateral stiffness makes a lot of sense for race wheels, particularly for crits.
Shimano make great skewers. I suspect any difference lacing the way you describe will be marginal at best and most likely a result of hub flange stiffness. If you do it let us know how it goes. Skewers are not talked about enough, they have a huge impact on how wheels apparently perform.
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Old 03-16-13 | 07:12 AM
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Originally Posted by lazerzxr
Read that over a few times and you will see where you have gone wrong. Think in terms of the spoke, when a lateral load is applied it is the spokes job to provide the equal and opposite lateral force to prevent the rim moving. What is the most appropriate orientation for the spoke to do this? Remember that as the spoke stretches more, the force it provides increases. Think of a spoke pulling down almost vertical trying to resist a 100kg lateral load, The lateral deflection will need to be huge before the spoke force builds sufficiently to resist the load
Terribly sorry. You are absolutely right. I didn't rearrange the vector component directions to make the line of the spoke a component of the lateral deflection. I had it the other way around as you would do when figuring lateral tension during spoke tightening. In a way I am relieved. I knew something was wrong. Thanks for a very good catch. But I wonder about the other things I said regarding lacing stiffening the wheel. Despite my other error, can any of that be correct?
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Old 03-16-13 | 04:03 PM
  #62  
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Crappy skewers are the bane of my existence.

"Hey, I have this creaking sound coming from the rear wheel..."
"Change your skewer."
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...."hey that sound went away."
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Old 03-16-13 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
Terribly sorry. You are absolutely right. I didn't rearrange the vector component directions to make the line of the spoke a component of the lateral deflection. I had it the other way around as you would do when figuring lateral tension during spoke tightening. In a way I am relieved. I knew something was wrong. Thanks for a very good catch. But I wonder about the other things I said regarding lacing stiffening the wheel. Despite my other error, can any of that be correct?
As I understand soldering spokes was done to keep a broken spoke from flying all over the place and causing trouble, it keeps it in place. It certainly doesn't add any additional load path, the force in a spoke is there because equal reactions exist at the hub and rim, soldering the spokes afterwards has no effect on that. As the spoke load varies in use, load will always be attracted to the stiffest load path, which will always be axially along the spoke, nothing will get transferred across the solder because the spoke that gets crossed is in the wrong orientation. To demonstrate, think of holding a pencil and a rubber band together and pulling them at the same time - all of the load is resisted by the stiff pencil and the rubber band does nothing. When thinking about spoke bending, remember that all spokes are connected to the rim, so when the rim deflects they all move with it, therefore they cant support each other. There is no moment connection at the end of a spoke, rotation is allowed, since load can only be applied at the ends, it is not possible for a spoke to work in bending in a built up wheel.

Last edited by lazerzxr; 03-16-13 at 05:32 PM.
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Old 03-16-13 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by lazerzxr
As I understand soldering spokes was done to keep a broken spoke from flying all over the place and causing trouble, it keeps it in place. It certainly doesn't add any additional load path, the force in a spoke is there because equal reactions exist at the hub and rim, soldering the spokes afterwards has no effect on that. As the spoke load varies in use, load will always be attracted to the stiffest load path, which will always be axially along the spoke, nothing will get transferred across the solder because the spoke that gets crossed is in the wrong orientation. To demonstrate, think of holding a pencil and a rubber band together and pulling them at the same time - all of the load is resisted by the stiff pencil and the rubber band does nothing. When thinking about spoke bending, remember that all spokes are connected to the rim, so when the rim deflects they all move with it, therefore they cant support each other. There is no moment connection at the end of a spoke, rotation is allowed, since load can only be applied at the ends, it is not possible for a spoke to work in bending in a built up wheel.
That is not what I had heard. HOWEVER, please see the text of an article by Jobst Brandt pasted in below. I appears that you are absolutely correct. That is two strikes for me. I think I will bow out now in favor of those who really know what they are talking about. Thanks for straightening out my mess.

Robert

Subject: Tied and Soldered Wheels
From:Jobst Brandt
Date: December 16, 1996
While writing The Bicycle Wheel, to conclusively determine what effect tying and soldering of spoke crossings in a wheel had, I asked Wheelsmith to lend me an untied pair of standard 36 spoke rear wheels, on Campagnolo low and high flange hubs. I had an inner body of a freewheel machined with flats so that a wheel could be clamped into the vise of a Bridgeport milling machine while the left end of its axle was held in the quill.
With the hub rigidly secured, with its axle vertical, dial gauges were mounted at four equally spaced locations on the machine bed to measure rim deflections as a 35lb weight was sequentially hung on the wheel at these positions. The deflections were recorded for each location and averaged for each wheel before and after tying and soldering spokes.
The wheels were also measured for torsional rigidity in the same fixture, by a wire anchored in the valve hole and wrapped around the rim so that a 35 lb force could be applied tangential to the rim. Dial gauges located at two places 90 degrees apart in the quadrant away from the applied load were used to measure relative rotation between the wheel and hub. Upon repeating the measurements after tying and soldering the spokes, no perceptible change, other than random measurement noise of a few thousandths of an inch, was detected. The spokes were tied and soldered by Wheelsmith who did this as a regular service. The data was collected by an engineer who did not know what I expected to find. I set up the experiment and delivered the wheels.
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Old 03-17-13 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by rpenmanparker
That is not what I had heard. HOWEVER, please see the text of an article by Jobst Brandt pasted in below. I appears that you are absolutely correct. That is two strikes for me. I think I will bow out now in favor of those who really know what they are talking about. Thanks for straightening out my mess.

Robert
No worries, I certainly don't have all the answers when it comes to wheels, I'm just going by sound structural statics which is why I asked the question about 2x vs radial. Your input to the thread is every bit as valid as mine, without it there would be no discussion. I think at this point I have answered my own question really, structural statics indicates that radial should be stiffer, however the big assumption is that the hub flange anchors the spokes equally rigidly for each lacing pattern. This is in fact not the case, radial lace puts significant extra stress on the flange and extra stress = more deflection. So it is entirely possible that a 2 cross wheel could be stiffer than radial heads in despite having a lesser bracing angle. It is however a hub issue and its significance will vary between hubs. For my money, I would re-lace radial heads in assuming the hub is good quality (its free) and then spend the money I saved on spokes on some really good closed cam skewers. Having said that, I'm just a bloke that builds my own wheels - I'm not a pro wheel builder
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Old 03-17-13 | 12:59 AM
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Shimano skewers rock.

Better yet, all their hubs come with them. As much as I love WI hubs, it's something to consider when comparing the price of Shimano DA and WI hubs: the Shimano DA hubs might be a tiny bit pricier, but they come with some VERY nice skewers.
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Old 03-17-13 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Psimet2001
Crappy skewers are the bane of my existence.

"Hey, I have this creaking sound coming from the rear wheel..."
"Change your skewer."
"That makes no sense."
"Do it anyway."

...."hey that sound went away."
Any skewers in particular that you recommend? IME Bontrager ones are junk! They rattle...
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Old 03-17-13 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Ricanfred
Any skewers in particular that you recommend? IME Bontrager ones are junk! They rattle...
Not really. You can usually tell nice ones by feel. In general avoid Ti skewers an the uber lightweight small lever designs.
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