Minimum Seatpost Insertion
#1
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#2
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From: SF Bay Area, East bay
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You can get a longer post.
#3
Thread Starter
Should Be More Popular




Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#4
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From: SF Bay Area, East bay
Bikes: Miyata 618 GT, Marinoni, Kestral 200, Soma double cross 2002 Trek 5200, KHS Flite, Koga Miyata, Schwinn Spitfire 5, Mondia Special, Univega Alpina, Miyata team Ti, Santa Cruz Highball, Waterford rs11
I'd guess there was a reason someone put those marks on there, up to you to see the limits.
#5
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You could move it up a couple mm, and it may ride securely forever. Or, it may prang out of the frame and introduce your scranus and your frame directly.
Get a taller post, they're cheap.
Get a taller post, they're cheap.
#6
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
It is all a matter of your weight and riding style. But who can figure all that? Are you that determined to try your luck at the safety lottery?
#7
Thread Starter
Should Be More Popular




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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#8
Speechless
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From: Central NY
Bikes: Felt Brougham, Lotus Prestige, Cinelli Xperience,
Look at it this way:
Is it worth risking the seat post snapping? Sure, because you will have to buy a different post regardless.
Is it worth getting injured when it snaps? Sure, you just call it a rebuilding year.
Is it worth potentially breaking your new Roubaix frame? No, it is not. After the deliberation and story that went in to it, it is MasterCard priceless at this point.
The minimum insertion reduces the load on both the post and the frame, so I wouldn't cheese it.
Is it worth risking the seat post snapping? Sure, because you will have to buy a different post regardless.
Is it worth getting injured when it snaps? Sure, you just call it a rebuilding year.
Is it worth potentially breaking your new Roubaix frame? No, it is not. After the deliberation and story that went in to it, it is MasterCard priceless at this point.
The minimum insertion reduces the load on both the post and the frame, so I wouldn't cheese it.
#9
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From: Canada, PG BC
Bikes: 27 speed ORYX with over 39,000Kms on it and another 14,000KMs with a BionX E-Assist on it
You need to pay attention to that minimum insertion mark, or you could find out what the maximum insertion could end up to be...
#12
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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#14
Thread Starter
Should Be More Popular




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From: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
#16
pan y agua

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IMHO, it also depends on the frame. If we're talking a conventional tube constructed frame, if the bottom of the post is below the bottom of the top tube, you're likely ok. I rode a steel frame where the minimum insertion mark was just exposed above the frame lug, half the way around ( the lug was curved) for years with no adverse effect.
If the seat tube on your frame sticks up above the top tube, so that you're not getting the seatpost below the top tube, I wouldn't do it. If the seat post still reaches below the tt, you're likely ok.
Realize that the minimum inseertion mark is put on the post to deal with a range of frames. What you actually need for your seatpost, frame interface can varie.
All that said a longer seatpost is cheap.
If the seat tube on your frame sticks up above the top tube, so that you're not getting the seatpost below the top tube, I wouldn't do it. If the seat post still reaches below the tt, you're likely ok.
Realize that the minimum inseertion mark is put on the post to deal with a range of frames. What you actually need for your seatpost, frame interface can varie.
All that said a longer seatpost is cheap.
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You could get lost and die.
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#17
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#18
pan y agua

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From: Jacksonville
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#19
Yeah. The min insertion mark provides adequate strength and safety margin at the max design weight and max design road impact. If you're significantly lighter than the max design weight, you can achieve the same safety margin with the post inserted less the min mark. How much less you can get away with depends on a lot of factors. Agree that at 145 lb, you're likely safe with 5mm less than min insertion.
#20
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Joined: Dec 2009
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From: Houston, TX
Bikes: 1990 Romic Reynolds 531 custom build, Merlin Works CR Ti custom build, super light Workswell 066 custom build
IMHO, it also depends on the frame. If we're talking a conventional tube constructed frame, if the bottom of the post is below the bottom of the top tube, you're likely ok. I rode a steel frame where the minimum insertion mark was just exposed above the frame lug, half the way around ( the lug was curved) for years with no adverse effect.
If the seat tube on your frame sticks up above the top tube, so that you're not getting the seatpost below the top tube, I wouldn't do it. If the seat post still reaches below the tt, you're likely ok.
Realize that the minimum inseertion mark is put on the post to deal with a range of frames. What you actually need for your seatpost, frame interface can varie.
All that said a longer seatpost is cheap.
If the seat tube on your frame sticks up above the top tube, so that you're not getting the seatpost below the top tube, I wouldn't do it. If the seat post still reaches below the tt, you're likely ok.
Realize that the minimum inseertion mark is put on the post to deal with a range of frames. What you actually need for your seatpost, frame interface can varie.
All that said a longer seatpost is cheap.
#21
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Joined: Jun 2003
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How much is left below the "minimum insertion" mark? That will be the important part. If there is a generous amount, then I don't see 5mm making much difference in normal circumstances.
However, having said that, it's not so much the seat post itself, but the frame material, and whether the seat tube is capable of sustaining the leverage that will become more localised than with a large amount inserted.
If it's steel, probably OK. But if it's aluminium or carbon, there may be a risk. With carbon, if there is a reinforcing sleeve of aluminium bonded into the top of the seat tube, you may also be OK.
Then there is the expansion slot. How far does this extend down the seat tube? If a long way, and your seat post doesn't have much meat below the mark, then you might have an issue.
All said and done, 5mm isn't much for the seat post itself, but you will have to assess the effect on the frame.
However, having said that, it's not so much the seat post itself, but the frame material, and whether the seat tube is capable of sustaining the leverage that will become more localised than with a large amount inserted.
If it's steel, probably OK. But if it's aluminium or carbon, there may be a risk. With carbon, if there is a reinforcing sleeve of aluminium bonded into the top of the seat tube, you may also be OK.
Then there is the expansion slot. How far does this extend down the seat tube? If a long way, and your seat post doesn't have much meat below the mark, then you might have an issue.
All said and done, 5mm isn't much for the seat post itself, but you will have to assess the effect on the frame.








