bianchi10

well, thanks for all the advice here. Checked several things that some of you mentioned, but still clicking. My buddy gets back to my LBS on tuesday and he will take care of any charges that I may get since they installed my new crankset. I'm really thinking its the BB at this point.

DPN

+1 for tighten the saddle fasteners. Almost every time I've gotten a case of the "creaks" it would be the saddle. DPN

sosojeffcc

got another shoe to try and rule out the shoe?

bianchi10

DPN...Saddle already been ruled out. Been cleaned greased and tightened with torque key.

Bluechip

If it was me (and it has been), I would be getting close to a complete tear down to a bare frame. The only problem with doing it that way is that while you may fix the problem you may not find out what was causing the noise in the first place. But it's still better than a constant tick, tick, tick.

Nachoman

I had some annoying clicking a while back that was solved by a slight front derailleur adjustment.

Spiduhman

I can't tell where the xxx sounds are coming from, however, one tweak at a time targets, when it Goes Away.

Recurring click, sometimes creak, from rear hub resolved by bearing replacement; the cartridge bearings have their drawbacks - they don't last very long. A slight tightening of the skewer does it, until the bearings are just too far gone.

I think the cassette gouging the freehub makes sounds as well, but that's not it if the Same Sound continues after shifting to the bigger cogs (which are bound together on a carrier). The other recurring click went away when I replaced pedals - the pedals were still great, but the part that holds the cleat was worn down from clicking in and out, ahaha!

So, there's two ideas - imo, rear hub cart bearings are good for less than a year, and the Look style pedals start making noise after a few years.

Third idea, cogs shifting about on the freehub.

dralways

I can't believe an experienced rider like yourself has taken this long to figure this one out. It's the BB for sure, with no doubt. I just went through the same thing with my bike last month.

rpenmanparker 

What is the point of assuming every problem is the same as yours. Most of the suggestions here have been reasonable. BB is a good possibility, but by no means certain.

wphamilton

I thought I'd throw this out because it seems a little unusual. I had some non-rhythmic last week ticking that vanished after cleaning the spokes where they crossed over. Oh, I also greased the bearings while I had it off but I think it was the spokes.

Point

Any chance it's the crankset itself? I had a click every pedal stroke and it turned out to be the press fit between the spider and spindle that had a bit of play in it. Just pull the crank and see if there's any slop in that connection. Glad I caught mine early before a major malfunction of it.

phee

I know you said that you had your wheels serviced, but just thought that I'd throw this out there. I had a pretty loud clicking on harder efforts (which for me is over 100 watts mostly when standing heading up a hill. turned out to be the cassette was just not quite tight enough. Even though I had greased and torqued it correctly there was just enough movement to make a loud click. Took it back off, re-greased and re-torqued and all was well with the world.

jzsoup

Change the BB already!!! The suspense is killing us.....

bianchi10

Lol, I went in today and the main bike mechanic told me to bring it in on tuesday for him to look at it, otherwise if I just drop it off with a work ticket, it will be about a 2 week wait to get it back. Good to know people in the bike industry!

FLvector

Ok, time to place bets. My money is on the BB

garysol1 

I have had a alum stem/carbon bar interface creak. Put a little carbon paste on there and all is good.

bianchi10

Not saying that isn't it, but I dont know if that would cause me to feel it in my crank. Maybe it would. It has gotten worse now to a point that it happens on both left and right crank arm rotation. I'm gonna go with BB.

garysol1 

just throwing it out there....

bianchi10

I appreciate it. reading through this, I cant believe how many little creaks and clicks we have all had about our bikes!

StanSeven

Two things most people don't look as cause - point where spokes cross (already been mentioned) and loose head set.

numberSix

Shift to a hard gear and pedal standing. If the click is worse, and from the BB area, it's the spindle to bearing interface. Most people only lightly grease the spindle. Quiet for a few rides then the noise returns. A more thorough fix is a thin film of loctite on the spindle where the bearings sit. I use loctite blue but I'm sure there's a better formula for non permanent gap fill.

If the noise is around the headset and louder during hard efforts:
thin film of waterproof grease on all the headset parts, headtube bearing seats and spacers. Careful check for squareness of the cone spacer to the stem's bottom. Set the headset tension with the expander, tighten stem. Ride. Loosen stem bolts, retension, retighten stem.

Bluechip

Any word yet as to what the problem is/was? It's really sounding like a BB but it may surprise us.

bianchi10

Just got my bike back. No clicking as far as I can feel/hear. BUT, they told me not to really get on it much and let the lock tight cure. took apart the spider, cleaned and put on lock tight. Cleaned and regreased spindle. Told me to go around the block with it, but not to apply to much strength into it. So far so good. I'll go back out tomorrow and give it a go. I'm REALLY hoping that was the issue. He said one of their racers had the exact same issue with her evo and SL crankset. I'll come back with details tomorrow.