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So uh... tire/valve stem alignment, 1 side only?

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So uh... tire/valve stem alignment, 1 side only?

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Old 08-31-13 | 08:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
When you stop to fix a flat, sometimes in the initial examination you find the hole in the tire, but sometimes you don't or you aren't sure. Then you have to find the leak in the tube and match it up with the sometimes hidden object lodged in the tire that made the leak, and remove it or else you get another flat in a couple miles.

It's a PITA that tire manufacturers decided that having 2 logos was worth more to them than our need to find the hole in the tire. So now unless you're really careful with tire/tube alignment after you take off the flatted tire, you have to say the hole is either here . . . or there. I much preferred the old way of having the logo on one side only. Logo went over the valve stem on the QR side. Then it was much easier to figure it out.
Don't remove the tire when fixing a flat. Pop off one side only with the tire levers and pull out the tube. The tire should never have to leave the rim.
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Old 08-31-13 | 08:29 PM
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This thread has me curious to see how some people fix a flat.
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Old 08-31-13 | 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Don't remove the tire when fixing a flat. Pop off one side only with the tire levers and pull out the tube. The tire should never have to leave the rim.
I haven't used tire levers in 20 years. I don't carry them. I find that I can't see the inside of the tire as well that way, so it's harder to see what came through or find the piece of radial wire, etc. It's at least as quick to pop the whole tire and tube assembly off at once by hand, since the first bead only takes seconds to remount by hand. And then I'm certain I've seen and removed any problems. I'm also backward from some experts, in that I mount the bead at the valve first and the opposite side last, by hand of course. Just my experience and method.
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Old 08-31-13 | 09:11 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeshulEd
This thread has me curious to see how some people fix a flat.
I usually just get on the phone and call my personal sag wagon, then magically it gets fixed...
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Old 09-01-13 | 03:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
I haven't used tire levers in 20 years. I don't carry them. I find that I can't see the inside of the tire as well that way, so it's harder to see what came through or find the piece of radial wire, etc. It's at least as quick to pop the whole tire and tube assembly off at once by hand, since the first bead only takes seconds to remount by hand. And then I'm certain I've seen and removed any problems. I'm also backward from some experts, in that I mount the bead at the valve first and the opposite side last, by hand of course. Just my experience and method.
Yeah, that's pretty much bass ackwards from what I would suggest.

I don't know what tire rim combo you are using but there is no way I could pop off the first bead by hand. That what the levers are for. Then I put them away as I never use levers to install a tire.
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Old 09-01-13 | 04:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
WTF are you talking about?

If you are kidding then...uh..ha, ha? If you are trolling then bite me.

If not, I think you misunderstood.

The alignment of the valve stem and the tire logo isn't to help you find the lalve hole on the rim (although several brands help with this by using different coloured spokes). It is so than once you find the hole IN THE TUBE that caused your flat, you know where to look on the tire for debris that may still be embedded there and that will cause another flat.
Egads. Snarkiness gone bad.

---

You can just as easily find the spot in the tire to check by referencing the position of the valve stem in the wheel, regardless of if you have the label lined up. Lining up the label, while it sounds logical, is unnecessary -- but still used to justify yet another cycling ritual. I'm sure someone will chime in about the tire moving around the rim -- people have a hard time giving up their religions -- I'll just say you can believe what you want.

---

I thought the different colored spoke was slightly heavier to balance the weight of the weld. Have I fallen victim to another one?
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Old 09-01-13 | 07:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Bob Dopolina
Yeah, that's pretty much bass ackwards from what I would suggest.

I don't know what tire rim combo you are using but there is no way I could pop off the first bead by hand. That what the levers are for. Then I put them away as I never use levers to install a tire.
Not the first bead. Around here, we pop the whole thing off at once, both beads with the tube inside. It's not hard. I've done it with pretty much any rim and tire combo on which I've happened to change a tube. Exception for an early Cane Creek wheel that was almost impossible with levers.

It's just ordinary tribal behavior. We carry on the traditions of our elders.
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Old 09-01-13 | 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy
Not the first bead. Around here, we pop the whole thing off at once, both beads with the tube inside. It's not hard. I've done it with pretty much any rim and tire combo on which I've happened to change a tube. Exception for an early Cane Creek wheel that was almost impossible with levers.

It's just ordinary tribal behavior. We carry on the traditions of our elders.
Perhaps that tradition was based on the looser wire bead tire of yore. (Yes, I said "yore". So sue me!) I don't mean to suggest that you can't do it with a Kevlar folding bead, but I can't. At least not until a tire is very well worn in and loosened up from the stresses of being stretched on the rim and ridden many miles. I think the majority of us are talking about what we can do with our particular hand strength. There are outliers in every endeavor, but I am not one with regard to this.

In case anyone is surprised I say that wire bead tires are actually looser, that is in fact the case. Since they don't stretch as much over their lifetime as Kevlar bead tires do, they don't have to start out as tight. Lots of things are possible with wire bead tires that are not with folding tires.
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Old 09-01-13 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by zvez
ok newbie here, I'm guessing you really don't need the black cap because the valve cap nut is tightened? Guess I better go out to the garage and ditch em.
The way Presta valves are made, they do not allow any sort of dirt or water entry when the valve sealing nut on the end is closed. A cap is not necessary to seal out the elements. This is not the case on Schrader valves with removable valve core. Dirt and moisture can get inside those and cause problems, making the valve cap a necessity.
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Old 09-01-13 | 04:14 PM
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thanks!
Originally Posted by PatrickGSR94
The way Presta valves are made, they do not allow any sort of dirt or water entry when the valve sealing nut on the end is closed. A cap is not necessary to seal out the elements. This is not the case on Schrader valves with removable valve core. Dirt and moisture can get inside those and cause problems, making the valve cap a necessity.
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Old 09-01-13 | 05:00 PM
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If you're going to use valve caps, they have to look cool!

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Old 09-01-13 | 07:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Carbonfiberboy

It's just ordinary tribal behavior. We carry on the traditions of our elders.
:-)
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Old 09-01-13 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by gc3
better yet, get tubes without threads...I know more than one flat caused by tightening that nut down too much...
Regretfully, I've done that twice. Never again.
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