Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Road Cycling
Reload this Page >

Prices: Now vs Later

Search
Notices
Road Cycling “It is by riding a bicycle that you learn the contours of a country best, since you have to sweat up the hills and coast down them. Thus you remember them as they actually are, while in a motor car only a high hill impresses you, and you have no such accurate remembrance of country you have driven through as you gain by riding a bicycle.” -- Ernest Hemingway

Prices: Now vs Later

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 08-02-13 | 06:51 AM
  #1  
PiLigand's Avatar
Thread Starter
Climbing: Ropes or Wheels
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 1
From: Unied States, Maine

Bikes: 2012 Scott Foil 30, Homebrew Windsor Fens Build, 2015 Fuji Touring, 1980 Univega

Prices: Now vs Later

Hey all.

I've got an old steel frame that I may be looking to build up into something worth riding sometime soon. Before any of that happens I would plan to sand and repaint it, spread the back end, and get a whole new set of components. Since this is really just a fun project, I'm just looking to do it cheaply (ie cheap wheels, older/used cassette, rings, crank, BB, and microShift to see how that goes.) Granted it's summer right now in the states, but given how much free time I'd have and how long I'd expect this to take, I don't plan to have it done by the end of this season.

That being said, I'm not blessed with an overabundance of spare cash and before I tackle this, I want to price it out. Right now it looks like I could do it for about $550 (USD) which is kind of acceptable. Though it doesn't account for much going wrong. But since I've only just jumped into this recently, I've never priced parts in the predominant winter months. Do components like that (eg 105 cassettes and chains) tend to be any cheaper in the winter, or is it a mixed bag the whole way through?

Thanks for any input you may have. I'd appreciate it.
Also if I've missed something and this has been asked before, feel free to point me to the thread and that will suffice. Take care, all!
PiLigand is offline  
Reply
Old 08-02-13 | 07:02 AM
  #2  
bikemig's Avatar
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
10 Anniversary
Community Builder
Community Influencer
 
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 21,848
Likes: 5,821
From: Middle Earth (aka IA)

Bikes: A bunch of old bikes and a few new ones

It is fun building a bike up from a frame but it is almost never worth doing so from a straight dollars and cents point of view. Still it sounds that you have the right attitude since you are doing this for fun.

If you really want to save money on parts, you could go pre-indexing. Then you can hunt for parts in a bike co-op and/or find a cheap vintage bike as a donor.

Since you're spreading the frame (presumably to 130), it seems that you want some kind of modern indexing system. Best bet to save money is to find a donor bike. The other possibility is to look for deep sales which do occur from time to time. I'd sign up at some of the usual mail order suspects for their specials. Nashbar will blow things out from time to time or have fairly deep sales. Amazon doesn't do specials but its prices are often very aggressive. Bike island (which is the sister site for bikes direct) sells parts and wheels and its prices are often very, very good. I'm looking for a wheelset and it has excellent prices on those.
bikemig is offline  
Reply
Old 08-02-13 | 07:19 AM
  #3  
Senior Member
Titanium Club Membership
15 Anniversary
 
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 15,410
Likes: 189
From: Tariffville, CT

Bikes: Tsunami road bikes, Dolan DF4 track

Originally Posted by PiLigand
Hey all.

I've got an old steel frame that I may be looking to build up into something worth riding sometime soon. Before any of that happens I would plan to sand and repaint it, spread the back end, and get a whole new set of components. Since this is really just a fun project, I'm just looking to do it cheaply (ie cheap wheels, older/used cassette, rings, crank, BB, and microShift to see how that goes.) Granted it's summer right now in the states, but given how much free time I'd have and how long I'd expect this to take, I don't plan to have it done by the end of this season.

That being said, I'm not blessed with an overabundance of spare cash and before I tackle this, I want to price it out. Right now it looks like I could do it for about $550 (USD) which is kind of acceptable. Though it doesn't account for much going wrong. But since I've only just jumped into this recently, I've never priced parts in the predominant winter months. Do components like that (eg 105 cassettes and chains) tend to be any cheaper in the winter, or is it a mixed bag the whole way through?

Thanks for any input you may have. I'd appreciate it.
Also if I've missed something and this has been asked before, feel free to point me to the thread and that will suffice. Take care, all!
Based on what little you posted I'd caution you to see if the frame is worth fixing up. It's one thing if you have a bike that is somewhat compatible - English BB, short reach brakes, some normal kind of seat post diameter. I'm assuming 1" steerer so you'll probably need to stick with a quill stem, although there are 1" threadless forks and all 1 1/8" stems work with such forks with a spacer that used to be included with every stem purchase (so lots of people have these unused spacers laying around).

Depending on where in ME you live you may be able to visit local shops for various things - said 1" threadless adapter (and maybe even a reasonable fork), quill stems, bars, saddle, post, etc. A lot of shops will have "take-off" parts, stuff they removed in either new or lightly-used condition, stuff that can still work for years and years. Usually it's fit or less/non-wear related, so bars, stem, post, brake calipers, maybe cranks.

Finally a donor bike might make sense. If you have some basic knowledge on bikes you may be able to get a bike to strip down, with a modern drivetrain, wheels, etc. I was seriously contemplating this for my beater mtb - I could get a bike that was too large and use most of the components on my current mtb. I could then sell the frame/fork set up to make some of my money back. I never did this because it's truly a beater bike, but that's a thought. For you it would open up some options - buying a bike that's too big isn't a problem if the wheels, crank length, drivetrain, and you can use some of the other stuff.

Based on friends/family that live in ME (Camden, Alna, Kingston) there are shops out there with pretty good stock of older/take-off parts.

Hope this helps
cdr
carpediemracing is offline  
Reply
Old 08-02-13 | 07:29 AM
  #4  
MDfive21's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 547
Likes: 0
From: Houston 77057
i've had fantastic fortune at retrobike and london fixed gear forum classifieds.. BF also has a good c&v classified section.

https://www.bikeforums.net/forumdispl...-Vintage-Sales

https://www.retrobike.co.uk/forum/viewforum.php?f=22
https://www.lfgss.com/forum6.html

i will echo the above statement that you should start with a frameset that is worth building up, which you can also find on those sites.
MDfive21 is offline  
Reply
Old 08-02-13 | 07:33 AM
  #5  
PiLigand's Avatar
Thread Starter
Climbing: Ropes or Wheels
 
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 384
Likes: 1
From: Unied States, Maine

Bikes: 2012 Scott Foil 30, Homebrew Windsor Fens Build, 2015 Fuji Touring, 1980 Univega

Thanks for your input, bikemig. I don't know why I never checked those earlier, but ehy're already looking better.

Originally Posted by carpediemracing
Based on what little you posted I'd caution you to see if the frame is worth fixing up. It's one thing if you have a bike that is somewhat compatible - English BB, short reach brakes, some normal kind of seat post diameter. I'm assuming 1" steerer so you'll probably need to stick with a quill stem, although there are 1" threadless forks and all 1 1/8" stems work with such forks with a spacer that used to be included with every stem purchase (so lots of people have these unused spacers laying around).
cdr
You're right, I do need to check on the brakes and bottom bracket. Those are the pieces that I'm mostly concerned about. I also don't remember if this particular frame is an integrated derailleur hanger or not, which could cause some problems. The bike in question is about 2.5 hours away at the moment, so I am really hyopthetical at the moment, but those were on the to-do list. Also the fork, headset, stem, and bars are all already on the frame, so I wasn't explicit, but I don't plan to get new ones of those.

I do like the idea of a donor bike - another thing I hadn't thought of - but I think I'm going to avoid it if possible. There were three reasons for this (hypothetical build): To build a bike for the kicks and experience of it, to experiment with the microShift levers and mechs, and to use up the frame that's been sitting in the garage. It kinda bothers me to have it and not use it. So a donor bike would get this off the ground, but leave me with that same problem. It's a little compulsive, but you know...

I actually do have most of what I'd need to do a pre-indexing, but I like the idea of indexing for a few reasons: it makes for a better ride (at least in my opinion), it would be nice to have a steel bike with indexing, and i want to play with the microShift mechanics.

Thanks for your input. It's very helpful!
PiLigand is offline  
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
shlammed
Classic & Vintage
10
03-30-16 11:18 AM
tergal
Clydesdales/Athenas (200+ lb / 91+ kg)
11
04-25-12 01:56 AM
Amesja
Classic & Vintage
59
03-08-12 05:08 PM
jaded_fable
Singlespeed & Fixed Gear
6
08-01-11 09:49 AM
funtimesKD
Bicycle Mechanics
27
05-06-11 04:19 PM

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.