"The most sexually explicit bike.."

I think this is still the most sexually explicit bike...

That is so far beyond my own level of accomplishment I don't even want to try.

That thing should be in a museum. It's almost to pretty to ride. With the drilled out ring, 3 spoke wheels, and polished titanium frame, simple componentry, NiteRider tail light and tricked out bars. If it runs silent, I dont know how you improve this thing.

You don't. So you cut it to pieces with a hacksaw, which is what I did. I adored that bicycle. Because riding it gave me the desperately needed experience of

YES

YOU

CAN

I'm embarrassed to say that's what I eventually did with it, and can scarcely explain why. It's some artist thing, I think, it happens in painting a lot- destroy something to force yourself to go one better, even if you have no idea how to do that.

Captains Log: 4/17/2013 2100h
 

Tomorrow to mountains to do 4 steepest climbs of Six Gap Century course on 1x10. Sticking w 54-11/36. Est 7000 ft elevation gain in 60 miles.

Less concerned about about drivetrain than what 36cm handlebars will feel like on fast descents, esp with variable winds and 66's in front.http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=311449

Fabulous thread, thanks for the entertainment. Some good ideas, too. But there's a much easier way. Invest money instead of time, and build yourself a wheel with a Rohloff hub. Suddenly you have a 1x14, with nice even gaps between ratios and a MTB's range. These days one can get Rohloff shifters for drop bars, too...

See efficiency tables.
(You'll have to find them, first; happy hunting!)
internal planetary gears non-contender if you like to go faster.
But is great townie kind of solution though.
internal stuff is neat. Really neat, I think.
Was even considered seriously.
Glad more of it is coming out.
Not really aim of thread though.

according to the Rohloff people their hub is massively more efficient than the 7-speed and 8-speed hubs available, and compares pretty decently with derailleur systems. If you click on the "efficiency measurement" heading at the side of the linked page, there's what looks to me to be a fairly honest appraisal of the difficulties of making a true comparison. But in the higher gears, the loss of efficiency appears to be small, and in the direct drive gear it seems more efficient.

I appreciate this isn't in the spirit of the thread, but I think it's interesting anyway. I may be almost as crazy as you.

1x14 for 2

http://shop.bikegallery.com/images/l...hloff_11_z.jpg

Oh i KNOW u crazy as me.
i thought one thing wld be neat is a compact planetary system that is integrated into the bb. I forget who makes it. Not 2 efficient and kinda heavy but still a lot to speak for it

SB, with combo of planetaries and chain-drive, had a 63 speed bike.
That a gorgeous tandem
sorry for spelling just hit top of Neels Gap, is like 43 minit straight climb

And sorry if i sounded like wet blanket, chasm-
my dream bike wld be a race worthy belt drive internal hub,
i just dont know how to make that happen

Nobody does, if you're talking road racing. It isn't just the inefficiency (which I suspect isn't too terrible - and a rohloff with electronic shifting would be nice) it's the wheel-changing. Disengaging and re-engaging the hub takes a little time, even if one doesn't care about the cost of having n spare rear wheels built around a >$1000 hub. On my touring bike, though, that's another matter.

i didn't think you were being a wet blanket. You're a man with a sense of humour, (as well as a grand obsession.)

If not exaggerated, 97-98% on the highest four gears, that's pretty awesome. I wonder about wear though.

Well, I can't vouch for the veracity of their claims. It's a mighty impressive bit of kit, though. Riding it I think I can detect a certain loss of efficiency in gears seven and below, but honestly can't tell the difference from a derailleur system from 8-14. Except, of course, that the steps between gears are equal on the rohloff.

As for wear, I've only done about 6000 miles on mine so far, so it's barely worn in. But there are lots around that have done many tens of thousands of miles. And the old Sturmey Archer internal hubs, manufactured to vastly lower standards, lasted for ever.

I not be surprised if- if adequately sealed- a good planetary system would last literally long after the rest of the bike was a pile of rust flakes. They are indestructible.

Just returned from 60 mile/7500ft ride-
am starting to put the videos (which are nothing experiments with but a subgenre of performance art)on the IL DUCE thread-

Am primarily visual artist so its a fun thing to learn.
But even though they are highly constructed video pieces, they are also so sincere it is too disturbing to read the reactions to them- so made a separate thread where I read none of the posts- thus 'IL DUCE'.

Here 1x10 mountain climb rept.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTBpaB-_N9E&sns=em

will post videos just in ID from now on.
man im beat

The one I know about is the Hammerschmidt. Pluses are instant shift, even under full power, super tough, and allows the use of a small chainring for log and rock clearance. It's made for all-mountain type mountain bikes.

the end
 

Supermod killed thread and deleted videos.

is too bad...or sad I guess, for whoever has to make decisions like that. I'm lucky I don't have to. Is too much to expect one would be accepted or understood everywhere though.

Fellows I have enjoyed this more than you could know, thank you very, very much This thread has been wonderful relief from the frustration of trying to work the nagging technical problems out. The end result is gorgeous, outstandingly functional and an even greater pleasure to ride than I hoped.

I suppose these will have to stand as the sole 1x10 live ride reports:

1x10 after 7500 ft climbing:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sTBpaB-_N9E&sns=em

1x10 after 170 mile Cross Florida event
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifwpgs4mZrA&sns=em

the general suggestions in the "1x10 drivetrain mods" video do work extremely well:
1x10 Drivetrain Mods
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tTiPoifDGJI&sns=em
Note: for an 11-36 road set-up, use only shimano dynasis and either highest-grade KNC or DA 7900 chain. Substitute others at your own peril. There are other things to sort out, too, obviously, but others have found solutions and I'm sure you will to too. But some general recommendtions may be made in these areas:
1x10: components and chainkeepers
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnY3ZtoLa6c&sns=em

the last two videos, being reposted here in a sinking thread, are hopefully safe from being axed for a little while. Zero as far as valid technical content goes, but by far my favorite. Why? Cycling is not the biggest part of my life, and yet I adore everything about a bicycle, what it does, what it means. This is the closest I can come to expressing that. Retitled them to something hopefully less provocative:

1x10: Black Ops (part 1)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cxe_piq5nhc&sns=em

1x10: Black Ops (part 2)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KW5IcKHhOE&sns=em

EPILOGUE: map to the Holy Grail
Mfrs. have failed to provide you with the application-appropriate lubricant to put on your chain for several decades now; thus you may have been persuaded to believe, among other things, that the service life you're getting is acceptable. The products keep getting more ridiculous, so why not take a crack at it yourself? What if, while shaving, you said to the mirror, "water imperviousness, belt drive-quietness, uncanny durability: IT CAN BE HAD, AND I SHALL HAVE IT, GODDAM IT!"

But you know that men who get the answers are invariably men of tight focus. So you confine your thoughts to these three questions, and no others:

1) What is the application? (Here's where everyone goes wrong, btw.)

2) How do you get the strongest possible lubricant into the parts of the chain that you can't see, and have it STAY THERE, for 4,5,600 miles, under all atmospheric conditions?

3) What lubricant can you prevent from migrating to the parts of the chain that you can see, for the entirety of that duration?

Hint 1:
the ingredients that would fulfill both conditions- you could go out and buy them and be back in your livingroom in 25 minutes flat.

Hint 2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilvHQJNiJvY&sns=em
This last one creeps me out a bit. Even worse, it was the easiest to make.

-Gerry G. Hull Jr.
error285@gmail.com
www.subchroma..com

Haha, duuuude.

Your remarkable specialization in a drivetrain-as-lifestyle-based hatred towards this world is so epic and extraordinary that I can't even hate on you in good conscience.

The demeanor is also aloof, condescending, predatory, and confusing at best, and that's being rather decent of me.

But I wish you well. Takes all kinds. And looks like you can hammer on the bike, so kudos, bro.

Do you really smash 54 x 11 in any real-life situation? Or 54 x 14, even?? Must be a vicious downhiller, dude. Cujones grandes, guey. I never had much luck with the big ring running 1 x XX. I run a 44 x 12-29 as a 1 x 11 currently. But I also have a 42 and a 39 that I swap out depending on my ride. When I went to southern France I took the 39.

I'm a nobody racer, a 34 year old Cat 3, but I ride in a fast group (22-23mph) on hilly rides in Kentucky, and all of the guys I ride with are in 53 x 18 smashing up the hill-ettes and I have the same gearing, just different. And there is no mid-level racer reading this that will break away and stay away from a 44 tooth ring ridden by another equally strong average rider. If you're an average guy you're not just going to get into 53 x 11 and just smash away all day. Once it's a 100-inch gear you don't need more unless you're Sagan or Cancellara. 44 x 11 or 44 x 12 are killer gears you can spin with power and 44 x 29 will climb anything as long as you've got the aerobic base. I run the 42 and 44 ring in Cat 3 races and I'm not Top-10 at this level, but I'm not with the stragglers, either.

I'm not a super-tinkerer like you, I have mine set up as-is (except for filing a bit on the outside of the LITTLE cog) and I run a Campy Chorus 11 crank with a Record 11 rear mech on a BB30 frame. It's quiet in everything except the 12t.

I don't run a chain watch, I never have.

I run a BBG bash guard.

If I could post pics on here I would. Okay, I think I understand now how to...

http://tinypic.com/r/akgz5y/4

Rock out with your 1 x XX, man.

In a symbolic gesture of commitment to the 1x10, I removed my little ring tonight. Gonna work on the chain catcher and removing derailluer tommorrow. I need some advice on dimensions of the catcher.

(Note)
 

Note-Chainkeeper and component vid added into above so all 1x10 oeuvre accessible in one post.

http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=311961http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=311963http://bikeforums.net/attachment.php...hmentid=311964

As promised SSSG



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v7...ps43f08924.jpg

MAN that came out ugly^^

What could be a more perfect bookend to this thread than a few scattered photos of disturbed looking men?

click it its a video