Meaning we kinda alike in other words!
I was teasing- I saw your posts and thought wow, this guy gets it.
It's astonishing how easy it is to improve cassettes.
i've ruined quite a few learning what works and what doesnt-
More than a few, maybe.
Once you learn the purpose of each of the different tooth profiles in the hyperglide/powerglide series, you can take it wherever you want it to go.

FYI, the speculations you made about which areas of the teeth are involved are dead-on, so go for it.

If you want to tighten it up, get down to 48 in front and 30t, maybe 32t in the rear, you could afford a tighter 10sp cassette. I didn't do the math on this, but not a lot of peeps are going to spend a lot of time even in 48/11 over that distance. Just sayin' that jump at the end can be avoided. Of course if you custom build a cassette with even jumps throughout, this is a non-issue.

omg i don't even.. you're too much. and i love it.

Mr. Too Much has shed every drop of blood he has on this topic, and has opted to abstain from making further contribution.

I wish you all good night and good luck.

Yeah right lol

I had my folding bike up set up as a 1x9, 50T ring and 9-26 cassette (on 406 rims). I do need to get a chainkeeper but otherwise very happy with the range (~35-100 gear inches). I've done century events on it.

Th significant woman of my life had a fall after getting into a mental jam with operating two levers. At the time they didnt offer 11-36 cassettes, though, and I knew I couldnt come close to recreating the range of her compact (50-34/12-26 or something like that). Now I can! 48/11-36 yields a range nearly identical to a compact, for goodness sakes.

I just have 3 chainrings and simply change those, instead of changing the cassette- which is what my friends do if they are going on a trip in the mountains or something like that. With 11/36 cassette as the constant,
48 or 50t chainring for near-compact gearing.
53t for standard road gearing
54t for tt gearing.

I prob shld do a quick video on chain-keeperology since consumer offerings are thin. A DIY is not so hard if you know precisely where to control the chain, and this is what makes a 0% chain-drop/rub rate possible. The problem is that particular area is not where most presume it is.

for your entertainment, a geegaw from the old days: the Invisi-flator

Yeah, i'm not even warmed up yet, unfortunately.
Take a dude who has, among other things, modified and destroyed between 75-100 cassettes, trying to figure out how they work and how to improve them...

He's going to have quite a few things to get off his chest. Know what I mean?

And a century on a folding bike ranks as a fine accomplishment in my book.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=310754

I finally found this in the 2007 Texas Time Trials archives.
one of our noble forefathers, a patron saint of 1x's.
1x4 after 321 miles into RAAM qualifier.

I am off camera, sleeping.
I did not wake up.

hmm, dunno bout that, but I'm curious to find out for myself. Give me that ingredients list.

Also, fietsbob mentioned a few pages back SRAM's new XX1 1x11 group (mountain shifters only) -- do you know whether they ended up making the same kinds of engineering mods you had to, to get their system to handle 11-42T ?

Messaged you requested info. I repeat: substitute ingredients at your own peril- this is no Sheldon brown hippy homebrew.

As to the 1x11- i'm almost curious enough to buy a cassette just to see. Looking at photos of it, I am not wild about the spread, though.

For a 1x10 11-36, the shimano XT dynasis is a better option than sram. The large cogs on the sram 1030/50/70 11-36 make an unspeakable amount of noise, for reasons alluded to in the video. Require a LOT of metal removal to get them to operate smoothly. The dynasis 11-36 needs less. And the quality of finish is certainly higher, for same amount of money.

i generally try everything in every imaginable combination to see what works best- what is quietest, shifts best, is most consistent, and requires least amount of personal intervention.

1x10 used to be my dream because I hated the front shifter. Lately, I have come to peace with the FD. Often a single shift in front can be more efficient than 3-4 clicks of the rear. Sometimes with little rollers I may only shift the front - little cog going up, big cog going down and leave the rear alone. But hey, I'm all for options. Nice work.

Aye, its a strained peace, but I get you.
Was precisely those sorts of "cons" that I had to find solutions for.
Most of it comes down not to special handiwork, but knowing exactly which components to buy.

When are you going to make a new video?

See thread: CLEAT POSITION: BLACK OPS
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SCByozSDLFg

Thank you. Can you do a video on saddles?

no because I don't have much to say except that there is no way I'd be able to ride a bike with 16cm of drop for long distances without a Cobb saddle. I lucked out on that one. The Adamos were his balky initial effort. The ones he makes now are masterpieces.

I did just make this one about cog-tooth profiles, why your cassette looks like it does. It's peripheral to the topic of this thread, but might be of interest to some.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGoZFeg7GnA&sns=em

At some point, even if no one is really paying attention, it will be appropriate to make specific recommendations on what components to use if assembling a 1x10.

Generally I try everything, in every imaginable combination, to see what works best. Read: i've spent a lot of money and time on stuff thats not fit for the job- there's no reason you should have to.

I've been on this arrangement now for about a month, have been both on long distance rides and short competitive group rides, and it is a complete joy to use.

that's the point of the thread I guess-
get to a specific description of what works, what yields a beautiful result that is consistent, reasonable to obtain, and repeatable.

We use a 56 with an 11-34 on our tandem. I like it but do miss the 1 tooth jumps either side of the 15t cog. Once you get below the 13 or above the 17 the jumps don't matter because it means the road isn't flat so it won't last. But when hammering on the flat like in a TT the 15-13 is a big gap. The 15-17 isn't as bad but can still be a bit irksome.

That pretty much nails it, that is the single "con" that can't be overcome- when you are in the range of gears you use on longer flats that have minute fluctuations in grade. That is the only place where, if your legs are nicely habituated to 1 tooth jumps, the 2-tooth jumps of a 1x10 may seem off-putting.

the lower gears, where you have 3 and 4 tooth jumps- you don't even notice. Since thats where Im grinding uphill, I'm typically thankful to be able to gear down twice as fast.

Great stuff Mr. Hull. I'm glad I watched a video finally, now there's a voice & face to go along with text.

An after the fact FYI, Jagwire rocket adjusters fit SRAM MTB rear derailleurs just right.

Something you may find useful, the Type2 cage clutch will control the majority of chain bounce/slap. Also, the cage lock is a helpful convenience when changing chainrings, chains, or removing the rear wheel. That's an 11-36 on my road bike too.

I've wondered about doing a 1x9 on my cyclocross bike, but not sure I'd ever do it on an out and out road bike.

I ride my cyclocross bike alot on the road anyway, and it has a double and then a wide range cassette (it's meant to be usable as a touring bike), and I definately find the jumps in gears too big. I've been meaning to try a narrower cassette for ages. Maybe I'm just less adaptable than you are, but I definately notice even a slight change in cadence from changing gears. I don't have any idea what the actual change is, I don't have a meter, but changing gears at the back is definately enough that a smaller range cassette is something I'll definately get when this one wears out.

Why this is just gorgeous.
That would be the shimano dynasis 11-36
dang I wish I'd known about the rocket adjusters.

and this type 2 cage clutch, what is this? G is mesmerized. But not lazy. He looking it up now.

I copy what Dean said though. He's right. The 9 speed 11-36 is a chore. I found them just too kerchunky, and reject. Even 11-34 was almost awkward. That was 2 years ago, though. A ten speed 11-36 would set you back 300 bucks. They less than a third that now. Big difference in performance between 10 spd and 9.

At some point I think it will be very helpful if you could inventory the exact components you use. The finish says you know exactly what you're doing. I'm using a lot of the high-dollar stuff that is pretty far past the point of diminishing returns. These are more reasonable choices that function just as well or better, with maybe a few micrograms difference in weight.

Count me in.

1x10 STATE OF THE UNION ADDRESS
 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxe_piq5nhc&sns=em

All in